Provence rosé: This summer’s best buys
Elizabeth Gabay MW picks 30 of her favourite Provence rosés from the 2024 vintage, finding plenty of classic character but also a growing number of producers making small experiments.
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The main challenges of this year’s rosé tasting appear to have been balancing climate change’s increasingly hotter and drier summers with consumer demand for lower alcohol and white wine.
2024 in Provence included a relatively wet spring, and a rather hot summer, but winemakers seem to agree that it was, overall, a good vintage.
Generally, the quality was good, with scores clumping around 88-89.
Provence seems to be a safe bet, with homogeneous style and consistent quality.
Scroll down for Elizabeth Gabay MW’s top Provence rosé picks
This seems to be the major strength of the region, especially the gap between mid-range and premium seems to be narrowing.
The famous names are good, but the gap is narrowing. There are now many newcomers or lesser-known producers making excellent rosé in similar styles, often at very competitive prices.
Holidaying in Provence? See our travel guide here
Paler than ever
More than ever before, the 2024 rosés were extremely pale, verging on the white with a tinge of pink.
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A number of wines showed evidence that they were harvested early to retain fresh acidity, the pale colour, and achieve lower alcohol, but this unripe fruit often resulted in green, acidic wines lacking in charm or character.
The best embraced riper fruit, albeit with a touch more alcohol at around 13.5%, sometimes with a touch more colour, and increasingly including some older vintages.
Oak-aged rosés, once outliers, are now a staple in the range of many, if not most, Provence rosé producers.
But, what was once a singular category of ‘oaked rosé’ is now a range of styles and choices, ranging from almost imperceptible to deep, complex, and age-worthy.
Oak is no longer the main indicator of premium quality rosé, even if many of the very best did spend some time in barrel.
Adventurous styles emerging
Just being pale pink is no longer the prime consideration when buying rosé, particularly for younger, more adventurous consumers.
Even in Provence, there are plenty of wines for those happy to embrace darker colours and more adventurous styles.
It was exciting to see a growing amount of diversity in winemaking, ranging from reductive fresh and fruity wines to rosés in oak, amphora and eggs as well as different varieties, such as Viognier and Muscat, contributing further to the range of different styles.
These aromatic varieties worked best when carefully handled and not used as a substitute for fruit in more unripe wines.
Terroir conversation
With increased conversation recently about the different terroirs around Provence, the higher quality rosés often stood out for their use of local grape varieties and their regional expression, working with terroir rather than against it.
Bandol again stands out for its structured, concentrated Mourvèdre-heavy rosés, most of which do justify their slightly higher price tags.
The Côtes de Provence sub-appellations (La Londe, Sainte Victoire, Fréjus, Pierrefeu and Notre-Dame-des-Anges) are still good options for slightly higher quality rosé, with Notre-Dame-des-Anges standing out this year.
The Luberon is a good place to look in 2025 for some really excellent value-for-money, especially from slightly fuller-bodied, more concentrated wines than the pale delicacy found elsewhere in Provence this vintage.
With such a large region, the scope for a variety of styles is large. This also highlights a divide in the range of wines being produced.
The majority of rosés conformed to the classic Provence blueprint in various degrees of success: dry, mineral, delicate peach and redcurrant fruit and fresh acidity.
As ‘Provence-style’ is adopted ever more widely across the world, Provençal producers need to do more to emphasise local terroirs, and move away from the lowest common denominator of pale colour.
Elizabeth Gabay MW’s top Provence rosés to seek out:
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Bastide de Fave, Reserve dy Prieure, Coteaux Varois en Provence, Provence, France, 2022

<p>Aged in Caucasian oak with its softer tannins. Pale gold. White citrus, grapefruit and oak on the nose, with more tropical notes as the wine...
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Château de Pibarnon, Nuances, Bandol, Provence, France, 2021

<p>This is 95% Mourvèdre, from old vines on a single parcel of late-ripening fruit. Fermented with indigenous yeast, in stoneware jars to achieve tension and...
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Clos Cibonne, Cuvée des Vignettes, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2023

<p>Pale copper with restrained aromas of thyme flowers and wild fennel. On the palate, this restraint opens up to an explosion of ripe stone fruit,...
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Château Les Mesclances, Cuvée St Honorat, Côtes de Provence, La Londe, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>The region of La Londe lies along the southern schistous slopes of the Massif des Maures and down to the sandier soils along the coast....
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Bomont de Cormeil, Coteaux du Verdon, IGP Var, Provence, France, 2024

<p>From probably one of the coolest, most northerly vineyards in Provence, Tom Bove was inspired by the northern Rhône when he planted Syrah and Viognier....
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Château Angueiroun, Enkhelis, Côtes de Provence, La Londe, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>Oxidative winemaking and ageing in resin eggs has made this gloriously rich rosé from the hot maritime region of La Londe. Creamy gold white, with...
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Château Cavalier, Grand Cavalier, Côtes de Provence, Notre Dame des Anges, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2023

<p>From the hot central valley along the northern slopes of the Massif des Maures, the fruit from this region has a round soft ripeness, ideal...
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Château CavalierCôtes de Provence
Château d’Esclans, Les Clans, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2023

<p>This is quite a powerful rosé that should not be drunk fresh from the fridge; it definitely benefits from decanting when drunk young. Pale pink...
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Château d’EsclansCôtes de Provence
Domaine Alône, Rosé, Vin de France, Provence, France, 2023

<p>From a new estate with vineyards hidden in the forests on the western slopes of the Massif St Baume, Christian Ott is crafting precision rosés...
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Domaine La Courtade, La Courtade Rosé, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>From one of two estates on the island of Porquerolle, and heavily influenced by the hot maritime climate moderated by sea breezes, this rosé almost...
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Domaine Le Songe du Don Bosco, Amorevolezza, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2023

<p>From the southern reaches of the region of Pierrefeu, touching the northern limits of La Londe, the Mourvèdre achieves good ripeness tempered by the softness...
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Domaine Le Songe du Don BoscoCôtes de Provence
Château Gassier, Elevae, Côtes de Provence, Ste-Victoire, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2019

<p>Vinification and long ageing in barrels (24 months in Stockinger demi-muids) has created this mellowed rich rosé from a great vintage. Pale creamy gold with...
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Domaine la Suffrène, Ste Catherine, Bandol, Provence, France, 2019

<p>Mourvèdre-heavy Bandol rosés thrive with maturity and decanting. This wine, from a single parcel of old vines, is no exception and will only continue to...
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Domaine la SuffrèneBandol
Château Paquette, Thémis, Côtes de Provence, Fréjus, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2023

<p>Jerome Paquette uses the softness of Tibouren, essential in the Fréjus region, to moderate the structured character of the Mourvèdre. Soft golden pink. Delicate aromas...
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Domaine La Tourraque, Muscal, Vin de France, Provence, France, 2024

<p>Clement Brun has a joyous irreverence in the creation of this rosé from St Tropez. Caladoc is often used to create crunchy red fruit freshness...
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Domaine La TourraqueVin de France
Domaines Ott, Clos Mireille, Côtes de Provence, Cru Classé, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>There is an Ott signature for all of their rosés, creating elegant silky wines with subtle differences reflecting the terroir of each estate. This one,...
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Domaines OttCôtes de Provence
Myrko Tepus, Dai! Solera, Vin de France, Provence, France

<p>Provence has long been devoid of many natural wines, but this is slowly changing and the 'new kid on the block', Myrko Tepus, located in...
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Barton & Guestier, Tourmaline, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>Primarily Grenache and Cinsault but also containing small percentages of six other varieties, sourced from hot vineyards on the lower slopes of the Massif des...
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Barton & GuestierCôtes de Provence
Château de Berne, Organic Rosé, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>From a higher-altitude, cooler plateau in central Provence, comes this wine which is very much a benchmark Provence rosé. A pale salmon pink with a...
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Château de BerneCôtes de Provence
Château de Galoupet, G de Galoupet, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>An impressive junior partner to Chateau Galoupet’s premium rosé, with the added eco-friendly bottle made from 85% dark recycled glass, weighing only 300g. Very pale...
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Château la Mascaronne, Rosé, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>From the cool uplands and some-north facing slopes in central Provence comes this elegant rosé, showing some of the characteristic delicacy of the 2024 vintage...
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Château Saint-Esprit, Céleste, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024
<p>The entry-level rosé from an estate consistently exploring the best expression of their terroir in every vintage, this is a beautiful expression of what a...
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Château Saint-EspritCôtes de Provence
Château Vignelaure, Rosé, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>The difficulties of the 2024 vintage meant Philippe Bru had to juggle the grapes available to him and led to a slightly higher proportion of...
2024
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Château VignelaureCoteaux d'Aix en Provence
Mas St-Berthe, La Chapelle, Les Baux de Provence, Provence, France, 2023

<p>A very traditional style with riper, more full-bodied fruit that maybe has more in common with the weightier rosés of Tavel than its more pale...
2023
ProvenceFrance
Mas St-BertheLes Baux de Provence
Terres Ailées de Maitres Vigneron de Gonfaron, Les Montauds, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>From the eastern edge of the Massif des Maures, this is one of a collection of excellent rosés reflecting the different terroirs found in members'...
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Maison St Aix, Rosé, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>This rosé stood out for its exuberant fruity charm. From the cool northern reaches of Coteaux d’Aix, comes this very pale creamy white pink. Fragrant...
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Maison St AixCoteaux d'Aix en Provence
Artesans, Domaine du Moulin de Verdillon, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

89
<p>From a new merger of two cooperatives in central Provence. Creamy water white. Pretty floral grapefruit on the nose, some punchy red berries and aromatic peach aromas. Delicate, refreshing zesty, clean crunchy red fruit, a faint saline twist and bright orange citrus on the finish, with a firm mineral backbone and long fresh acidity. Great balance of citrus and red fruit, bright acidity, nice phenolic weight and good intensity. Exactly what you should be looking for from Provence rosé. It's not aiming at complexity or age-worthiness, but is pretty and energetic.</p>
2024
ProvenceFrance
ArtesansCôtes de Provence
Château de Sannes, 1603, Luberon, Rhône, France, 2023

<p>This is the entry-level rosé from this Chateau, just across the Durance river from Vignelaure and AIX. Very perfumed white florals. Pale creamy gold pink....
2023
RhôneFrance
Château de SannesLuberon
Château Maïme, Heritage, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2024

<p>From a family estate in the central valley in the heart of the Var, come this classic Grenache-based Provence rosé. Pale salmon pink with restrained...
2024
ProvenceFrance
Château MaïmeCôtes de Provence

Elizabeth Gabay MW has specialised in the wines of south-eastern France and Hungary since the 1980’s. Working as an independent wine merchant and consultant, she graduated as a Master of Wine in 1998 and moved to southeast France in 2002.
Her book, Rose: Understanding the pink wine revolution, was published in 2018 and she has continued to write about and judge rosé wines for Decanter.
Aside from Decanter, she has written for Drinks Business, Harpers, The Wine Merchant, VinCE and Nomacorc.
She is the lead instructor for the Provence immersion course run by the French Wine Society and she has judged at numerous Decanter World Wine Awards since 2007.