Getting to know red Hermitage

Compared to the southern Rhône, the northern Rhône is easy to understand. All the appellations follow a narrow strip of land that follows the west bank of the river for 60km, from Vienne in the north to Valence in the south.

Except, that is, for Hermitage, sitting proudly on the east bank, surrounded by the very different terroir of Crozes-Hermitage.

For such a legendary name, the south-facing hill of Hermitage isn’t as large as you might expect. It covers just 137ha – for a sense of scale, Château Talbot in Bordeaux has 110ha, while AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape covers 3,133ha.

Scroll down to see Matt’s 34 red Hermitage tasting notes

Terroir

Hermitage may not be massive, but it’s a complex terroir. The western quarter is composed primarily of granite, and the long eastern flank is made up of limestone and alluvial deposits. At the summit there are patches of loess and at the base some gravelly clay.

Traditionally, producers have blended across these different soil types to create a single Hermitage cuvée, and some, typified by Domaine JL Chave, still prefer this approach.

The 1990s, however, saw the rise of single-vineyard wines. These were championed by Michel Chapoutier and he was followed by others such as Delas, Ferraton Père & Fils and, more recently, Domaine Bernard Faurie.

Other smaller landholders only own vineyards in a single lieu-dit, mentioned on their labels, such as Domaine Fayolle Fils & Fille’s ‘Les Dionnières’.

Broadly speaking, wines derived from granite soils such as lieu-dit Les Bessards tend to be focussed, straight and mineral. Those from the eastern flank such as lieux-dits Le Méal and Les Beaumes are more generous and muscular. Wines from the bottom of the slope, including lieux-dits Les Dionnières and Les Greffieux, are fruitier and rounded.

It’s a steep, terraced terrain so rather than wires, most vines are grown around single wooden stakes known as echalas. This makes for back-breaking work, particularly among the organic and biodynamic vineyards.

This is a site that’s been used for cultivating vines for centuries, and there are significant amounts of old vine material.

Style

Whether blended or as a single-vineyard expression, these terroir-dominated wines have a strong sense of place. Though technically up to 15% Marsanne and/or Roussanne is permitted in the blend, in reality including any white grapes is very rare – almost all Hermitage is 100% Syrah.

Usage of whole bunches is gradually on the increase, and new oak barriques are making way for used barrels and demi-muids – both are welcome developments.

Ageability and when to drink

The wines themselves are among the most powerful expressions of the Syrah grape, displaying a deeply savoury profile that works brilliantly with food. They are best drunk either within the first four years of vintage, or after 10 years; they can go through a closed period in between.

Most Hermitage wines develop and improve for 20 years with ease, and the best can age for 50 years, and even longer in great vintages.

When they’re young the wines can be intensely tannic and quite edgy in texture, often with a saline thread. In terms of flavour, you can expect dark berry fruits backed up by black olive and herbs such as oregano and bay, sometimes black pepper. They often have a whiff of woodsmoke, and I’m frequently reminded of firework smoke.

As they age, they take on notes of hung game, roasted meat, dried leaves, turned earth and truffle. The best are breathtaking, majestic wines of endless complexity – as much a journey as a drink.

Tasting red Hermitage:

All wines tasted at the ‘Legendary (H)Ermitage’ tasting in Tain L’Hermitage

Leading producers of red Hermitage:

Domaine JL Chave, M Chapoutier, Domaine Marc Sorrel

Under-the-radar options:

Domaine Bernard Faurie, Domaine Fayolle Fils & Fille, Domaine Yann Chave

Reliable, good value red Hermitage:

Domaine Marc Sorrel, Classique, Hermitage

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage

Fayolle Fils & Fille, Les Dionnières, Hermitage

Domaine du Colombier Hermitage

Red Hermitage key facts:

AOC Hermitage created in 1937

70% of Hermitage production is red wine

Permitted varieties Principally Syrah (can technically include 15% Marsanne, and/or Roussanne)

Climate Warm continental, very sunny with northerly winds

Annual production 3,602 hectolitres (2018)

Average yield 38hl/ha

Top recent vintages for red Hermitage 2015, 2010, 2015

Getting to know white Hermitage

Northern Rhône 2017 report: ‘A vintage for the cellar’

Best French wines: 100 point scores

Explore More

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.

Scroll down to see Matt’s 34 red Hermitage tasting notes

Terroir

Style

Ageability and when to drink

Tasting red Hermitage:

Leading producers of red Hermitage:

Under-the-radar options:

Reliable, good value red Hermitage:

Red Hermitage key facts:

You may also like:

Getting to know white Hermitage

Northern Rhône 2017 report: ‘A vintage for the cellar’

Best French wines: 100 point scores

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1998

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1990

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1989

Delas, Les Bessards, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2003

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1989

Domaine Marc Sorrel, Le Gréal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2009

M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2001

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 1985

Domaine JL Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016

Fayolle Fils & Fille, Les Dionnières, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2015

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Maison Bleue, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2015

Domaine Marc Sorrel, Le Gréal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2011

Domaine Marc Sorrel, Le Gréal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2012

Fayolle Fils & Fille, Les Dionnières, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017

Fayolle Fils & Fille, Les Dionnières, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016

Domaine des Martinelles, Louis et Aimé, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2006

Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2007

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2012

Ferraton Père & Fils, Le Méal, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2010

Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016

Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2016

Domaine Yann Chave, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2006

Domaine Michelas St Jemms, Terre d'Arce, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2009

Domaine Michelas St Jemms, Terres d'Arce, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017

Les Vins de Vienne, Les Chirats de St-Christophe, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2011

Domaine Belle, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2011

Domaine Michelas St Jemms, Terre d'Arce, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2012

Maison Les Alexandrins, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2017

Cave de Tain, Epsilon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, 2009