Progressive Bordeaux: 20 Fronsac wines worth seeking out
It may not be the first Bordeaux appellation that springs to mind but in terms of quality and affordability it's right up there, says Stephen Brook, who picks out 20 top buys worth seeking out.
Sadly, few Bordeaux wine aficionados will be able to tell you where Fronsac lies.
It wasn’t always thus. From the 17th century onwards, its wines were highly valued, and the grand mansions along the Dordogne shore still testify to that.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 20 top Fronsac wines worth seeking out
There were undoubtedly problems until quite recently. When, as so often, the vines were picked too early, the wines were harsh and tannic.
But a new generation, supported by a phalanx of outside investors, mostly from China, has corrected the errors of the past, and the wines are riper and fleshier.
Renowned consultant Michel Rolland owns a property here, Fontenil, which helps to validate the region. At other estates, Stéphane Derenoncourt is often the consultant of choice.
This is a progressive region today, with up to 20% of vineyards farmed either organically or biodynamically.
The region has divided itself into two subzones: Canon-Fronsac (220 ha) and Fronsac (791 ha).
Canon-Fronsac had the historical reputation, but today the two AOCs are just about indistinguishable. They share the same fundamental soil type, molasses de Fronsadais, a bedrock of limestone, clay and sandstone, and both have average plantings of 78% Merlot.
It’s a landscape of differing slopes and exposition and elevations, which can contribute to the character of individual estates.
Yet perhaps the pendulum has swung too far. Especially in hot years such as 2018, there can be some overripe and extracted wines that lack some freshness.
Even so, modern Fronsac is a welcome contrast to the dry leathery wines of 30 years ago and an excess of ripe fruit is surely preferable to astringency and harsh tannins.
At its best, Fronsac offers high quality at a very sensible price.
Extract from Jane Anson’s Fronsac & Canon Fronsac 2019 en primeur report
There are some real successes in these appellations, often competing with St-Emilion but at far better prices.
The rise of Malbec shows no signs of abating, and I lost count of the number of wines that had the addition of that spicy, dark skinned grape in the blend; something that has been true for a number of years in the Côtes but is now increasingly notable in Lalande-de-Pomerol, the St-Emilion satellites and also Fronsac.
It is hard to separate the top scorers and value picks in these appellation, and so often they are both, but I would point to La Vieille Cure in Fronsac as one of the value picks of the vintage, up at the magic 94-point mark.
There are also a lot of brilliant 93-point wines, particularly among these smaller appellations, which is a clear signal for great wine at great prices.
Top scoring Fronsac 2019 wines – all of which are good value
- Moulin-Haut Laroque
- Les Trois Croix
- La Vieille Cure
- La Dauphine
- Canon-Pécresse
- Tessendey
See 20 top Fronsac wines worth seeking out
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Château Moulin Haut-Laroque, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Jean-Noel Herve's meticulously run 16-hectare estate has long been of the leaders of the appellation. There are ample black fruits on the nose, which is...
2018
Château Moulin Haut-LaroqueFronsac
Château de La Dauphine, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2016
This is probably the best wine ever produced at La Dauphine, loaded with brambly fruits and softly-spun minerality, taking it into the top tier of...
2016
Château de La DauphineFronsac
Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2012
92
Gaby has been through many changes of ownership recently, and the owner since 2016 is American Thomas Sullivan. I find recent vintages porty and unbalanced, but this 2012 is impressive. There are dense black fruits on the nose, while the palate is rich and suave, with ample concentration, fine-grained tannins, and impressive density of fruit. Oaky, spicy, and complex, it has a long, zesty, harmonious finish.
2012
Château GabyCanon-Fronsac
Château Grand Renouil, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2016
Helene Ponty manages this 5.5-hectare family estate, which dates back to the 18th century. The nose displays rich plum and black cherry fruit, but with...
2016
Château Grand RenouilCanon-Fronsac
Chateau Vrai Canon Bouché, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
This is a little bit overpowering with tannins that are firm and sneaky, but there’s no question that it’s enjoyable with a good depth and...
2018
Chateau Vrai Canon BouchéCanon-Fronsac
Château Tessendey, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Tessendey is owned by the Arfeuille family, who also own the fine St-Emilion property of La Serre. The wine shows a welcome light touch, with...
2018
Château TessendeyFronsac
Château Magondeau, Beau Site, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2016
Three cuvées are produced by this 18-hectare property and this one is aged in one-third new barriques. There's abundant black cherry fruit on the nose,...
2016
Château MagondeauFronsac
Château Canon Pécresse, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Stephane Derenoncourt is the consultant at this small 4.5-hectare estate, which was certified organic in 2020. This is a forward style, with ripe, juicy, black...
2018
Château Canon PécresseCanon-Fronsac
Château du Pavillon, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2016
Like Grand Renouil, this is owned by the Ponty family. It's a small but beautifully located hillside property. The nose displays super-ripe cherry fruit that's...
2016
Château du PavillonCanon-Fronsac
Château de Carles, Haut-Carles, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
An exquisite Renaissance manor house is at the heart of this 18-hectare estate, which is farmed organically but not certified. This is the prestige...
2018
Château de CarlesFronsac
Château de La Rivière, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
The nose is spicy and vibrant on the nose, while the palate is suave and luxurious, with concentrated and opulent fruit. Quite long.
2018
Château de La RivièreFronsac
Château Renard Mondesir, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
This medium-sized property is now beginning its conversion to organic farming, which is becoming increasingly common in Fronsac. There are very ripe and oaky blackberry...
2018
Château Renard MondesirFronsac
Château La Rousselle, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
In 2018 Belgian Enzo Ide became the latest owner of this small estate, where Stephane Derenoncourt acts as consultant. Black cherry fruit dominates the nose,...
2018
Château La RousselleFronsac
Château Roche de Ferrand, Grande Selection, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Despite the imposing name this is the sole wine of this 3-hectare estate. The grapes are picked by machine. There's very ripe cherry fruit on...
2018
Château Roche de FerrandFronsac
Château La Valade, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Although La Valade produce a luxury cuvée aged in new oak, there is much to enjoy in this more basic version. There are lush black...
2018
Château La ValadeFronsac
Château Richelieu, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Once the property of the celebrated cardinal, Richelieu is now owned by a Hong Kong corporation that has invested substantially.The nose is reticent, with black...
2018
Château RichelieuFronsac
Château Fontenil, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
This is good quality, it'll take its time to come around and not as seductive as some in the vintage, but this is a lovely...
2018
Château FontenilFronsac
Château Barrabaque, Prestige, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
Barrabaque produce four wines from the region and this is their mid-range offering, which is aged in one-third new oak. The nose is a boutique...
2018
Château BarrabaqueCanon-Fronsac
Château de la Huste, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
This is highly perfumed, the autumnal fruits clearly well ripened and given room to move even though the tannins are full. It's tight right now,...
2018
Château de la HusteFronsac
Château George 7, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2018
This is a new one-woman start-up in the top village of Saillans by Englishwoman Sally Evans. The wine is partly barrel-fermented. The nose is sweet,...
2018
Château George 7Fronsac
