New Zealand whites: 2018 vintage report

Thanks to one of the hottest summers in New Zealand's history, there is a clear vintage expression across both the reds and whites from 2018 says Rebecca Gibb MW, who reports on the weather conditions across the country and selects her top white wines from recent tastings…

Triathletes clad in neoprene return to the open waters of New Zealand’s coast each November donning a couple of swimming hats to avoid ice-cream headaches, but in late 2017 the waters were so unseasonably warm even the wetsuits could be comfortably ditched in favour of a pair of budgie smugglers.

Scroll down for Rebecca Gibb MW’s top New Zealand white wines from 2018

It wasn’t the swimmers’ imagination. A so-called marine heatwave meant that water temperatures were between 2 and 4°C above average and this was the main driver behind the hottest summer in New Zealand since records began in 1909. Temperatures across New Zealand were 2.1˚C higher than the 30-year average (1981-2010), pushing the balmy summer of 1934/35 out of the record books. The heatwave began in November, which is not technically summer in New Zealand. In Central Otago’s Cromwell, there were 23 consecutive days above 25˚C up to 10 December.

And the crazy barbecue weather kept on coming. Hot and dry weather – Auckland received just 9% of its average rainfall in December – meant vines successfully flowered and there was an abundant crop ready to ripen early: on the eve of 2018, the vines were tracking 10-14 days ahead of their ‘usual’ schedule.

But weather can be unpredictable when you’re a remote island at the bottom of the world and February brought the remnants of two tropical cyclones. The first, named Fehi (1 February), broke the heatwave. Felton Road’s owner Nigel Greening says: ‘2018 was bewildering: if we had not had the cyclone come through and break the heatwave, we would have been in deep [trouble].’

That said, many Central Otago growers report it was their earliest-ever harvest. Amisfield picked its Riesling on 5 March – three weeks earlier than normal. Winemaker Stephanie Lambert says: ‘2018 epitomised Central Otago’s unpredictability more than ever. It was hot, it was cold, we were worried about sunburn, lack of sun, lack of wine, low acidity, disease, lack of flavour, it had it all for us.’

Meanwhile, cyclone Gita (20 February) dropped 300% of the South Island’s monthly rainfall in just 18 hours. While the North Island’s wine regions of Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne and Wairarapa dodged the worst of Gita’s wrath, the country’s most prolific region, Marlborough, was affected. For the early ripeners this caused a few headaches but the Sauvignon Blanc berries were still tough at this stage.

Vintners were on high alert for botrytis with high humidity and the February deluge. Picking was delayed until March but the temperatures remained high: the average temperature in Marlborough in March was 22.3˚C compared with 16.3˚C in March 2017. Nights were unseasonably warm.

The cyclones also affected the crop level. At 419,000 tonnes, 2018 is the fourth-largest harvest on record but it is well below initial expectations. In the glass, you can expect Sauvignon Blancs with ripe flavour expression, broader palate weight, gentler acidity and immediate accessibility. Vintners report that Pinot Noir is flavoursome and lush with lower acidity and alcohols nudging 14% and beyond.

Will it be a great year? It is difficult to say at this early stage but they will show a clear vintage expression when compared with the far cooler 2017 season.

Rebecca Gibb MW’s top New Zealand white wines from 2018

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