Quinta do Noval: a decade of declarations
Famed for its Nacional bottlings, Quinta do Noval is a jewel in Portugal’s Douro Valley. Richard Mayson gives an overview of this iconic Port producer and rates wines from a recent vertical tasting of releases from 2010-2020.
The 2020 vintage marks the 10th Port declaration in a row for Quinta do Noval. This emblematic and highly visible estate in the Pinhão Valley has always taken a somewhat idiosyncratic approach to vintage Port.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for a decade of Quinta do Noval releases
For example, it was one very few houses to declare the 1931 vintage at a time when there seemed to be no market for the wine. The Noval 1931 has subsequently gained legendary status. Indeed I can vouch for this, having tasted the wine last year and been taken aback by its enduring tannic grip, extraordinary length and pizazz.
Noval continued to do its own thing through the 1970s and 1980s when the quality of the wines from this magnificent property sadly fell somewhat below par. It was rescued by AXA Millésimes in 1993 when Christian Seely took charge and spent the next decade ‘putting things right’ to use his own words.
With money to invest, the vineyard was largely replanted and the winemaking thoroughly overhauled. Continuity was maintained by the technical director, António Agrellos, who retired after 24 years at the end of 2017 to be succeeded by his nephew Carlos.
Estates and terroir
Noval now extends to over 180ha and spills over from the Pinhão Valley to neighbouring Roncão, both tributaries of the Douro. Nicknamed ‘roasted Roncão’ because of the intense heat, Seely points out that these two very different terroirs now contribute to the vintage blend with Roncão having ‘harder schist’ than Pinhão (‘just in case you thought all schist was the same’).
In 2018 Noval bought up Quinta do Passadouro, a contiguous estate in the Pinhão Valley which will continue to produce its own Ports and red wines.
The altitude of the estate now extends from 100m above sea level to 500m. The diversity of grape varieties (mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and Tinto Cão), exposures and altitudes means that in most years picking will take place over six weeks or more, starting in late August for the white grapes.
In 2020 however the harvest was compressed into just over three weeks as all the different varieties seemed to ripen together which tested the capacity of the winery, mid-pandemic.
Quality and quantity
Looking back over the decade, the 2010s have been remarkable for Port. Shippers were spoilt for choice and some declared an unprecedented three years in a row. Noval has done it differently, declaring a wine every year from the outstanding (and universally declared) 2011 vintage onwards. When challenged, Seely says the wines speak for themselves.
‘Which of these do you think is not worthy of declaration? I wouldn’t have declared if I didn’t think the wine justified it,’ he says. He adds that ‘vintage Port is a maximum of 15% of the total production of Noval’ with quantities varying over the last decade from 6,000 9-litre cases in 2016 to just 700 in 2014. In that year the strictest selection was vital to maintain quality.
The Nacional vineyard
Literally at the heart of the estate is the 1.6ha Nacional vineyard, an extraordinary patch of ungrafted vines that has survived on its own roots, post-phylloxera. The name derives from the fact that the vines are directly rooted in ‘the soil of the nation’. The Nacional vineyard is much less vigorous than the surrounding vineyard with yields about half of that elsewhere on the estate. This makes for wines with extraordinary power and concentration, but also finesse.
The plot has been certified organic since 2013 and is worked manually and ploughed by mule. Production is usually 200-300 cases in a declared year (the 1931 Nacional is now so rare that it is unobtainable).
Noval makes a Nacional wine every year but it only sees light of day if it is truly up to scratch. For example Seeley reports that the 2015 Nacional is ‘very, very tannic and closed’ and may never be released. He calls these bottlings the ‘secret Nacionals’.
So far five Nacional wines have been released in the last decade including 2020. Seely says: ‘There are years when we know straight after treading in lagar that we will be declaring a Nacional Vintage Port – and 2020 was one of these’. He describes it as ‘outstanding from the beginning’ and looking at my note on the wine (below) it is hard to disagree. Half the production is being released now with the rest kept back for future release.
Colheitas
Seely is a convert to colheita Port, wines from a single harvest that are kept in pipe (barrel) to soften and age like a tawny Port prior to bottling. Noval has been laying down colheitas since the 1990s – ‘I wish I had laid down more’ comments Seely. There is speculation that a Nacional Colheita may be among the so-called ‘secret Nacionals’.
The most recent Noval Colheita to be released is the 2009, about a quarter of which was bottled earlier this year with the rest kept back to bottle later.
The decade of wines listed below are a fitting tribute to two generations of the Argellos family who look after the estate and the winemaking. They are also testament to the work done by Seely, who has spent nearly 20 years re-capturing the soul of Noval, steering it back to its rightful place as one of the great terroirs of the Douro. Never one to run with the herd, Quinta do Noval retains its idiosyncratic and individualistic spirit.
See tasting notes and scores for a decade of Quinta do Noval releases
Related content:
Tasting Quinta do Noval wines: latest releasesLeading Port producers declare a 2020 vintagePorto: a wine lover’s guide
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2020
From an early harvest after a hot summer which produced a small quantity of super-concentrated wines: wonderful inky-crimson colour; closing down on the nose but with underlying ripe plum and berry fruit, almost minty and exotic in its ripeness; made in a deliberately rich style with more residual sugar than normal, dense on the palate with broad ripe, gravelly tannins and a big expansive finish. Still a little raw but with beautiful opulence overall and nothing baked or stewed here, despite the heat and power of the vintage.
2020
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2020
Like the rest of Quinta do Noval, the Nacional parcel ripened early in 2020 and was harvested in one day on 17th September. Deepest inky crimson-black colour; sullen and dense on the nose but with underlying opulence; amazing depth and concentration, nothing raw about this despite its youth. Broad, ripe, gravelly tannins, focused with glorious spice and richness. Big and broad on the finish but with remarkable freshness and finesse for a hot year. A ‘wow’ of a wine with a lifetime or more in bottle ahead.
2020
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2019
A dry summer with moderate temperatures and perfect weather through the harvest, which lasted well into October. Closed and sullen on the nose with underlying density and a hint of graphite; much more expressive on the palate with lovely, rich liquorice-like intensity (though not as dense or concentrated as the 2020) combined with lovely purity and freshness (the hallmark of this vintage). Firm, spicy tannins mid-palate leading to a long linear finish. Mid-weight with a classic profile showing balance and definition.
2019
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2019
Again, picked on just one day (9th October) and foot-trodden in one small lagar. Not quite as deep and dense as the 2020 but closed in and introverted on the nose with characteristic underlying power and intensity. Ripe black cherry fruit with seamlessly integrated solid, ripe tannins. Lithe with less flesh and a bit leaner than the 2020 but very much all there with a long, fine sinewy finish
2019
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2018
A cool wet spring was followed by hot, dry end of summer which extended through the harvest, grapes were picked over a long period from 5th September to 13th October. Still deep and opaque in appearance; withdrawn on the nose but with brooding, dark chocolate concentration underlying. Very well defined on the palate with lovely purity of fruit and lighter, sinewy tannins mid-palate extending to a linear finish which shows great finesse. Just 1,600 cases in total, representing 7% of Noval’s production.
2018
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2017
An exceptionally early harvest followed on from a cold, dry winter and a very hot, dry summer from June onwards. Deep, opaque and still youthful in appearance; opening up in the glass to reveal super-ripe, minty fruit with a touch of dust and eucalypt. Already showing wonderful finesse; big, broad and fleshy with solid, ripe tannins rising in the mouth to a long and massively structured (foursquare) finish. Beautifully defined and integrated overall. Very impressive: this will be a long-term keeper.
2017
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2017
Harvested quite early on 15th September, Christian Seely describes this as ‘one of the greatest Nacionals we have ever produced’. Still closed in on the nose but with an intense vinous purity and definition that would be hard to match. Beautifully defined and wonderfully fresh, wild berry with great poise and finesse, tight-knit tannins rising in the mouth, structured, massively powerful on the finish yet so very elegant too. Perfect Port!
2017
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
A year of extremes with a hot dry summer following on from a wet winter. The arid conditions slowed down ripening. Deep and youthful, opening up to reveal well-defined, pure berry fruit and black cherry ripeness on the nose. Undeniably rich in style but not overtly sweet, with liquorice and dark chocolate concentration and that lovely purity of fruit backed by spicy-gravelly tannins. Showing great balance and poise from start to finish. A wine for the long term.
2016
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
The first Nacional to be released under organic certification, picked quite late on 9th October. Not as deep in hue as either the 2011 or 2017. Open on the nose with wonderfully wild aromas of mint, esteva (gum cistus) and a touch of tar; lovely purity mid-palate and not as sweet as some. Multi-layered, the wine builds and builds in the mouth. Fine-grained rather than massive tannins and a long sinewy finish that shows near perfect elegance and finesse.
2016
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015
Heavy rain early in the growing season prepared the vines for a hot, dry summer. Rain interrupted the harvest but some excellent wines were made both before and after. Still deep, youthful and opaque; lovely aromas of fresh summer fruit and a cherry stone character. Fresh and well defined, tight knit and focused though not as big as the 2016. Fine-grained tannins, lovely acidity and great elegance all the way through the long, linear finish.
2015
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014
A challenging year from start to finish with unsettled weather in early summer and rain during harvest. Noval was one of very few houses to declare. Still deep and youthful in hue but more forward than the others in the line-up, with a fine, fragrant, floral character on the nose. Classical profile with very pure berry fruit character backed by peppery-spicy tannins. Mid-weight, not as structured or impressive as some of the wines here, but shows great balance and finesse. Just 700 cases produced.
2014
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2013
A cool wet spring preceded a hot summer, then heavy rain interrupted the vintage. This is made from grapes picked early on in the harvest, only 1,200 cases were made – all from fruit grown in the Pinhão Valley. Now fully open on the nose with graceful plummy ripeness; similarly graceful and beautifully integrated on the palate, fresh well defined berry fruit, tannins softening up. Not big or structured but lithe and elegant all the way through to the finish. Good definition and balance in a lighter year.
2013
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012
A drought year saved by spring rains, consequent low yields saved by the absence of extreme summer heat - only 1,000 cases produced. Fabulous on the nose; open, fragrant with underlying liquorice and dark chocolate richness and intensity. Seamless on the palate, soft ripe plummy fruit and bitter-sweet intensity, fully integrated ripe tannins leading to a powerful gripping finish. Extremely good.
2012
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2011
A classic year to start the decade: everything was in place to produce some magnificent long-lasting wines. Deep, opaque but just turning on the rim. Rich and multi-layered, opening up to reveal ripe cherry-stone fruit; soft, rich and fleshy in style. Initially backed by broad, ripe, structured tannins with dark chocolate intensity. All there, big, rich and lasting with a glorious flourish on the finish.
2011
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2011
Picked relatively late on 10th October, the end of a fine harvest in the Douro. Not that deep in colour; now open, fragrant with a slightly wild, herbal character on the nose, still with much more to give. Beautifully sweet, fleshy fruit, minty ripeness offset by a rather sexy streak of acidity down the middle that contributes to the near-perfect definition, powerful, reserved tannins and a peacock’s tail of a finish. A ‘wow’ of a wine showing great power, poise and integration.
2011
Quinta do Noval
