Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down.
From the cellar
L’Académie du Vin de Tokyo 30th
In 1986 I visited Japan for the first time and the following year saw the creation of l’Académie du Vin de Tokyo, a branch of my Paris wine school. In September I was present at a dinner for 80 guests at the Park Hyatt to celebrate its 30th Anniversary.
With the exception of a deliciously modern Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches 2015 with the first fish course, the four other wines were all from 1987.
We started with a Moutard, Millésime Blanc de Blancs Champagne from the Côte des Bar region – tiny bubbles, still full of elegant vigour. Then Château Montrose, St-Estèphe (2CC), whose deep colour showed no browning at all, the style being recognisably Montrose from the 1980s; classic claret from the past.
Next, with roasted duck breast, was Ridge, Monte Bello served from magnums, young-looking but less dense than the Montrose, showing the warmth of California and ripe yet controlled flavours from old vines.
Finally, with baked grape and almond tart, Château d’Yquem was poured from an imperial (six litres) acquired direct from the château: burnt orange bouquet and burnished gold flavours, incredibly rich texture backed by vibrant acidity – a superb end to a great evening.
For the cellar
Mamba Riedel Decanter Awards
Roger Jones, owner of the Michelin-starred restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn in Wiltshire, is not only a superb chef but totally passionate about wine – particularly those from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
He hosted a tasting of 40 Rieslings and 67 Shirazes from Australia before a splendid dinner, each guest picking their top five wines in each category.
My top two Rieslings were both from Clare Valley – my favourite, also voted best Riesling overall by tasters on the night, was Grosset, Polish Hill, Clare Valley 2016 (£32.99, Liberty), which I noted as ‘classic, understated, lots of potential to 2030’. Jim Barry, The Florita, Clare Valley 2012 (£31.99, Negociants UK) was my runner-up.
Turning to the Shirazes, Penfolds, RWT, Barossa 2010 (£100, Treasury Wine Estates) was the tasters’ favourite on the night, ranked in fourth place by me, my notes being ‘big smoky nose, lots of power and grip’.
My own top-scoring Shiraz was Brokenwood, Graveyard, Hunter Valley 2013 (£95.99, Negociants): ‘superb colour, very good vineyard expression, all in control with Hermitage depth and great length.’
This just pipped Penfolds, St Henri, South Australia 2010 (£70, Treasury Wine Estates), my second favourite.
Three more fine wines for the cellar this month:
