New release Loire white wines: the best from 2019 and 2020

These are happy days in the Loire. 2020 is the seventh successive good to very good vintage in the region, with this series starting in 2014.

The Loire has never experienced such a run of good vintages. The last poor vintage was 2013, which was hampered by a very cold spring leading to a late flowering in the latter part of June. 

Frost-free vintage

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic the 2020 vintage posed particular challenges as workers had to be socially distanced.

Fortunately late winter and early March were wet, building up reserves. During the March to May lockdown the weather was dry and sunny with no spring frosts, making 2020 along with 2018 the only two frost-free vintages in the last five.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 35 new-release Loire white wines

Apart from the occasional heat spike, the 2020 harvest was an ‘easy’ and early one, with picking beginning for the early-ripening grape varieties in late August. Yields overall were normal, so replenishing cellars after the frost-affected 2019.

Early September was very hot with temperatures over 30˚C, meaning that sugar levels climbed rapidly. Many producers picked early in the morning to preserve freshness and aromas.  

Picking decisions

There was a time when it was a struggle to pick ripe fruit. However, in the last few years it has been a struggle to avoid over-ripeness and high degrees.

In 2020 there are successes along the whole of the Loire. Picking at the right time is essential, so as to avoid dry whites at 14.5% or more ending up with heavy, over-alcoholic wines. In hot vintages the optimum picking window is short.

The brilliant 2019s from Domaine de la Taille aux Loups in Montlouis show the importance of getting this right. 

Top Loire white wine producers in 2020:

• Alphonse Mellot (Sancerre)
• Château de Villeneuve (Saumur)
• Domaine de la Taille aux Loups (Montlouis)
• Domaine des Forges (Anjou)
• Domaine Luneau-Papin (Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine)

Generous crop

Ivan Massonnat of Domaine Belargus in Anjou is delighted with 2020, especially as he was hit hard by frost in 2019: ‘Nature has spoiled us. At each stage, she brought us exactly what the vines needed, even affording herself the luxury of respecting the seasons! Plentiful water in the spring, dry and hot weather in the summer and even some saving rains before a harvest … made under full sun. In the end, we got a vintage whose keyword will undoubtedly be balance. Successor of the tiny – but no less great – 2019 vintage, this fresh and crunchy new vintage gave us, what is more, the pleasure of refilling our stores, from cellar to attic!’

Balanced and fresh

François Lieubeau reports from Muscadet: ‘We began harvesting on 26 August, which was the earliest day allowed by the Muscadet appellation. It was one of the earliest starts in recent decades, but a few days later than in the heatwave of 2003. However, the 2020 vintage is very different to 2003. It is far more balanced, with less alcohol and more freshness, since temperatures and rainfall remained average during the ripening stage. This is an extremely balanced vintage that shows finesse and elegance, in the classic Muscadet style.’

Well-balanced 2020 dry whites should age very well, for at least 10-15 years.  

Loire vintages at a glance

2020: Fortunately frost free, a successful and very early vintage across the Loire for both red and white. (5/5)

2019: Another frost affected vintage, especially to the west of Tours, due to a frost very early in April. Despite hot, dry conditions, some beautifully balanced wines were made. (5/5)

2018: Hailed as a great vintage, giving both quality and quantity – above average yields. Certainly some lovely wines, especially reds and sweet whites, but high levels of alcohol were a problem in some wines. (4/5)

2017: A second year hit with a series of April frosts, but not quite as devastating as 2016. Wines have excellent balance and finesse. (4/5)

2016: Badly frost-affected year with a series of April frosts reducing many producers’ harvest to 20% or less of normal. Once again Sancerre was spared. Good quality for the crop that remained. (4/5)

Looking ahead, 2021 – with its cold spring, succession of spring frosts and devastating local hailstorms – may see the end of this series of good vintages. Let’s hope not! 

35 new-release Loire white wines

In A-Z appellation order

Anjou Blanc

89 Philippe Socheleau, Domaine des Deux Vallées Clos de la Casse 2019

Côteaux du Giennois

92 Clément & Florian Berthier Terre de Silex Coteaux du Giennois 2019

86 Domaine de Villargeau Coteaux du Giennois 2020

IGP Urfé

88 Domaine des Pothiers Pinot Gris – Hors Pistes IGP Urfé 2019

Menetou-Salon

91 Bertrand Minchin Morogues Menetou-Salon 2020

88 Jean-Max Roger Le Clocher d’Amelie Menetou-Salon 2020

88 Marie and Joseph de Maistre, Le Prieuré de Saint-Cérols Menetou-Salon 2019

Montlouis-sur-Loire

97 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Clos Michet Montlouis-sur-Loire 2019

Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine

92 Jérémie Huchet Chemin des Prières Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine 2019

94 Domaine Luneau-Papin Clos des Allées Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2019

90 Château du Cléray, Grands Chais de France Haute Culture de Sauvion Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2019

90 Famille Lieubeau Confluent Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2019

88 Château la Morinière Vieilles Vignes Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2019

Pouilly-Fumé

92 André et Edmond Figeat, Domaine Figeat Les Craies, Pouilly-Fumé 2020

91 Domaine Eric Crochet Pouilly-Fumé 2020

91 Domaine Alain Cailbourdin Boisfleury/ Pouilly-Fumé 2019

90 Domaine Marchand & Fils Les Kérots, Pouilly-Fumé 2020

90 Caves de Pouilly La Bergerie/ Pouilly-Fumé 2020

89 Domaine Alain Cailbourdin Les Cris, Pouilly-Fumé 2019

88 Pascal Jolivet Blanc Fumé, Pouilly-Fumé 2020

Reuilly

89 Domaine Claude Lafond Nathalie, Reuilly 2020

Sancerre

95 Vincent Pinard Florès Sancerre 2019

92 Alphonse Mellot La Moussière Sancerre 2020

91 Anthony & David Girard Les Monts Damnés Sancerre 2019

89 Cave de Sancerre Les Châtaigniers Sancerre 2020

Saumur

89 Domaine la Bonnelière Saumur – Tradition Saumur 2020

89 Château de Villeneuve Saumur 2020

Savennières

94 Stéphane & Séverine Branchereau, Domaine des Forges Savennières (La-Roche-aux-Moines) 2019

Touraine

88 Domaine Paul Buisse Touraine 2020

Vin de France

94 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Bretonnière, Cuvée Parcellaire Monopole Vin de France 2020

92 Couly-Dutheil Blanc de Franc Vin de France 2019

91 Louis-Egard de Pineux, Château de Bonnezeaux Frimas Vin de France 2019

87 Famille Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Vin de France 2019

Vouvray

93 Domaine Alain Robert Vouvray Sec Ammonite Vouvray 2019

91 Domaine d’Orfeuilles Silex d’Orfeuilles Vouvray 2019

91 Château Gaudrelle Réserve Spéciale Vouvray 2020

Loire white wines: 35 great buys from the 2019 & 2020 vintages

Wines have been listed in score order 

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