Best rosé wines beyond Provence

Exploring different types of rosé wine can be daunting. The belief that dark rosé means cheap and sweet is still widely repeated, followed by the claim that rosé has to be drunk young and fresh because it does not age. Despite both claims being repeatedly disproved, any rosé which dares to be different is regarded as difficult and unusual. For producers it can be depressing as they attempt to compete against the marketing success of Provence and Provence-style wines. Scroll down to see 20 top rosés from around the world [subscriber-content] A wealth of choice and style Tasting rosés from around the world can reveal a splendid range of exciting wines, often with the history to prove they are not simply jumping on the bandwagon of Provence's success. Many have benefited from advances in winemaking knowledge and technology. Today, these wines can range from Provence-style imitators, to fruity, fresh and vibrant wines, to darker, fuller-bodied styles, and to textural rosés that use oak and complex vinification techniques. Unsurprisingly, the combination of terroir, grape varieties and vinification are the key factors in determining the different styles. The vast majority of rosés are made in much the same way: harvested a little earlier than the red wines, chilled, gently pressed, and steel tank-fermented. Cooler fermentation temperatures and a particular choice of yeasts determine a fruitier character, while more complexity can arise from warmer fermentation temperatures (18C and over). Bottling is often immediate, but a few months on the lees with varying amounts of batonnage will impart a soft roundness to the wine. Exploring different styles of rosé Outside of Provence, rosé comes in a multitude of styles and can be made from a number of different grape varieties: The Provence style is often erroneously attributed to pale colour and dryness without understanding what makes good Provence rosés so attractive. The ripe fruit of southern France gives fruity weight and a silky softness, while relatively early harvesting keeps the acidity fresh without unripe green notes. The pale, peachy colour is due more to light-skinned grapes ( Cinsault and Grenache ) and a healthy proportion of white varieties, than it is to simply using unripe grapes or gentle extraction. Achieving that combination of fruit, freshness and delicacy is no mean feat. Blends based on Cinsault and Grenache are common throughout the south of France, including the Rhône and the Languedoc-Roussillon . Nearby Corsica also makes rosé using the similarly pale Niellucciu ( Sangiovese ) and Sciaccarellu varieties. Gamay and Pinot Noir readily make fashionably pale, often pinker rosés without making sacrifices for the sake of colour, as does Nebbiolo in northern Italy. Bordeaux varieties are quite common, lending more colour to the wine and offering crunchy fruit. Indigenous varieties from hotter regions are proving to be useful to combat climate change with their ability to retain freshness in hot weather. Agiorgitiko and the aromatic Moschofilero from Greece and Niellucciu from Corsica are now permitted in small quantities in Côtes de Provence, and Tinta Cão from the Douro can even be found in Israel. This all creates great diversity and a new generation of different fruit profiles. Is Portuguese rosé the next big thing?

The dark horse The vibrant pink and cherry red colour of some rosés usually comes from longer skin maceration. This is accompanied by more robust flavours, increased texture and more complexity – not to mention ageing potential. Tavel is particularly famous for this style. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo , in central Italy, is another appellation which focuses on longer skin maceration, and Rosé des Riceys is a darker, semi-carbonic maceration rosé from southern Champagne . Get to know a darker style of rosé wine

Other interesting styles More oxidative winemaking can make for richer and more complex rosé. Oak-aged rosé is not limited to Provence, although the use of oak does not guarantee a premium wine if it otherwise lacks extraction, ripeness and body. When done well, oak-aged rosés are worth looking out for. Famous examples include high-altitude Reserva and Gran Reserva Rioja rosés (perhaps most famously the Viña Tondonia rosé from R López de Heredia ), and Gerard Bertrand’s Clos du Temple in the Languedoc. The use of amphora and cement is also increasing, giving texture without losing the fruit freshness. Sweet or off-dry rosés should not be dismissed too quickly either. The sweet wines of the Loire contribute to the diversity of what rosé can offer. Rosé d’Anjou is softly sweet, usually with 7-10g/L residual sugar, while Cabernet d’Anjou has over 10g/L with no upper limit. The balance of sweetness, acidity and lower alcohol levels make them remarkably good matches for a range of foods. The good news is that despite the growth in Provence-style rosés, there is also a growing number of exciting and different approaches to rosé just waiting to be discovered. [breakout] Top tips for buying rosé When it comes to drier rosés, be careful of suspiciously low-alcohol levels. This can indicate unripeness. The wines may have crunchy acidity, but the silky ripeness, like that present in Provence rosé, is rarely found under 13% alcohol in warm climates. Don’t be afraid of dark rosés. They can indicate a wine with great character which can double up as a light summer red. With so many different styles to choose from, rosé wines can make excellent matches for a range of dishes. For example, the sweet Loire rosés pair well with melon and parma ham, goat's cheese salad, and it's one of the few wines that goes well with tomatoes. [/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Elizabeth Gabay MW's 20 top rosés from around the world: [wine-collection] Related articles Provence rosé: this summer’s best buys Best rosé wines: 20 under £20 to try First taste: Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009 Discovering the 'micro crus' of Provence plus 12 wines to seek out