Southern Rhône white wines: how do they compare?

Southern Rhône white wines – how do they compare?

When most of us think of Rhône whites, we instinctively lift our eyes northwards. The crus of the Northern Rhône produce 17% white wine, whereas the crus of the Southern Rhône make just 4%.

But if we take a magnifying glass to this sliver of southern whites there is a fascinating diversity – of landscapes, of soils, of grape varieties, regional styles. As with all things Rhône, the neat north is easier to grasp than the sprawling south.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of 21 new-release Southern Rhône white wines

How does a white Cairanne compare to a white Lirac? Which of the named villages make the finest whites? And what about the satellite appellations like Ventoux and Luberon? Blending is the tradition here so it’s not always easy to tell them apart.

There are regional differences however – and here’s an idea of what to expect.

White Côtes-du-Rhône

A classic AOC Côtes-du-Rhône white serves as a useful reference point. Before aromatics, what really unifies this style is its structure. These are never light or brisk wines; they have a certain weight in the mouth, they are broad, with a texture between silky and oily.

Their acidity is more akin to a that of a pear than a green apple. Their flavours too; orchard fruits or stone fruits, depending on the blend.

Most are straightforward weekday wines, but there are a handful of exceptional whites bottled under this generic appellation, and they can offer excellent value for money.

Named Villages

This is where some regional differences start to become more apparent. Of the 22 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages with geographic description (or Named Villages), only half are permitted to make white wines, and only a few of those do in any volume.

The biggest player by far is Laudun, a sizeable appellation just north of Lirac on the west bank. This part of the Rhône was historically famous for its whites, and Laudun’s production is still 21% white today.

The whites have a straightness and tension here that brings refreshment even when acidities are fairly soft. Further north, the limestone hills of Saint-Gervais is another good source.

Back on the east bank near Gigondas there are two other good options: Sablet and Séguret. The first of these makes lighter wines with real finesse thanks to its sandy soils. The excellent whites of Séguret next door tend to use more Marsanne, and have a little more flavour intensity as a result.

The northern section of the Southern Rhône is another good hunting ground for whites.

The named villages of Visan, Valréas and Saint-Maurice benefit from altitude and freshness, making generous, gently perfumed wines that are typically based around Viognier, diluted with Grenache Blanc.

The Crus

Only four Southern crus make white wine: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras, Cairanne and Lirac.

The most popular grapes for all of them are Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne, but in different proportions.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape whites are stylistically similar to their reds: bold, bombastic, majestic. It’s a huge appellation, and like any famous region some of the wines trade on the name – and still get away with charging high prices for average wines. But – again, like the reds – at their best, they can be towering, incredible, unforgettable wines.

If Châteauneuf makes the fullest white wines of the Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras is rarely far behind. It has the generosity of Châteauneuf, if not always the finesse and intensity. The best however are every bit as impressive as many a famous name from its more illustrious neighbour.

What I enjoy about Cairanne whites is a particular sense of balance and elegance – perhaps it’s thanks to the large amount of Clairette grown here, over a third of plantings in fact. The whites here are rich but not massive.

Lirac makes a particularly straight, focussed style of white Rhône that can be the most refreshing to drink without food, especially if unoaked.

Satellite appellations

All the ‘Other Rhône Valley’ appellations that surround the main Côtes-du-Rhône growing area make white wine, some more than others.

Luberon is the most distinctive thanks to their championing of Vermentino, which adds a crisp, zesty edge to their whites. Ventoux can offer a little steeliness and tension thanks to higher altitude limestone soils. The whites of Costières de Nîmes are getting better and better all the time, and are a little softer and more fluid in comparison.

If Viognier is your thing, try Grignan-les-Adhémar for fresher styles, Duché d’Uzès for richer ones.

Vintages

Now is a good time to experiment with Southern Rhône whites as the two most available current vintages are 2019 and 2020. Both are very good for whites, but very different in character. The 2020s are crisp and juicy; the 2019s intense and powerful.

It’s never wrong to drink them young. The best Châteauneuf whites do benefit from ageing, but choose those with an established track record.

The 2014s, 2010s and 2001s are good options for drinking now.

21 new-release Southern Rhône white wines

In A-Z appellation order

Cairanne

91 Domaine A Berthet-Rayne Castel Mireio Cairanne, 2020

90 Domaine Galluval La Vallée Cairanne, 2019

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

97 Château de Vaudieu Clos du Belvédère Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

97 Domaine Grand Veneur La Fontaine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

96 Domaine Raymond Usseglio Pure Clairette Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2018

96 Château de Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

96 Domaine de Beaurenard Boisrenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

95 Domaine de la Janasse Tradition Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

94 Le Clos du Caillou Les Safres Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

94 Domaine Pierre Usseglio Tradition Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

94 Château de Nalys Grand Vin Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

94 Julien Masquin L’intimiste Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

93 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

93 Guillaume Gonnet Bel Ami Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

93 Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

93 Château de la Gardine Tradition Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

93 Domaine de la Charbonniere Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 201992 Domaine Georges Lombrière Cuvée Thaïs Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2020

92 Domaine Croze-Granier Elise Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019

Costières de Nîmes

93 Château Mourgues du Grès Galets Dorés Costières de Nîmes, 2020

Côtes du Rhône

92 Domaine de Fontbonau La Lence de Fontboneau Côtes du Rhône, 2019

91 Domaine de Fontavin La Petite Robe Blanche Côtes du Rhône, 2020

91 Domaine Galevan Libre Expression Côtes du Rhône, 2020

89 Brotte Esprit Côtes du Rhône, 2020

89 Domaine de L’Amandine Côtes du Rhône, 2020

89 Domaine de l’Espigouette Côtes du Rhône, 2020

89 Le Plan-Vermeersch RS Côtes du Rhône, 2019

Côtes du Rhône Villages

90 Château Maucoil Côtes du Rhône Villages, 2020

89 Domaine Clavel Claire de Lune Côtes du Rhône Villages, 2018

92 Ferraton Père et Fils Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Laudun), 2020

89 Maison Sinnae Eléments Luna Côtes du Rhône Villages (Laudun), 2020

91 Domaine Pique-Basse L’Atout du Pique Côtes du Rhône Villages (Roaix), 2019

89 Domaine Les Sibu Côtes du Rhône Villages (Sablet), 2018

90 Domaine Eyguestre Le Maupas Côtes du Rhône Villages (Séguret), 2019

89 Domaine de l’Amauve La Daurele Côtes du Rhône Villages (Séguret), 2020

92 Domaine la Florane Echevin Guillaume de Rouville Côtes du Rhône Villages (St-Maurice), 2018

90 La Decelle Le Carré Côtes du Rhône Villages (Valréas), 2017

92 Domaine de Coste Chaude L’Octave Côtes du Rhône Villages (Visan), 2019

Duché d’Uzès

90 Mas des Volques Alba Dolia Duché d’Uzès, 2017

Grignan-Les Adhemar

91 Domaine de Montine Egérie Grignan-Les Adhemar, 2018

Lirac

92 Domaine Maby Casta Diva Lirac, 2019

91 Domaine de Castel Oualou Lirac, 2020

90 Château d’Aqueria Lirac, 2019

Luberon

91 Bastide du Claux L’Odalisque Luberon, 2019

90 Marrenon Doria Luberon, 2019

89 Domaine des Peyre Scoop Luberon, 2019

Vacqueyras

94 Montirius Minéral Vacqueyras, 2020

94 Domaine la Monardière Galéjade Vacqueyras, 2019

93 Domaine de la Verde Odyssey Vacqueyras, 2020

93 Domaine la Fourmone La Fleurantine Vacqueyras, 2019

91 Domaine Arnoux & FilsVieux Clocher Vacqueyras, 2019

Ventoux

93 Château Juvenal Les Ribes du Vallat Ventoux, 2020

91 Domaine des Anges, Archange Ventoux, 2019

91 Domaine Vintur, Cuvée Séléné Ventoux, 2017

90 Château Pesquié, Cuvée Juliette Ventoux, 2019

Southern Rhône white wines: 21 great buys from the 2018, 2019 & 2020 vintages

Wines have been listed in score order

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