Spätburgunder: Panel tasting results

Germany Pinot Noirs Spätburgunder — (Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Caro Maurer MW, Mark Dearing and Stefan Neumann MS tasted 58 wines, with 2 Exceptional, 6 Outstanding and 30 Highly recommended

Spätburgunder: Panel tasting scores

58 wines tasted

Exceptional 2

Outstanding 6

Highly recommended 30

Recommended 16

Commended 4

Fair 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still, dry red wines made from Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) only, from any region in Germany

Scroll down to see the top-scoring wines from our German Spätburgunder panel tasting

Warming vineyards

It may not sound politically correct, but German wine regions are still benefiting from climate change.

Spätburgunder – literally translated as ‘late Burgundy’, otherwise known as Pinot Noir – is one of the main winners in the rising temperatures.

Warm vintages such as 2018, 2019 and 2020 have already brought noticeable ripeness and a marked rise in quality.

The 2022 vintage was another standout, with German Spätburgunder earning recognition among the world’s best.

‘The wines from the 2022 vintage in particular were outstanding today,’ said Stefan Neumann MS after tasting these 58 Spätburgunder wines.

Growth potential

Unlike Riesling, Spätburgunder is still a ‘niche product’ in Britain, according to Mark Dearing. This is despite the fact that Germany cultivates 11,519ha of Pinot Noir, according to the Federal Statistical Office.

With a total cultivation area of some 120,000ha worldwide, the country ranks third, just behind France (about 32,300ha) and the US (about 25,000ha).

The grape variety can now be found in all 13 quality wine-growing regions – and thus thrives on a variety of soils: limestone as well as slate, red sandstone, basalt, loess or Keuper.

‘The wines have expressed their different regional characteristics very strongly,’ said Dearing. Neumann was particularly impressed by examples from the Ahr and Rheinhessen regions.

In contrast to the past, ‘the fine-tuning today is spot-on’, he added. ‘It’s the small differences in the handling of acidity, extraction and oak ageing’ that have led to the excellent results in this tasting. And you don’t need to spend a fortune:

‘The quality is consistent across all price ranges,’ Dearing said. The tasting’s biggest surprise was a 96-point Spätburgunder from Mosel (see recommendations). ‘Mosel shows enormous potential – the cool climate and slate soils create a distinctive style,’ said Dearing.

‘This,’ Neumann added, ‘is where elegant, fresh, vibrant wines are made – the kind you’ll want a second glass of.’ ‘German Spätburgunder should be on the radar of every wine lover who appreciates expressive, terroir-driven Pinot Noir,’ Dearing said in conclusion.

What to eat with Spätburgunder, by Fiona Beckett

Beef Wellington makes a fine accompaniment to Spätburgunder

Given the quality of Germany’s Spätburgunder wines, it’s worth erring on the extravagant side of possible food pairings. Fillet steak or beef Wellington, for example, rather than ribeye or venison; raw or seared meats such as carpaccios and tartares. (That applies to tuna, too.)

That said, it also works well with the cured, sometimes smoky meats and sausages you find in Germany.

There is also the reliable go-to of duck and other game birds. Partridge would be particularly fine. Thanks to the richness of many Spätburgunders, they can handle a bit of spice, too. Five spice, which you find in Chinese duck dishes, is particularly Pinot-friendly.

At this time of year there are also mushrooms of all kinds – a mushroom risotto is an excellent foil for a good Spätburgunder, ditto a mushroom stroganoff. Older vintages would be ideal for an autumn dinner party.

Spätburgunders are also generally easier to pair with cheese than Burgundy, especially with bloomy, white-rinded cheeses such as brie and the excellent British Baron Bigod.

See all notes and scores from the Spätburgunder panel tasting

The judges

Caro Maurer MW is a German food and wine writer, a WSET- and MW-level educator, and the DWWA Regional Chair for Germany. She contributes to Bonn’s daily newspaper General-Anzeiger and food and wine title Der Feinschmecker

Mark Dearing is a wine buyer for London-based merchant and importer Justerini & Brooks, where his responsibilities include Germany, as well as numerous other major wine nations and regions

Stefan Neumann MS is a Master Sommelier who runs his own wine consultancy, having spent many years working in the world of Michelin-starred restaurants. Born close to Austria’s Wachau region, he is the DWWA Regional Chair for Austria and Switzerland