Spanish Icons: López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia

López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Rioja

First vintage: 1913

Among the world’s most recognisable vineyard names, López de Heredia’s Viña Tondonia has become a brand in its own right.

Its Reserva is treasured as one of Spain’s most accessible icons, both stylistically and budget-wise, consistently delivering power and poise, drinkability and staying power, quality and value.

See below for a must-try vintage of López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia

The exceptional vintages, which after more time in barrel become Gran Reservas, on the other hand, command significantly higher prices in both the primary and secondary markets. Likewise, Tondonia’s white and rosé iterations are among Spain’s most collectible – and unique – wines of both categories.

Now in the capable hands of fourth-generation María José López de Heredia, the winery is determinedly committed to tradition and heritage.

‘We are obsessed with not changing our style,’ she says. ‘It’s not only what our customers want but also what we believe in. We want our wines to reflect our land and region, Rioja Alta, as well as the history that brought us to the present. We are faithful to both our viticultural and oenological traditions.’

Founder Rafael López de Heredia built the eponymous winery in Haro in 1877 and, after nearly three decades as a bulk wine trader, began the establishment of the vineyards that now provide the only source of fruit to Bodegas López de Heredia’s wines: Tondonia, Bosconia, Cubillo and Gravonia.

Replanted between 1901 and 1907 after being decimated by phylloxera, Tondonia covers just over 100ha on the right bank of a meander of the Ebro in Rioja Alavesa.

Tempranillo makes up the majority of plantings, with smaller percentages of Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo (Cariñena), Viura and Malvasía. ‘Every vintage is a challenge. Quality is a goal that can never be seen as achieved. Experience can give us confidence but the character [of the wines] is built every day,’ says María José.

‘All generations have had to work hard, with constancy, inquisitiveness, conviction and a deep understanding of nature.’

Constancy is indeed what first comes to mind when thinking of Viña Tondonia and its wines, which have a strong character but soft edges, are comforting but never boring, unapologetic yet unassuming – just what you expect an icon to be.

The wine to try before you die

López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia Reserva, Rioja, 2012 – 94pts

£27.50 (ib)-£56 Widely available via UK independents US$55-$72 Widely available

70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Graciano and Mazuelo, bottled in January 2022, having matured in 225L American oak barrels for six years.

All you can expect from a classical Viña Tondonia with its focused intensity and muscular yet very elegant tannins. At once assertive and silky, with juicy red and blue fruit gliding over the palate while being pleasantly pulled back by an energetic, iodine verve.

Subtle, hovering, brooding notes of tobacco, mocha and wet forest floor.

Drink: 2025-2040 Alcohol: 13%

Spanish Icons: López de Heredia, Viña Tondionia

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