Rhône 2017: Full en primeur report
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Rhône 2017 may be considered a rather inconsistent vintage but flashes of brilliance are still to be found, reports Matt Walls...
Northern Rhône 2017
Concentrated, long-lived red wines, generally very good to excellent in quality, very ripe but not jammy. Apart from a clutch of top performers, whites can lack precision and focus.
4/5
Southern Rhône 2017
A hot, dry year has resulted in a very good to excellent vintage of powerful, structured red wines, though sometimes overripe or with leathery tannins. Whites tend towards richness over freshness.
4/5
‘It’s a very good vintage, with flashes of greatness at both poles’
When we look back in ten years time, 2017 won’t be held in quite the same esteem as the exceptional 2015 and 2016 Rhône vintages – in quality terms it’s simply too erratic.
But here and now you’re not buying a vintage, you’re buying individual wines, and the best 2017s hit similar heights to the two previous years, albeit in a very different style.
The 2017s all share the impact of a parched summer, which has led to a rather inconsistent vintage.
Quick link: See all Rhône 2017 en primeur tasting notes & scores
‘It was dry, there was no rain,’ says Laurence Féraud at Domaine de Pegau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. ‘The berries were really small, more like blackcurrants. Beautiful bunches, but so small.’
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The drought impacted yields to some degree, but not as much as the coulure (poor fruit-set), hitting Grenache hard and, to a lesser extent, Viognier.
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Rhône 2017 en primeur reports:
Top scoring Rhône 2017 wines
Northern Rhône report
Southern Rhône report
Best value Rhône 2017 wines
Winemakers blessed with old vines on the right terroir have been able to turn the dry conditions and low yields to their advantage, making concentrated, powerful, ageworthy wines. Inevitably, however, some wines veer towards overripeness and tough tannins.
There are some good whites in both north and south, but these are relatively scarce this year – whether it’s better in the north or south is hard to call. It’s a very good vintage, with flashes of greatness at both poles, but generally speaking, 2017 is a vintage in which to buy top red wines from the best domaines.
Best Producers in 2017:
Northern Rhône
Domaine Les 4 Vents
Domaine Les Bruyères
M Chapoutier
Domaine JL Chave
Domaine Clape
Domaine Combier
Domaine Guy Farge
Ferraton Père & Fils
Domaine Pierre Gaillard
Domaine Gonon
Domaine Bernard Gripa
E Guigal
Domaine Jamet
Domaine Gaylord Machon
Domaine Stéphane Ogier
Domaine Christophe Pichon
Domaine Rostaing
Domaine Marc Sorrel
Domaine François Villard
Domaine Alain Voge
Southern Rhône
Domaine Alary
Domaine Beau Mistral
Domaine des Bernardins
Domaine Brusset
Domaine des Carabiniers
Domaine Combe Julière
Le Clos du Caillou
Domaine de L’Espigouette
Moulin de La Gardette
Château de Montfaucon
Château Rayas
Domaine Roger Sabon
Domaine Le Sang de Cailloux
Château St Roch
Domaine Vallot
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Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.