Clos Mogador, Vinya Classificada, Priorat
First vintage: 1989
One of the leading, and most characterful, faces of the ‘Gang of Five’ who transformed Priorat in the last quarter of the 20th century, Clos Mogador’s founder René Barbier brought an idiosyncratic strength to his interpretation of the region, at once poetic and technically exact – attributes that can also be ascribed to the project’s namesake wine, whose earthy complexity and elegant rusticity never fail to impress, vintage after vintage.
See below for a must-try vintage of Clos Mogador Vinya Classificada
The history of Clos Mogador is also that of the Barbier family, which grew and evolved with the vineyards of Priorat – and the Clos Mogador project – as their identity and point of reference.
In 1979, René bought his first plot and settled with wife Isabelle (1952-2020) and six-year-old René Jr in the then overlooked region.
The young family’s life revolved around Barbier’s obsession with Priorat’s llicorella soils and steep slopes, which culminated in the production of the blend of Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon that’s now synonymous with modern Priorat.
The familial craftsmanship with which Clos Mogador has always been associated is further underscored by Isabelle’s work overseeing communication and image (including label design). The family has since added other wines and regions to its portfolio, but Mogador remains the flagship and Priorat the spiritual home.
Since 2021, Barbier’s sons Christian and René Jr have been at the helm of the estate. In charge of viticulture, Christian has been consolidating biodynamic and agriculture practices, with all vineyards currently worked by horse.
In the cellar, René Jr is pursuing greater precision with a lighter-handed approach, aware of the challenges posed by climate change to achieve balance.
Clos Mogador is an icon already, but one that also intrigues for the potential that lies ahead.
The wine to try before you die
Clos Mogador, Vinya Classificada, Priorat, 2021 – 97pts
£50-£57 (ib) Christopher Keiller, Cru, Farr Vintners, Ideal Wine Co, Turville Valley / US$110-$130 Astor Wines, Compline, Gordon’s, Hart & Cru, Hi-Time, Houston Wine Merchant, Marty’s, Rain City Wines
49% Garnacha, 29% Cariñena, 16% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; native-yeast fermented, 30% with stems, then aged for 18 months in 2,000L oak foudres.
Wood and alcohol are masterfully integrated in this vintage, which balances fragrant nuance with muscularity. Plum, infused cranberries and cherry sorbet rest on chestnut and green olive tapenade.
Oregano, thyme and Earl Grey impart herbal depth. These are echoed in the petrichor and wet tobacco leaves that sit in the background. Fine yet robust tannins allow the wine to linger and develop beautifully in the mouth.
Drink: 2025-2036 Alcohol: 14%
Spanish Icons: Clos Mogador, Vinya Classificada
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