Spanish-Indigenous-Whites
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Sarah Jane Evans MW, Matthew Forster MW and Beth Willard tasted 149 Spanish indigenous whites with seven outstanding and 77 highly recommended wines.

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit current-release vintages of 100% varietal white wines from any region in Spain


The verdict

Cask-fermented Palomino from Cádiz. Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta. Macabeo from Aragón.

It was no wonder that such a variety of grapes and regions won praise from the judges and earned Outstanding scores.

However, it was one of Spain’s better-known white styles that performed best across the board. White Rioja accounted for three Outstanding wines and 13 Highly Recommended. ‘The Riojas were all benchmark, high-end offerings; sophisticated oak, quite classically styled,’ noted Matthew Forster MW.

While the three Rioja top scorers were made from Viura, other varieties worked well too. ‘I found some of the really individual characteristics of Tempranillo Blanco came through, which is exciting,’ said Beth Willard. ‘Some of the younger wines were really lovely, which reflects where Rioja is with its white winemaking.’

Verdejo from Rueda also put in a solid performance with 10 Highly Recommended wines. ‘Rueda is a great alternative to New Zealand Sauvignon,’ noted Willard. ‘Verdejo is a fabulous glass of wine; it’s fresh, with limey, lemony character and a really sharp acidity. It shows there’s a lot to offer in these classic Spanish regions.’


Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Spanish indigenous white wines


In contrast, a classic style that didn’t perform as well as expected was Albariño. ‘There was consistency at a good level,’ said Willard, noting the 12 Highly Recommended wines – however none of them delivered a wow factor. ‘Probably because they were young; most were 2019 and they just didn’t have a lot of character,’ added Sarah Jane Evans MW. ‘Albariño is now producing some really quirky wines and really individual winemakers – but we didn’t have any of those here.’

So what did deliver? ‘We had an amazing Palomino from Cádiz,’ said Evans. ‘And something that really sang out to me was Godello, which had this lovely honeyed character.’ Producing 11 Highly Recommended wines – most from Galicia – Godello is ‘an interesting choice if you want to try something that’s not Atlantic but is a little bit fresher’, she added.

‘Garnacha Blanca was the takeaway for me,’ said Forster. While conceding it is ‘thought of as quite rustic’, he added: ‘We found some illuminating examples – lovely wines, open-textured, rich and concentrated with the oxidative characters lending complexity rather than dragging the fruit down. I think there’s plenty of mileage in that grape variety.’

Although grapes such as Garnacha Blanca or Forcada aren’t familiar to most, they aren’t new. In fact they demonstrate a trend for winemakers in Spain to return to their roots and celebrate their old-vine heritage.

‘You might call these wines “new wave”, but they’re actually really old winemaking regions and old wines that are undiscovered,’ explained Willard. ‘The current generation of winemakers are going back to the origin and resurrecting the cultural history and richness of Spain, which is really exciting.’

Indigenous varieties also capture a uniquely Spanish character in a way that international varieties might not. ‘Even with the diversity of style, there is always something that you can identify as Spain,’ noted Forster.

The judges agreed that the inherent diversity of indigenous Spanish whites is a key part of their appeal for wine lovers. ‘We’ve gone across a whole range of wines, and the ones we liked were a complete mix of different styles, so everybody will find something to love,’ concluded Evans.

Discussion copy by Julie Sheppard.


See all the wines from the Spanish indigenous whites panel tasting 


The Spanish indigenous white scores:

149 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 7

Highly Recommended 77

Recommended 60

Commended 4

Fair 0

Poor 0

Faulty 1


Spanish Indigenous whites map

(Image credit: Maggie Nelson)

Spanish whites: the facts

  • In 2019, Spain produced 34,080,769hl of wine, of which 15,912,993hl (46.7%) was white
  • In 2015, Spain had 484,396.07ha of red wine vineyards and 440,153.66ha of white wine vineyards
  • Airén (white) was the most widely planted variety (215,484.14ha), followed by Tempranillo (red, 201,051.39ha)
  • The next three most widely planted whites were: Macabeo in fifth place, Cayetana Blanca (like Airén, commonly used for distillation; in seventh) and Verdejo (11th)

Source: Spanish Ministry of Agriculture


About Spain’s indigenous whites

A veritable A to Z of grape varieties awaits your discovery across Spain’s varied, often rugged and sometimes verdant terrains. Sarah Jane Evans MW loves their style, and says now’s the time to try

Quietly, almost stealthily, Spain is transforming itself into a destination for white wines. The country’s reputation may be solidly for reds, and specifically Tempranillo in its various forms. In terms of volume, though, Airén is still the most widely planted. This is explained by the fact that it produces wines ideal for distillation.

It’s relatively anonymous, though, and needs careful management by both viticulturist and winemaker. Elías López Montero at Bodegas Verum in Tomelloso, Castilla-La Mancha, in the heart of distillation country, is showing the way with his own-rooted, amphora-aged Airén.

In the northwest, Albariño has grabbed international attention, closely followed by Verdejo, both driven by energetic marketing campaigns from their dominant denominations: respectively Rías Baixas and Rueda.

The advantage of these varieties is that they make approachable wines, typically as single varietals, sold young, some with lees ageing, most without oak influence. On their first appearance on the international scene, they gave a completely different vision of Spanish white wine.

By contrast, Viura (Macabeo) is a more complex character, more widely spread across the country’s different terroirs (including as an element of Cava) and often oak-aged. It’s much harder to nail Viura at a tasting than the straightforwardly fruity Verdejos.

Revival of interest

Once upon a time – and specifically before phylloxera, around the end of the 19th century – Spain’s vineyards were bright with white grapes, interplanted with reds in field blends. Almost a century later, researchers are recuperating some of these varieties, and discovering others.

In Rioja, for instance, Juan Carlos Sancha has been part of a team, and he now has a selection in his bodega (including the historic Maturana Blanca). In Castilla y León, the results of 14 years of research are coming to fruition, though the half-dozen chosen varieties (two of which are white) don’t yet have confirmed names, and it will take another decade or so before the wines come on stream. In Catalonia, Torres has led the way in ampelographic detective work and continues to release varieties (including Forcada in this tasting).

The pleasure of these diverse varieties is their regionality, and their connection to climate and terroir. Godello, from Valdeorras in Galicia, has become attractive for producers from outside the region looking for an elegant white with a character that’s more Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc – more recent adoptees include CVNE (at Pagos del Galir).

Xarel.lo, formerly known only for its role as the backbone of Cava, is building a profile in Catalonia as a still wine. In the same region, Garnacha Blanca has had a transformation. Not long ago it was just a poor relation of the equally unloved Garnacha Tinta, but now the DOs of Terra Alta and Alella in particular are showing its appeal as a complex, textured white.

An unexpected outsider is Palomino Fino. The foundation of dry Sherries, particularly manzanilla, was disguised by the winemaking process. The recent explosion in producing unfortified Palominos, with little or no flor influence, is revealing the character of this variety when grown on dazzling limestone albariza soils. At the same time, the varieties of the Canary Islands have come into the global marketplace; their Listán Blanco is the same grape as Palomino.

Spain is a terrific hunting ground for white wines. From the Albillo Mayor of Ribera del Duero and the Albillo Real of Cebreros to the Zalema of Condado de Huelva, there hasn’t been a better time to explore.


Top-scoring wines from the Spanish indigenous whites panel tasting:


The judges

Sarah Jane Evans MW

Evans is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster in food and wine, with a particular interest in Spain. A Master of Wine since 2006, she is chairman of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, author of The Wines of Northern Spain, and one of three Co-Chairs overseeing the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Matthew Forster MW

An independent wine consultant and education specialist, Forster started his wine career with Berry Bros & Rudd before joining the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, where he led the team responsible for WSET qualifications in wine, spirits & sake. A Master of Wine since 2016, he specialises in the wines of Spain and Portugal.

Beth Willard

After moving to the UK from Australia, Willard worked in several buying roles before that of buying manager at Direct Wines. Now working with Winetraders to introduce new wines from Spain and Eastern Europe to the UK, she is a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros de Vino and the Confrérie de Tokaj.


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2018

GaliciaSpain

Hammeken CellarsRibeiro

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Beronia, Verdejo, Rueda, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2019

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Bright citrus and green apple fruit on the nose. Palate is very fresh, vibrant with typical green, limey fruit. A mineral approach with some...

2019

Castilla y LéonSpain

BeroniaRueda

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Pazo la Maza, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2018

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Fairy floss and rhubarb with lemony notes on nose. Supple and smooth apricot and saline character on palate. A richer and creamier style.

2018

GaliciaSpain

Pazo la MazaRías Baixas

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Clos de Lôm, Malvasia, Valencia, Valencia, Spain, 2019

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A very Valencian expression of Malvasia with loads of oranges, marmalade character. Very ripe, sunny fruity with mouth-watering freshness, a very sunny wine. Fascinating

2019

ValenciaSpain

Clos de LômValencia

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Bodegas Adria, Etapa 24, Bierzo, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2016

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Bright gold colour: honeyed with apricot, marmalade make for an expressive nose. Palate is waxy, creamy and orange followed by tropical notes. Slightly bitter on...

2016

Castilla y LéonSpain

Bodegas AdriaBierzo

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Bodegas Terra D'Art, Flor de Ahillas, Valencia, Valencia, Spain, 2019

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Lovely fresh pineapple and lime on the nose. Structured palate; racy acidity with an attractive saline character. Long complex finish. Distinct character but with broad...

2019

ValenciaSpain

Bodegas Terra D'ArtValencia

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Astobiza, Txakolí, de Alava, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019

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Saline and lemony on nose. Fine interplay between balanced red grapefruit acidity, fresh green herbs, and sea saltiness. Very mineral, distinctly so, gives individuality. Elegant.

2019

Northern SpainSpain

AstobizaTxakolí

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Bodegas Hydria, 4 Cuerdas, Bullas, Jumilla, Spain, 2018

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A more delicate nose with floral notes. Creamy palate with tangerine fruit, layers of vanilla cream; tangy freshness shows through. Lively intense finish, full of...

2018

JumillaSpain

Bodegas HydriaBullas

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Lagar de Costa, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Very fresh acidity, lively yellow grapefruit and lemon pith. A more mineral palate which should open up with time.

2019

GaliciaSpain

Lagar de CostaRías Baixas

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Ossian, Castilla y León, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2018

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Fresh and fruity on the nose. Sweaty character on palate with baked straw and tarte tatin. Excellent concentration and intensity.

2018

Castilla y LéonSpain

OssianCastilla y León

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La Purísima, Consentido, Yecla, Jumilla, Spain, 2019

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Slightly confected face paint aromas yield to a smoky and complex palate with nutmeg spice and laurel. Long lively finish, with chalky texture giving interest.

2019

JumillaSpain

La PurísimaYecla

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Borja Pérez Viticultor, Artífice, Tenerife, Spain, 2017

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Marmalade, citrussy nose. Full bodied; palate is very textural with fresh acidity, notes of pine resin and umami flavours with a long, building finish.

2017

TenerifeSpain

Borja Pérez Viticultor

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Virgili Bros, El Xitxarel-Lo, Penedès, Catalonia, Spain, 2019

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Fresh, lemony nose. Pleasant texture, mulberry and yellow apple fruit with richness in the mid-palate, but refreshed by the lively acidity, and creamy lees. Long...

2019

CataloniaSpain

Virgili BrosPenedès

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Bodegas Aquitania, Bernon, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Attractive and expressive nose with fennel seeds and salty sea air. Rich palate with generous peach, crab apple fruit and pear. Fruity and fresh finish.

2019

GaliciaSpain

Bodegas AquitaniaRías Baixas

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Juan Gil, Blanco, Jumilla, Spain, 2019

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Fine floral Moscatel aromas. Lovely acidity jumps up out of the glass. Following by plump Muscat grape fruits. Lively youngster to enjoy in the sunshine....

2019

JumillaSpain

Juan Gil

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Veiga da Princesa, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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<p>Veiga da Princesa only produces wine from grapes grown in its own vineyards. The producer is located in the Rías Baixas sub-region Condado de Tea,...

2019

GaliciaSpain

Veiga da PrincesaRías Baixas

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Bodegas Valdemar, Conde Valdemar Tempranillo Blanco, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2019

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Herbal and floral notes, vibrant lemon. A really attractive mineral, flinty palate with some perfumed fruits. Appealing sweetness on finish.

2019

RiojaSpain

Bodegas ValdemarRioja

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La Val, Finca Arantei Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Stone fruit, aniseed and herbal notes. Quite rich and full bodied with some clotted cream aromas on the palate.

2019

GaliciaSpain

La ValRías Baixas

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Uvas Felices, El Jardín de Lucía, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Vivid zesty palate with tropical fruits including lychee, passionfruit, pineapple and a long and fresh minty finish.  

2019

GaliciaSpain

Uvas FelicesRías Baixas

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Adegas Galegas, Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain, 2018

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Earthy, almost cheesy aromas. Fresh acidity with fresh gooseberry fruit. Succulent honeyed finish. Long, intense; carries its extra year of ageing well, gives more complexity.

2018

GaliciaSpain

Adegas GalegasMonterrei

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Arousana, Follas Novas Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Fine salty savoury Albariño, with notes of seashells, sea salt and chalk. Backed up by lemon zest and creamy lees and a herbal finish.

2019

GaliciaSpain

ArousanaRías Baixas

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Care, Garnacha Blanca Nativa, Aragón, Spain, 2019

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Floral. Fresh green apple, salty with a touch of white pepper on finish. Oak is a firm thread but adds structure and interest. Bright and...

2019

AragónSpain

Care

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Hammeken Cellars, Gotas De Mar, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Very floral and perfumed nose. Fresh and mineral palate with notes of asparagus, grassy, limey flavours; textured with zippy acidity followed by a salty finish....

2019

GaliciaSpain

Hammeken CellarsRibeiro

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Bodegas Hiriart, Luna Blanco sobre lias, Castilla y León, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2018

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Bright lemony nose. Palate is fresh and fruity with a lot of structure. Quite rich in quince and apple with a long fruity finish.

2018

Castilla y LéonSpain

Bodegas HiriartCastilla y León

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Bodegas Naia, Naia, Rueda, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2018

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Balanced fresh and fruity. Well structured palate with some yellow apple and quince followed by a warm spicy finish.

2018

Castilla y LéonSpain

Bodegas NaiaRueda

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Bodegas Naia, Náiades, Rueda, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2016

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Caramel, nutty, buttery oak on the nose. A peppery texture on the palate. Rich and creamy with a lime backbone and mineral. Fresh and flinty...

2016

Castilla y LéonSpain

Bodegas NaiaRueda

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Pago de los Capellanes, O Luar do Sil, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2017

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Nose of butterscotch and lemon. The palate is rich and weighty but balanced with fresh acidity and a savoury character. Gentle exotic spice and a...

2017

GaliciaSpain

Pago de los CapellanesValdeorras

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Pazo das Tapias, Ondas del Alma Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain, 2019

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Delicate floral notes on the nose followed by celery seed and crab apple notes. Lemony, bright acidity; straightforward and not so overly complex but fruity...

2019

GaliciaSpain

Pazo das TapiasMonterrei

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Raventos de Alella, Pansa Blanca, Catalonia, Spain, 2019

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Perfumed nose of sweet orange blossom followed by a rich, succulent palate of roasted peach fruit, riper honeysuckle and apricot with fine minerality on the...

2019

CataloniaSpain

Raventos de Alella

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Bodegas Hermanos Peciña, Senorio de P. Pecina, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2018

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Aromatic with honeysuckle, white roses. Fresh lemon and grapefruit pith combine with spicy, woody notes and cinnamon. A long, savoury finish.

2018

RiojaSpain

Bodegas Hermanos PeciñaRioja

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Hermanos Lurton, Sobre Lias Verdejo, Rueda, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2019

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Honey and jasmine on the nose. The palate is bursting with fresh citrus character, anis and red berries.

2019

Castilla y LéonSpain

Hermanos LurtonRueda

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Bodega Gótica, Trascampanas Verdejo, Rueda, Castilla y Léon, Spain, 2019

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Pleasant white stone fruit and white flower notes. A fresh palate lifted by green tints and a sweet lemon curd finish. Well balanced.

2019

Castilla y LéonSpain

Bodega GóticaRueda

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Bodegas Del Medievo, Tuercebotas Tempranillo Blanco, Rioja, Rioja, Spain, 2019

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Very fleshy, fruity and juicy. Pump ripe palate, with honeyed golden fruits. A finely balanced wine with a fresh lemony and mineral finish. 

2019

RiojaSpain

Bodegas Del MedievoRioja

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Txomin Etxaniz, Txakoli, Txakolí, de Getaria, Northern Spain, Spain, 2019

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Nose of grenadine and quince fruit, some mango peel, and apricot notes. Full of lemon and tangerine, with a creamy coating giving appealing richness. Very...

2019

Northern SpainSpain

Txomin EtxanizTxakolí

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Mas Macià, Xarel-Lo, Catalonia, Spain, 2019

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A subdued but elegant nose with delicate white floral notes. A more mineral wine with powdery and stoney texture. Attractive almond, lemon, and green apple...

2019

CataloniaSpain

Mas Macià

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MontRubí, White, Penedès, Catalonia, Spain, 2019

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Locked score

Lovely, bright ripe pear fruit on the nose. Quite a simple wine with attractive forest, herbal notes on the palate, saline with long mineral finish....

2019

CataloniaSpain

MontRubíPenedès

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Sarah Jane Evans MW
Decanter Magazine, Wine Writer, DWWA 2019 Co-Chair

Sarah Jane Evans MW is an award-winning journalist who began writing about wine (and food, restaurants, and chocolate) in the 1980s. She started drinking Spanish wine - Sherry, to be specific - as a student of classics and social and political sciences at Cambridge University. This started her lifelong love affair with the country’s wines, food and culture, leading to her appointment as a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros de Vino for services to Spanish wine. In 2006 she became a Master of Wine, writing her dissertation on Sherry and winning the Robert Mondavi Winery Award. Currently vice-chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine, Evans divides her time between contributing to leading wine magazines and reference books, wine education and judging wines internationally.