Top single-varietal wines to try

This is one of the increasingly common late releases from the hands of biodynamic pioneer Clemens Busch in the Middle Mosel. This rarity comes from 110-year-old ungrafted vines grown on blue Devonian slate. The grapes were fermented spontaneously in the traditional 1,000l fuder after 40 hours of skin-contact, then aged for 15 months on its gross lees. So much extract contained in such slenderness is astonishing. Echoes of slate and honey are everywhere, despite the dryness, while its length and texture are showstopping.

Greywacke (pronounced ‘Greywacky’) is the Marlborough label of Kevin Judd, one of the region’s pioneer winemakers after having directed the first 25 vintages at Cloudy Bay as their founding winemaker. Judd established Greywacke in 2009, named after the greywacke river stones found in the vineyards of much of the Wairau Valley, from which his fruit is sourced. This wine is made via a spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation in mostly old French oak barrels, with occasional lees stirring. It was transferred out of oak just prior to the following harvest and then left on the lees for a further six months. Rebecca Gibb MW: A highly floral expression on the nose, exuding talc and rose petals, with a more delicate expression on the palate, remaining fine and focused throughout. Very pretty indeed. Roger Jones: A bright, zesty nose welcomes an elegant, seamless palate with restrained fruit, while at the same time offering complex notes of wet stone and guava. Gentle, yet tastes expensive. Phil Tuck MW: Lifted and concentrated with impressive depth, showing a delightful balance between a grassy varietal purity and a subtle oaky complexity. Really well done.

Sourced from Stella Bella's five vineyards, the Chardonnay from each site is vinified separately in mostly old Burgundian oak, spending 10-12 months maturing in barrel, with regular lees stirring, before blending. It's an amazingly fresh expression, as you might expect from Margaret River, with lively acidity invigorating a doughy, citrus palate that's been kissed by apricots, while the finish is stony and introspective.

The world’s only premier cru Aligoté, from vines nearly 110 years old, with 24 months in old oak. This is pure and vivacious, lemon and chalk, but ineffably elegant, its acidity in check. Still very young.

Domaine A's 11ha holding, Stoney Vineyard, is the oldest vineyard in the Coal River Valley. The long sunshine hours are tempered by the cool, maritime climate, helping to ensure full but elegant ripeness. The Lady A is inspired by the great whites of Bordeaux, sourced from a 1ha parcel of the estate's oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines. It ferments in 100% new French oak barriques and then spends 12 months on its lees before bottling. It opens with smoky orange and floral aromas, with licks of juicy peach, pineapple, passionfruit and intense zesty lemon notes. In the mouth, intense flavours of creamy apricot and zesty lime are joined by a mineral character and a tangy apple finish. Delicious.

Since it was first made in 1995, this incredible Semillon (and others in the McGuigan portfolio) has won a swathe of awards – particularly when it gains rich, complex honey and toast notes about 10 years from vintage. So buy some bottles to squirrel away but enjoy a few now for the bone-dry, textural flavours of lime juice, lanolin and crisp apple.

The warm sea breezes of Nelson (compared to Spain’s Atlantic Coast) have tamed Albarino’s acidity while retaining its classic saline minerality, Neudorf’s organically farmed vineyards and wild yeast fermentation adding an extra layer to lift the fruit.

This is the second vintage of Yannis Valambous' oak-treated Assyrtiko. While the non-oaked version is vinified in stainless steel - giving a waxy, pithy white with a steely finish - this barrel fermented version begins life in stainless steel but completes fermentation in a mix of 225l and 500l new French oak barrels, with some lees stirring. The result is a wine with an enticing orange peel scent and intense flavours of creamy apricot cut through by pithy citrus. There's a touch of woody astringency here, making it an ideal wine for drinking with smoked white fish.

Sourced from seven vineyards planted between 1962 and 1982, the fruit for this core Chenin Blanc is from a mixture of soil types and locations. Its honeyed, green apple scent is typical Chenin, while the rich, woody palate is supported by saline acidity and limey tang. The finish is a balancing act between drying wood notes and a sweeter stone fruit character. 5,000 bottles produced.