Pelaverga Verduno: Piedmont’s hidden treasure
The hills around the commune of Verduno are home to a rare grape, made into wine by some of Piedmont's most notable producers...
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Pelaverga is one of those rarities that, regardless of taste, trying it for the first time is a special treat.
Very little wine is produced from the 18ha that make up Pelaverga Verduno. One of Italy’s smallest DOCs, it only produced around 13,000 cases in 2017. Verduno and the Colline Saluzzesi DOC in Cuneo are the only locations this indigenous red variety can be found.The Pelaverga Verduno DOC, granted in 1995, covers the town of Verduno and extends to parts of neighbouring Roddi and La Morra.
The grape’s history dates back centuries. Traditionally, it would be co-planted and co-blended with the region’s other red varieties and it took until 1972 for a dedicated Pelaverga vineyard to be planted, by Castello di Verduno.
Only a handful of producers continue to nurture these vines, which isn’t a surprise considering how much Nebbiolo grown here is worth. But their dedication is rewarded with some special wines: upon tasting, it’s clear that these obscure reds are bustling with intensity, energy, acidity and, most of all, fragrance. Not just scents of red fruits, but of black pepper and even Angostura bitters in the case of GB Burlotto’s impressive bottling. The mouthfeel is light-to-medium-bodied, soft and textured, the fruit flavours have surprising intensity and the tannins are minimal, giving just enough structure to make it a good food wine. And, like other light reds, you can even chill this down.
Pelaverga can’t be compared to anything else out there, although at a push you could say it combines the best qualities of cru Beaujolais, Italian Frappato and German Spätburgunder.
Pelaverga: Factbox
First dedicated vineyard planted in 1972
Pelaverga Verduno DOC granted in 1995
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18ha planted in Verduno, Roddi & La Morra
Five Pelaverga wines to try:
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Fratelli Alessandria, Speziale Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Fratelli Alessandria own 12ha across the communes of Monforte and Verduno, however it only grows Pelaverga in its Verduno vineyards at between 250 and 400...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Fratelli AlessandriaVerduno
GB Burlotto, Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

GB Burlotto has grown the rare Pelaverga grape in Verduno since the 1800s. This 2018 displays a hint of the estate's incredible Barolo Monvigliero perfume...
2018
PiedmontItaly
GB BurlottoVerduno
Castello di Verduno, Basadone, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

From vineyards planted in Massara and Olmi in Verduno totalling around 1.6ha on white limestone soils, this Pelaverga is aged for nine months in stainless...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Castello di VerdunoVerduno
Poderi Roset, Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

From a small southwest-facing plot of 0.51ha, this wine is aged in stainless steel for eight months then in bottle for up to four months....
2018
PiedmontItaly
Poderi RosetVerduno
Diego Morra, Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Diego Morra's Pelaverga comes from a small south- southeast-facing vineyard at 250 to 300 metres above seal level. It has a bright strawberry aroma with...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Diego MorraVerduno

James Button is Decanter’s regional editor for Italy, responsible for all of Decanter's Italian content in print and online.
Like many others, he started his wine career at Majestic Wine, giving him a strong grounding in the subject before successfully completing the WSET Level 4 Diploma in 2010. From 2014 to 2016 he managed the fine wine department of a startup wine company in London, before joining Decanter as digital sub-editor.
Outside of wine, James enjoys cooking, skiing, playing guitar and cycling.