St-Joseph: Revisiting 2022 in bottle
Matt Walls takes another look at the hot and dry 2022 vintage in St-Joseph now that the wines are in bottle, and selects 35 of his favourites.
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When it comes to extreme vintages, I’m pretty circumspect. I was never a great fan of wines from 2003, which was an exceptionally hot and dry year.
But a recent tasting of 50 2022 St-Josephs painted a picture of a surprisingly strong vintage despite an even more severe growing season than 2003.
In 2003, winemakers didn’t know how to react to the extreme heat. But 2022 came after a succession of roasting years, during which winemakers honed their methods.
This time, they were ready.
Scroll down for notes and scores for 2022 St-Joseph in bottle
Record-breaking extremes
To describe the weather as extreme in 2022 is no exaggeration. A weather station in Orange recorded the hottest May on record. It counted 37 days when temperatures reached over 35°C – only 2003 saw more.
And it wasn’t just the days that were sweltering; average nighttime temperatures were the hottest ever recorded.
It was also exceptionally dry. Between 15 October 2021 and 1 September 2022, only 300mm of rain was recorded – compared to 600mm in a normal year.
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In summary, between budbreak and harvest, 2022 was the hottest, driest year in the Rhône since records began in 1950.
Easy for growers
Conditions like this were felt throughout the Rhône Valley, and St-Joseph was no different. For winemakers, it made for a relaxed year.
‘It was easy to manage in the vineyard,’ says Ludovic Izerable of Domaine Lionnet, who has vineyards in the southern part of the appellation near Cornas.
Graeme Bott of Domaine Bott, located at the northern end of St-Joseph, agreed.
‘There was no water for downy mildew to be an issue and it was too hot for powdery mildew to be an issue either,’ he says, ‘Work overall in the vineyards was quite straightforward and it was one of the years which required a lower amount of manpower due to the slower development of the vines.’
Tough on vines
The harsh conditions were tough on the vines, however. Growth was stunted due to the heat and drought, and young vines struggled.
Damien Brisset, head winemaker at Ferraton, says, ‘we had to adapt by practicing minimalist viticulture – no leaf plucking, no trimming the canopy – and also by regulating the crop load in some plots through green harvesting, to limit blockages in ripening during August and September.’
Winemakers also had to modify the way they worked in the cellar.
‘We chose to use a higher than normal percentage of whole bunches in the reds and worked the wines with just one short pump over per day,’ says Bott.
Brisset also opted for, ‘the gentlest possible extractions’.
Powerful reds
When I tasted the 2022 red St-Josephs from barrel, there was significant stylistic variation – most had the power you would expect from such a year, but some were surprisingly lean due to blockages in ripening due to heat and drought.
After some time in bottle, this is still the case; some are light, aromatic and best drunk young. But most are in the other camp – powerful, densely tannic, darkly fruited.
So it’s a vintage with something for everyone.
Inevitably, some of the wines were less exciting. This was usually down to uneven or blocked ripening resulting in a green, bitter streak or a lack of depth. Some were very reductive; others were over-oaked.
But largely, 2022 is a very good vintage for St-Joseph reds – one with energy, intensity and serious tannic structure.
Intense whites
The whites broadly share this drive and concentration, with plenty of extract and salinity. Oak can help accentuate this, but it wasn’t always needed in 2022 thanks to the natural intensity of the fruit.
In hot vintages, whites can be prone to flabbiness – such as in 2018. But sometimes the effect is to accentuate their intensity and salinity, such as 2010 and 2017 – and 2022.
Bott was happy with both colours. ‘It is a very good vintage for both whites and reds which is not always the case,’ he says.
‘I think the reason being is that with the heat and lack of rain during the last ripening period the grapes reduced in size and concentrated both sugar and acidity, similar to 2019 in Burgundy, so we actually kept reasonable acidity levels considering the vintage.’
Wines for ageing
After a year or so in bottle, usually I would expect most St-Josephs to be ready to start drinking, but most 2022s need another couple of years in bottle to soften.
They will have unusual longevity too – typically around 10 years, but some will go on to mature and develop for 20. Be aware that the more structured wines are likely to feel quite hard and serious in youth. It’s a vintage that will really blossom in time.
So if you enjoy the smoky complexity of aged northern Rhône Syrah, 2022 St-Joseph will prove a particularly cost effective way of stocking your cellar. Some of the whites will prove deliciously long-lasting too.
‘If we compare statistics, 2022 would be similar to 2003, however it was not at all the same style of wine produced,’ says Bott, ‘much lower alcohol levels and more balanced ripeness.’
In 2003, no one had experienced such heat and drought before, so it caught winemakers by surprise, many of them were still on holiday when they needed to start picking.
In 2022, they were prepared – and the results are so much better.
St-Joseph 2022: The wines to try
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Domaine Benoît Roseau, Sur le Quartz, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A powerful, grand style of white St-Joseph, large in its proportions, expansive, delicious and very long. A stately white that’s not as oaky as some, and not as structured as a result, but the quality is undeniable. A serious wine – so drinkable, fresh and uplifting. The grapes are grown in St-Désirat, central St-Joseph and fermented with natural yeasts. In conversion to organic.
2022
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Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Lionnet, Pierre Blanche, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A floral, fresh style with ripe nectarine flavours. There’s no distracting oak, just plentiful powerful fruit. This has volume and salinity, presence and intensity, yet it is really drinkable, in fact this is a joy. Grown in the southern part of St-Joseph.
2022
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Domaine LionnetSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

This wine has power and intensity teamed with freshness and sufficient acidity, backed up with lovely salty extract. Aromatically it's quite reductive and closed, but it’s very promising and opens up with air, and should be more giving by 2026. It has very good balance for a hot vintage, and fairly long length, such a good wine. The grapes are grown on steep granite slopes in Tournon, and half fermented in vat, the other half in demi-muids.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Bernard Gripa, Le Berceau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A wine that’s fresh but mellow in aroma, then yields to a full-bodied, with vanilla and brioche notes from the oak, which also gives a satin texture. It’s ripe but not excessively so, with an enjoyably long finish. A luxurious style of St-Joseph.
2022
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Domaine Bernard GripaSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Rich buttery mango and pear aromas lead onto a very full-bodied, rich and generous palate, but it has freshness too. The oak is well integrated, adding structure and complex spice notes to the long finish. A very hedonistic style. Grown in Chavanay and St-Pierre-de-Boeuf, in northern St-Joseph. It has 30% whole bunch, and was aged in barriques.
2022
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Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Le Paradis Saint-Pierre, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Open, rich and ripe, this is certainly ready to drink. It has good depth of fruit, notably pear with a note of buttered popcorn, and it’s full-bodied, satin textured and very ripe. Quite potent alcohol and generous oak make for a powerful white St-Joseph with intense flavour and impact – it might be a bit much for some tastes! And certainly needs food. Aged for 12 months in barriques. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Gonon, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Daffodil freshness on the nose with musky quince notes. It’s very full and generous in body, its voluptuousness accentuated by its low acidity. The wine has structure, however, thanks to its salty extract. Powerful, potent and rich.
2022
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Domaine GononSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Really spicy on the nose, with smart oak work framing the pineapple fruit. It's fairly full-bodied, certainly full-flavoured, but not heavy as it keeps a briskness, salinity and drinkability. So, it’s pretty clever all in all. Very well balanced for a hot year, and has that hot-year intensity, just without excess flab or alcohol. Lovely. Fermented in demi-muids, and 25% aged in barrels.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Not quite as structured as some, this is very ripe and fruity, with plenty of puppy fat. Lovely ripe, rich mango fruit, this is for drinking young. It doesn't quite have the same freshness that it exhibited from barrel, but still offers great value. From 50% clay, 50% granite soils near Mauves. Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

The only wine of 11 white St-Josephs tasted alongside each other that has notable struck-match reduction. It works, adding some smoky complexity. Very full-bodied and generous on the palate, a grand and expansive style of white northern Rhône that’s rich and powerful. It has only mild acidity, but with some noble bitter notes to finish, this has lots to offer. From a granite hillside in Tournon, aged in barriques and demi-muids, 30% new.
2022
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Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

This is an intense wine with smoky cassis aromas. On the palate the acidity is balanced, though it's really quite extracted. It shows damson and blackberry flavours, like a condensed fruit coulis, and it’s really packed full of muscular tannin. The oak work is perfectly judged. It could score higher in time, as for now it's really quite embryonic and very tannic – but those tannins are very well combed out nonetheless. It’s quite a chiselled style that will take a long time to soften. Although it has impressive length and depth, you should wait at least five years before approaching. Grown in the lieu-dit St-Joseph in Mauves, in southern St-Joseph. Aged in new and recently used barrels for 18 months.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Clos de Cuminaille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Dark and brooding, with peppery spice, vanilla and smoky bacon notes. This has lovely tannic finesse, great energy, bright acidity and tension. It really grips the palate. It’s very vibrant, it fizzes and crackles. A wine with a good sense of clarity and definition. The oak spice rises on the long finish, as does the oak tannin, but this will be very good in time. You could open this now with food, but the best will come from 2029. From a 3ha parcel in Chavanay, planted 1981. It was aged in barriques, 40% of them new. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, Patagone, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

The nose is immediately fresh and appealing, with notes of juniper, hibiscus and rosehip. Light in body, it moves quickly in the mouth, and it’s very fresh, with bright acidity. There’s a touch of hibiscus bitterness to close. It feels very naturally presented, with ethereal lightness and drinkability. Mildly fuller in body than the domaine’s Ribaude cuvée. Long maturation in demi-muids.
2022
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Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Rather faint on the nose, and quite reductive for now, although new leather and ripe blackberry aromas come with air. Then it’s very punchy on the palate, with a big tannic impact and a mineral grind. This has real structure and energy. It’s drinkable and vibrant, with a saline finish. Seriously granitic, this has great energy and zest. The nose should open up in time to offer something lovely, so give it time. Best vintage yet from this domaine. Grown in Chavanay and St-Pierre-de-Boeuf, in northern St-Joseph. It has 30% whole bunch, and was aged in barriques.
2022
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Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Laurent Habrard, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Peppery oregano notes on the nose, followed by some weight and fruit richness on the palate. It’s fairly low in alcohol and has good acidity, making for a dynamic and well-balanced St-Joseph with a juicy combination of red and black fruit. Well-integrated oak, no overextraction, this is a digestible style.
2022
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Domaine Laurent HabrardSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Paradis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Dark and quite insular for now, but this has lovely tannic finesse and freshness, with good acidity. It's concentrated, and has seen quite a bit of oak, so it needs some time to develop. But it will be very good indeed when it's ready. Lots of very fine, velvet tannin is what really marks this wine out, and its long finish. It's quietly exciting; I would like some in my cellar. From a steep plot in Mauves; all destemmed, 10% new oak.
2022
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Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Le Clos, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

More oak work than most, but on the palate it works well, and it won't dominate by the time this is ready to drink. This is a massive, highly concentrated style of St-Joseph, with huge, punchy tannins and serious extraction. The tannins will settle in time, but will always be present and fairly domineering. It has energy, freshness, extract and structure, so will be good eventually – but be prepared to wait! Fermented in concrete, aged in barrel, 25% new.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Les Pierres, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

This is good: a complete, full-bodied wine that’s quite extracted, with plentiful bullish tannins. The oak is forthright, but the wine meets it. It will be very good in time, but is currently chunky and foursquare, with quite dry tannins and a very long finish. This is a serious St-Joseph, with real power, but balance and freshness too. Give it time. From plots in Chavanay, Malleval and Limony (northern villages), aged in new barriques. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Delas, Sainte-Epine, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Highly spiced, nutmeg and cinnamon nose. Fairly full-bodied, this is a sweetly ripe and oak-driven style. It’s powerful, with serious drive and quite potent alcohol. A bit of a beast! It should have the concentration and freshness to sustain the wine for long enough to swallow the new oak. For those that like an oaky style, this is a very good example. It’s not overly drying on the finish, and the fruit is strong and pure. From the lieu-dit St-Epine in St-Jean-de-Muzols in the heart of the appellation. Aged half in new, half in one-year-old barrels. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, La Ribaude, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Strong juniper and hibiscus notes on the nose, with underlying smoke. It's tight for now, but has real energy and vibrancy. There’s a slight bitter twang on the finish. It feels quite natural in style, but it’s complex and interesting, far from a concentrated, oaked style, it’s much more transparent and ethereal. Delightful in fact. Despite low alcohol, there’s no lack of flavour. This is best drunk by itself or with light dishes. The fruit was destemmed and fermented with natural yeasts, then aged in demi-muids.
2022
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Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Olivaie, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A structured style of St-Joseph with present tannins, firm acidity and enjoyable concentration. This has good finesse – the tannins are smooth and elegant, the fruit is ripe and concentrated, giving depth and balance. The oak is quite prominent, but it doesn't overwhelm the fruit, just lends considerable spice to the finish. Should last for some time, and is likely to improve with age. From 60-year-old vines, the grapes were destemmed, and aged in 15% new oak. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Farge, Terroir de Granit, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Quietly fragrant, with bright, zesty berry fruits. This is powerful, with denim-like tannins and firm acidity. There’s a good sense of purity, even though it’s very concentrated. It needs time, and has all it needs to wait until it blossoms. From 60-year-old vines between the villages of St-Jean-de-Muzols and Vion. In conversion to organic.
2022
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Domaine FargeSt-Joseph
Domaine Niero, Bois Prieur, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A lighter style among the structured 2022s, this is perfumed, fragrant and fresh. It has concentration and depth on the palate, however, with a long, oak-tinged finish. This has a real sense of elegance, even if the acidity is on the low side. It’s very much a northern St-Joseph in style, it has delicacy. The oak is dominant currently, so give this time to integrate – it will be very good when it's ready. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine NieroSt-Joseph
E Guigal, Vignes de l'Hospice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Aromas of earthy blackcurrant, with generous oak spice, cola and clove. It has good acidity and brightness, and no overextraction. An interesting mix between light freshness of fruit, energy and intense oak spice, suggesting this will age with interest. From good terroir in a heavily oaked style. Aged for 30 months in new oak barriques. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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E GuigalSt-Joseph
Emmanuel Darnaud, Lieu-dit La Dardouille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

With its rich blackberry aromas, this is an enjoyably ripe, full-bodied, powerful expression. It has big grip, big acidity and very ripe fruit, finishing dry. There’s a good sense of energy and freshness, with an upright, granite feel. Good length and cleansing tannins. From the south of Tournon, 30- to 80-year-old vines, 80% destemmed, aged in barriques and demi-muids. In conversion to organic.
2022
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Emmanuel DarnaudSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Bonneveau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Dark and brooding currently, this is a little introverted now, but it’s promising. It’s full-bodied, concentrated and powerful, with dense, fairly solid tannins. It's quite extracted, and the oak work is prominent for now, so it’s feeling young. Looking to the future, this should be good; it certainly has the stuffing, concentration and drive to last. It will need it, as the oak and tannin are forthright; you could drink this with a steak, but its best years lie ahead. This will be very good when it's ready. From a high altitude plot in Tournon, all destemmed, 10% new oak.
2022
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Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Seductive fruity aromas with a cheeky lick of oak, which adds some complexity. A touch of meatiness too to the savoury blackberry fruits. There’s a balsamic touch on the palate, which is light- to medium-bodied. The tannins are quite generous, but relatively fine for the vintage, which can be quite blocky. This benefits from a decant. Just 25% aged in barrel, fermented with natural yeasts.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Delas, François de Tournon, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Violets, blueberries, black cherry and a touch of rubber all on the nose. This is full-bodied for a 2022, the oak is quite prominent on the palate, but it's applied well as it adds body, spice, length and a dryness to the finish. Enjoyably fresh and vigorous, the oak feels a bit distracting at this early stage, so give it time to integrate. From a blend of grapes from the villages of Vion, St-Jean-de-Muzols, Mauves and Tournon (all southern/central St-Joseph). Aged mostly in barrels, which are between one and three years old. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Currently quite closed, but you can tell there's an interesting wine hiding away here, waiting for the right moment to unfurl. It’s earthy, flinty and smoky. A concentrated wine that’s dry, taut and savoury. Currently this feels really tight, so needs a few years to open up. The oak use is well judged, not dominant. It’s not offering a great deal of pleasure right now, but it has freshness, acidity and energy, so should be good in time. It's likely to always have a steely, cut-flint edge. This is the best from Courbis for some time.
2022
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Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, Les Royes, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Fresh and spicy aromatics, there's some graphite notes on the mid-palate, as well as smoke and flint. The acidity is quite cutting. It’s only medium-bodied, but it has freshness, tension and zest, and an attractive perfumed, ethereal nature. The oak is forthright, but the wine still has a lot to offer. Give it a couple of years to integrate further.
2022
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Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Decidedly introverted at the time of tasting, but there's plenty here it’s just all tightly wound for now. Good concentration and tannic load, it's quite a muscular mouthful. Oak work is aromatically fairly discreet, but the palate is structured. It’s not offering much pleasure currently, but has good potential. From 30-year-old vines, the fruit was destemmed, then aged in barriques and demi-muids. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Jeanne Gaillard, La Relève, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Softer and more gentle than many 2022s, this has enjoyably ripe fruit and tannin; the flipside is that the alcohol is a touch warming, accentuating the oak. There’s a good sense of freshness and energy however, and good length. This will be good, but it needs a few years to come together. Deliciously drinkable now, unlike many 2022 St-Josephs. Good impact and freshness. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Jeanne GaillardSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Deschants, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Fresh blackberry and blackberry jam aromas lead onto a powerful palate that has impressive energy and drive. It’s medium-bodied but the tight tannins make for a structural style of St-Joseph on the palate, with good length. It’s rather backward for now, this will take a while to come round, then offer some impressive drinking for years to come. Seriously good value. Fermented in concrete, then a proportion is aged in barrel.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Belle, Les Rivoires, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

The oak work is quite forthright, with strong clove flavours. This power, drive and concentration with freshness underneath, so should repay cellaring. It moves fast in the mouth, brisk and snappy, with dark cigar-wrapper notes to finish. The oak work is very obvious for now, so wait until at least 2028 before opening. From a parcel in Tournon, partly destemmed, then fermented with natural yeasts, and aged in 30% new oak, the rest in a mix of barrels between one and two years old.
2022
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Domaine BelleSt-Joseph
Famille Ravoire, Olivier Ravoire Oriflamme, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Surprisingly pale in colour. This is really quite open and giving already, feeling quite evolved. It’s light in body, and not terribly concentrated. The oak lends the wine a high-toned spice, giving it length and sapidity, with good acidity. Atypical but interesting, this will likely give some pretty, complex and fresh drinking with time in bottle to come together. Destemmed, fermented in concrete, 60% aged in French oak barrels, 10% of which are new.
2022
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Famille RavoireSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, Sur le Quartz, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A powerful, grand style of white St-Joseph, large in its proportions, expansive, delicious and very long. A stately white that’s not as oaky as some, and not as structured as a result, but the quality is undeniable. A serious wine – so drinkable, fresh and uplifting. The grapes are grown in St-Désirat, central St-Joseph and fermented with natural yeasts. In conversion to organic.
2022
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Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Lionnet, Pierre Blanche, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A floral, fresh style with ripe nectarine flavours. There’s no distracting oak, just plentiful powerful fruit. This has volume and salinity, presence and intensity, yet it is really drinkable, in fact this is a joy. Grown in the southern part of St-Joseph.
2022
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Domaine LionnetSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

This wine has power and intensity teamed with freshness and sufficient acidity, backed up with lovely salty extract. Aromatically it's quite reductive and closed, but it’s very promising and opens up with air, and should be more giving by 2026. It has very good balance for a hot vintage, and fairly long length, such a good wine. The grapes are grown on steep granite slopes in Tournon, and half fermented in vat, the other half in demi-muids.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Bernard Gripa, Le Berceau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A wine that’s fresh but mellow in aroma, then yields to a full-bodied, with vanilla and brioche notes from the oak, which also gives a satin texture. It’s ripe but not excessively so, with an enjoyably long finish. A luxurious style of St-Joseph.
2022
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Domaine Bernard GripaSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Rich buttery mango and pear aromas lead onto a very full-bodied, rich and generous palate, but it has freshness too. The oak is well integrated, adding structure and complex spice notes to the long finish. A very hedonistic style. Grown in Chavanay and St-Pierre-de-Boeuf, in northern St-Joseph. It has 30% whole bunch, and was aged in barriques.
2022
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Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Le Paradis Saint-Pierre, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Open, rich and ripe, this is certainly ready to drink. It has good depth of fruit, notably pear with a note of buttered popcorn, and it’s full-bodied, satin textured and very ripe. Quite potent alcohol and generous oak make for a powerful white St-Joseph with intense flavour and impact – it might be a bit much for some tastes! And certainly needs food. Aged for 12 months in barriques. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Gonon, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Daffodil freshness on the nose with musky quince notes. It’s very full and generous in body, its voluptuousness accentuated by its low acidity. The wine has structure, however, thanks to its salty extract. Powerful, potent and rich.
2022
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Domaine GononSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Really spicy on the nose, with smart oak work framing the pineapple fruit. It's fairly full-bodied, certainly full-flavoured, but not heavy as it keeps a briskness, salinity and drinkability. So, it’s pretty clever all in all. Very well balanced for a hot year, and has that hot-year intensity, just without excess flab or alcohol. Lovely. Fermented in demi-muids, and 25% aged in barrels.
2022
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M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Not quite as structured as some, this is very ripe and fruity, with plenty of puppy fat. Lovely ripe, rich mango fruit, this is for drinking young. It doesn't quite have the same freshness that it exhibited from barrel, but still offers great value. From 50% clay, 50% granite soils near Mauves. Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
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Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Oliviers, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

The only wine of 11 white St-Josephs tasted alongside each other that has notable struck-match reduction. It works, adding some smoky complexity. Very full-bodied and generous on the palate, a grand and expansive style of white northern Rhône that’s rich and powerful. It has only mild acidity, but with some noble bitter notes to finish, this has lots to offer. From a granite hillside in Tournon, aged in barriques and demi-muids, 30% new.
2022
RhôneFrance
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granits, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

This is an intense wine with smoky cassis aromas. On the palate the acidity is balanced, though it's really quite extracted. It shows damson and blackberry flavours, like a condensed fruit coulis, and it’s really packed full of muscular tannin. The oak work is perfectly judged. It could score higher in time, as for now it's really quite embryonic and very tannic – but those tannins are very well combed out nonetheless. It’s quite a chiselled style that will take a long time to soften. Although it has impressive length and depth, you should wait at least five years before approaching. Grown in the lieu-dit St-Joseph in Mauves, in southern St-Joseph. Aged in new and recently used barrels for 18 months.
2022
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Clos de Cuminaille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Dark and brooding, with peppery spice, vanilla and smoky bacon notes. This has lovely tannic finesse, great energy, bright acidity and tension. It really grips the palate. It’s very vibrant, it fizzes and crackles. A wine with a good sense of clarity and definition. The oak spice rises on the long finish, as does the oak tannin, but this will be very good in time. You could open this now with food, but the best will come from 2029. From a 3ha parcel in Chavanay, planted 1981. It was aged in barriques, 40% of them new. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, Patagone, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

The nose is immediately fresh and appealing, with notes of juniper, hibiscus and rosehip. Light in body, it moves quickly in the mouth, and it’s very fresh, with bright acidity. There’s a touch of hibiscus bitterness to close. It feels very naturally presented, with ethereal lightness and drinkability. Mildly fuller in body than the domaine’s Ribaude cuvée. Long maturation in demi-muids.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Bott, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Rather faint on the nose, and quite reductive for now, although new leather and ripe blackberry aromas come with air. Then it’s very punchy on the palate, with a big tannic impact and a mineral grind. This has real structure and energy. It’s drinkable and vibrant, with a saline finish. Seriously granitic, this has great energy and zest. The nose should open up in time to offer something lovely, so give it time. Best vintage yet from this domaine. Grown in Chavanay and St-Pierre-de-Boeuf, in northern St-Joseph. It has 30% whole bunch, and was aged in barriques.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine BottSt-Joseph
Domaine Laurent Habrard, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Peppery oregano notes on the nose, followed by some weight and fruit richness on the palate. It’s fairly low in alcohol and has good acidity, making for a dynamic and well-balanced St-Joseph with a juicy combination of red and black fruit. Well-integrated oak, no overextraction, this is a digestible style.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine Laurent HabrardSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Paradis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Dark and quite insular for now, but this has lovely tannic finesse and freshness, with good acidity. It's concentrated, and has seen quite a bit of oak, so it needs some time to develop. But it will be very good indeed when it's ready. Lots of very fine, velvet tannin is what really marks this wine out, and its long finish. It's quietly exciting; I would like some in my cellar. From a steep plot in Mauves; all destemmed, 10% new oak.
2022
RhôneFrance
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Le Clos, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

More oak work than most, but on the palate it works well, and it won't dominate by the time this is ready to drink. This is a massive, highly concentrated style of St-Joseph, with huge, punchy tannins and serious extraction. The tannins will settle in time, but will always be present and fairly domineering. It has energy, freshness, extract and structure, so will be good eventually – but be prepared to wait! Fermented in concrete, aged in barrel, 25% new.
2022
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Pierre Gaillard, Les Pierres, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

This is good: a complete, full-bodied wine that’s quite extracted, with plentiful bullish tannins. The oak is forthright, but the wine meets it. It will be very good in time, but is currently chunky and foursquare, with quite dry tannins and a very long finish. This is a serious St-Joseph, with real power, but balance and freshness too. Give it time. From plots in Chavanay, Malleval and Limony (northern villages), aged in new barriques. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
Pierre GaillardSt-Joseph
Delas, Sainte-Epine, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Highly spiced, nutmeg and cinnamon nose. Fairly full-bodied, this is a sweetly ripe and oak-driven style. It’s powerful, with serious drive and quite potent alcohol. A bit of a beast! It should have the concentration and freshness to sustain the wine for long enough to swallow the new oak. For those that like an oaky style, this is a very good example. It’s not overly drying on the finish, and the fruit is strong and pure. From the lieu-dit St-Epine in St-Jean-de-Muzols in the heart of the appellation. Aged half in new, half in one-year-old barrels. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Benoît Roseau, La Ribaude, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Strong juniper and hibiscus notes on the nose, with underlying smoke. It's tight for now, but has real energy and vibrancy. There’s a slight bitter twang on the finish. It feels quite natural in style, but it’s complex and interesting, far from a concentrated, oaked style, it’s much more transparent and ethereal. Delightful in fact. Despite low alcohol, there’s no lack of flavour. This is best drunk by itself or with light dishes. The fruit was destemmed and fermented with natural yeasts, then aged in demi-muids.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine Benoît RoseauSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Olivaie, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A structured style of St-Joseph with present tannins, firm acidity and enjoyable concentration. This has good finesse – the tannins are smooth and elegant, the fruit is ripe and concentrated, giving depth and balance. The oak is quite prominent, but it doesn't overwhelm the fruit, just lends considerable spice to the finish. Should last for some time, and is likely to improve with age. From 60-year-old vines, the grapes were destemmed, and aged in 15% new oak. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Domaine Farge, Terroir de Granit, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Quietly fragrant, with bright, zesty berry fruits. This is powerful, with denim-like tannins and firm acidity. There’s a good sense of purity, even though it’s very concentrated. It needs time, and has all it needs to wait until it blossoms. From 60-year-old vines between the villages of St-Jean-de-Muzols and Vion. In conversion to organic.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine FargeSt-Joseph
Domaine Niero, Bois Prieur, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

A lighter style among the structured 2022s, this is perfumed, fragrant and fresh. It has concentration and depth on the palate, however, with a long, oak-tinged finish. This has a real sense of elegance, even if the acidity is on the low side. It’s very much a northern St-Joseph in style, it has delicacy. The oak is dominant currently, so give this time to integrate – it will be very good when it's ready. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine NieroSt-Joseph
E Guigal, Vignes de l'Hospice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Aromas of earthy blackcurrant, with generous oak spice, cola and clove. It has good acidity and brightness, and no overextraction. An interesting mix between light freshness of fruit, energy and intense oak spice, suggesting this will age with interest. From good terroir in a heavily oaked style. Aged for 30 months in new oak barriques. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
E GuigalSt-Joseph
Emmanuel Darnaud, Lieu-dit La Dardouille, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

With its rich blackberry aromas, this is an enjoyably ripe, full-bodied, powerful expression. It has big grip, big acidity and very ripe fruit, finishing dry. There’s a good sense of energy and freshness, with an upright, granite feel. Good length and cleansing tannins. From the south of Tournon, 30- to 80-year-old vines, 80% destemmed, aged in barriques and demi-muids. In conversion to organic.
2022
RhôneFrance
Emmanuel DarnaudSt-Joseph
Ferraton Père & Fils, Bonneveau, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Dark and brooding currently, this is a little introverted now, but it’s promising. It’s full-bodied, concentrated and powerful, with dense, fairly solid tannins. It's quite extracted, and the oak work is prominent for now, so it’s feeling young. Looking to the future, this should be good; it certainly has the stuffing, concentration and drive to last. It will need it, as the oak and tannin are forthright; you could drink this with a steak, but its best years lie ahead. This will be very good when it's ready. From a high altitude plot in Tournon, all destemmed, 10% new oak.
2022
RhôneFrance
Ferraton Père & FilsSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Les Granilites, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Seductive fruity aromas with a cheeky lick of oak, which adds some complexity. A touch of meatiness too to the savoury blackberry fruits. There’s a balsamic touch on the palate, which is light- to medium-bodied. The tannins are quite generous, but relatively fine for the vintage, which can be quite blocky. This benefits from a decant. Just 25% aged in barrel, fermented with natural yeasts.
2022
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Delas, François de Tournon, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Violets, blueberries, black cherry and a touch of rubber all on the nose. This is full-bodied for a 2022, the oak is quite prominent on the palate, but it's applied well as it adds body, spice, length and a dryness to the finish. Enjoyably fresh and vigorous, the oak feels a bit distracting at this early stage, so give it time to integrate. From a blend of grapes from the villages of Vion, St-Jean-de-Muzols, Mauves and Tournon (all southern/central St-Joseph). Aged mostly in barrels, which are between one and three years old. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
DelasSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Currently quite closed, but you can tell there's an interesting wine hiding away here, waiting for the right moment to unfurl. It’s earthy, flinty and smoky. A concentrated wine that’s dry, taut and savoury. Currently this feels really tight, so needs a few years to open up. The oak use is well judged, not dominant. It’s not offering a great deal of pleasure right now, but it has freshness, acidity and energy, so should be good in time. It's likely to always have a steely, cut-flint edge. This is the best from Courbis for some time.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Courbis, Les Royes, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Fresh and spicy aromatics, there's some graphite notes on the mid-palate, as well as smoke and flint. The acidity is quite cutting. It’s only medium-bodied, but it has freshness, tension and zest, and an attractive perfumed, ethereal nature. The oak is forthright, but the wine still has a lot to offer. Give it a couple of years to integrate further.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine CourbisSt-Joseph
Domaine Coursodon, Silice, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Decidedly introverted at the time of tasting, but there's plenty here it’s just all tightly wound for now. Good concentration and tannic load, it's quite a muscular mouthful. Oak work is aromatically fairly discreet, but the palate is structured. It’s not offering much pleasure currently, but has good potential. From 30-year-old vines, the fruit was destemmed, then aged in barriques and demi-muids. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine CoursodonSt-Joseph
Jeanne Gaillard, La Relève, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Softer and more gentle than many 2022s, this has enjoyably ripe fruit and tannin; the flipside is that the alcohol is a touch warming, accentuating the oak. There’s a good sense of freshness and energy however, and good length. This will be good, but it needs a few years to come together. Deliciously drinkable now, unlike many 2022 St-Josephs. Good impact and freshness. Certified Haute Valeur Environnementale.
2022
RhôneFrance
Jeanne GaillardSt-Joseph
M Chapoutier, Deschants, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Fresh blackberry and blackberry jam aromas lead onto a powerful palate that has impressive energy and drive. It’s medium-bodied but the tight tannins make for a structural style of St-Joseph on the palate, with good length. It’s rather backward for now, this will take a while to come round, then offer some impressive drinking for years to come. Seriously good value. Fermented in concrete, then a proportion is aged in barrel.
2022
RhôneFrance
M ChapoutierSt-Joseph
Domaine Belle, Les Rivoires, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

The oak work is quite forthright, with strong clove flavours. This power, drive and concentration with freshness underneath, so should repay cellaring. It moves fast in the mouth, brisk and snappy, with dark cigar-wrapper notes to finish. The oak work is very obvious for now, so wait until at least 2028 before opening. From a parcel in Tournon, partly destemmed, then fermented with natural yeasts, and aged in 30% new oak, the rest in a mix of barrels between one and two years old.
2022
RhôneFrance
Domaine BelleSt-Joseph
Famille Ravoire, Olivier Ravoire Oriflamme, St-Joseph, Rhône, France, 2022

Surprisingly pale in colour. This is really quite open and giving already, feeling quite evolved. It’s light in body, and not terribly concentrated. The oak lends the wine a high-toned spice, giving it length and sapidity, with good acidity. Atypical but interesting, this will likely give some pretty, complex and fresh drinking with time in bottle to come together. Destemmed, fermented in concrete, 60% aged in French oak barrels, 10% of which are new.
2022
RhôneFrance
Famille RavoireSt-Joseph

Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.