Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Panel tasting results
High scores in a small line-up confirm the 2017 vintage is an excellent one in this well-reputed region that lies to the east of Cape Town.
Malu Lambert, Andy Howard MW and Roger Jones tasted 43 wines, with 1 Exceptional and 7 Outstanding.
Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017: Panel tasting scores
43 wines tasted
Exceptional 1
Outstanding 7
Highly recommended 21
Recommended 14
Commended 0
Fair 0
Poor 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their 2017 vintage red wines made from a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, and produced in the Stellenbosch WO district and/or its wards
This tasting showed off the pedigree of Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch, as well as the nuances of its top wards. The quality was high, with about two-thirds of the wines scoring above 90 points.
Cabernet is the most-planted red grape in South Africa (9,110ha in 2023: SAWIS) and the majority of plantings are in Stellenbosch. The differences can be subtle, but each delineated area has its own discernible character. The Outstanding wines were a reflection of this.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting
Key to the region are the many diverse aspects and altitudes created by mountains. The climate here is Mediterranean/maritime. Some wards are closer to the ocean than others – for example, you can see the blue line of the Atlantic from the Helderberg.
Two of the Outstanding wines were from this easterly section. The best wines from here can present with an innate freshness and a fine tannin structure. ‘Powerful and weighty yet still with lift and balance,’ as Andy Howard MW put it.
Also in the east is Jonkershoek, which boasts a core of shale soils surrounded by granite. All of the judges agreed that the Neil Ellis, Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon was ‘fresh, fresh and fresh’ – a hallmark of the area.
The lofty Banghoek also delivered two of the top wines. In the north of Stellenbosch, the vineyards here go up to about 600m. There’s an elegance and perfume to its best offerings, the vines growing on light soils of sandstone and granite. ‘I love the purity,’ said Roger Jones.
In contrast, a wine from the more ‘muscular’ Simonsberg in the [even further] north also caught our attention. High altitudes here and the high diurnal temperature range and sunlight exposure can imbue ‘depth and freshness’, according to Jones.
Meanwhile Bottelary in the northwest (one Outstanding wine) is generally considered a ‘sunnier’ part of Stellenbosch, meaning the wines here can be fruit-forward and powerful.
See all the wines from the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting
Greater elegance
‘I found the 2017 vintage very impressive and balanced,’ remarked Howard. ‘South African Cabernet wasn’t always as elegant as this. There was [previously] a bit too much oak, and a smoky character.’
An analysis of the wines proves his point: alcohols are moderate for most and the trend is to use less new oak. ‘This vintage is a level up,’ agreed Jones.
Before the drought hit in 2018, the 2017 vintage benefited from the drying conditions. There was very little disease pressure and Cabernet saw uniform ripening with an extended growing season.
Moderate temperatures and cool evenings in February preserved acidity and phenolic ripeness. Yields were lower than usual; however, this ensured greater concentration.
‘South Africa is putting New World Cabernet Sauvignon back onto the map,’ declared Jones. He added that along with Stellenbosch, Margaret River in Western Australia’s and Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand ‘are all pushing for elegance, fruit and restraint’.
There’s also qualitative value to consider. ‘The wines are excellent and are generally mid-priced,’ he said.
‘Although I am hesitant to compare…’ concluded Howard, ‘I would say fine Bordeaux are the nearest to Stellenbosch’s refined style. There’s plenty of interest and many of the 2017s can be cellared until 2035.’
Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 panel tasting scores
Wines were tasted blind
The judges
Malu Lambert is a widely published wine writer based in South Africa. A taster for Platter’s Guide and judge on various panels, she won Emerging Wine Writer of the Year at the 2019 Louis Roederer Wine Writers’ Awards.
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair. A retail wine buyer for more than 30 years, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades, focusing on wine education, judging, investment and sourcing.
Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge, ambassador and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.
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Bartinney, Cabernet Sauvignon, Banghoek, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
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Neil Ellis, Cabernet Sauvignon, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
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Glenelly, Lady May Cabernet Sauvignon, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
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Muratie, Martin Melck Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
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High-toned aromatics of mint and red cherries with ground spice notes. Slender and fresh on the palate, red-fruited with tangy acidity. Juicy mouthfeel with blackberries,...
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Kanonkop, Cabernet Sauvignon, Simonsberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
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Leipzig Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Polkadraai/Devon Valley, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
Aromas of ripe prunes, biltong and date spice evolve into a complex, spicy palate with dried fruit and vibrant orange acidity. Drinking well with blackcurrant...
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Ernie Els, Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
Briny black olives and flint mingle with black plum and cassis. The palate reveals dark fruit with a thread of freshness, herbaceous notes of blueberries,...
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Reyneke, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
Boasting green herb tones, ample pyridine, and cool aromas of liquorice and toast. Nervy, lean, with emerging dried fruit, focused with violet, blueberry notes, and...
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Uva Mira, The Mira Cabernet Sauvignon, Helderberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
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