Rhône producer to know: Domaine Chaume-Arnaud, Vinsobres

The appellation of Côtes du Rhône Villages St-Maurice is almost extinct. Aside from the local cave cooperative, just two producers bottle any wine under this name; one of them is Domaine Chaume-Arnaud.

Most of what they make is Vinsobres, however – a more familiar name, but appellations like these still serve more as bushel than lighthouse. I can think of no other reason this estate isn’t better known, since its wines are so reliably good.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for five Domaine Chaume-Arnaud wines

A family domaine

It is now in the hands of Thibaud Chaume (pictured above), but it was his mother Valérie who established the estate in 1987, renting 4.5ha of vines from her parents after leaving agricultural college. She was joined two years later by Thibaud’s father, Philippe.

In 1999, they inherited the remaining 30ha of family vineyards, which the domaine continues to farm today.

Their conversion to biodynamic methods in 2003 was a response to global warming, and they were certified by Demeter in 2009.

‘The goal was to keep freshness,’ says Philippe, and he confirms that the acidities in the wines are higher now as a result.

What wines are made at Chaume-Arnaud?

The St-Maurice, made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, is wild and mouthfilling. Their classic Vinsobres is more refined and refreshing thanks to 20% Cinsault in the blend. The depth and ageability of their Vinsobres La Cadène comes from the generous Mourvèdre in the blend.

Their whites are as good as their reds. The Côtes-du-Rhône, made from Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, is fresh and highly drinkable. Their top white, a Marsanne/Viognier blend also bottled as Côtes-du-Rhône and again named La Cadène, is better still – an excellent Southern Rhône white.

They also like to play with some more obscure varieties for their IGP wines, planted on flat land near the river Aigues, including Caladoc and Merlot for the reds, Chenin, Chasselas et Vermentino for whites.

The spirit of polyculture farming – growing a range of different crops – hasn’t died out here, and they still grow tomatoes, olives and cereals as well as vines. The family is proud of its paysan roots.

Thibaud’s younger brother Raphael is a professional rugby player, but in 2022 he’s due to retire from the sport and return to the family farm. An estate that’s quite literally going from strength to strength.

A selection of Domaine Chaume-Arnaud wines tasted:

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