Top 30 carbonic maceration reds

Ask most wine enthusiasts what the term ‘carbonic maceration’ means to them, and the vast majority will think Beaujolais – and almost certainly not the top-tier, cru end of the Beaujolais market. In reality, this is a process that is both intriguing and highly scientific yet misunderstood by many. Having been asked by Decanter to review wines made using carbonic maceration, it quickly became apparent how little I knew about the intricacies of the process. The more I delved into the subject, the greater my appreciation of the differences and variations found in these wines from producers around the world.

Scroll down for Andy Howard MW’s pick of the best 30 carbonic maceration reds from around the world

In simple terms, carbonic maceration or macération carbonique, referred to below as ‘MC’, relates to the process where whole grapes, protected from oxygen (normally under a veil of carbon dioxide) undergo an intra-cellular fermentation due to enzymatic reactions without the action of yeasts.Although this technique has been used, often inadvertently, for thousands of years, it was the 1930s experiments of Michel Flanzy, a French scientist in Narbonne, which showed MC’s potential. It was embraced by producers in the Beaujolais-boom years, becoming synonymous with light, quaffable reds made from the Gamay grape, which exhibited tell-tale aromas and flavours of pear-drops and (when taken to excess) bubblegum.

Unfortunately for both the region and the process, consumers moved away from flavour profiles more akin to a sweet shop than a glass of wine. It is only recently that forward-thinking winemakers are finding ways to adapt MC to craft some fascinating wines.

MC can only be used at the start of the fermentation process, producing up to two degrees of ethanol. Grapes must be intact and healthy, with hand-harvesting of whole bunches a key element in the vineyard. MC has a number of very positive effects on the finished wine, ranging from accentuating different aromatic elements to the conversion (and reduction) of malic acid; increasing levels of glycerol; softer tannin extraction; and bright, ripe, juicy flavours with a freshness that makes wines approachable early on. Scientific studies have shown that glycerol can increase by a factor of 10, with a halving of malic acid levels and increase in pH of 0.2.

Serious intent

However, carbonic maceration should not be exclusively associated with light, fruity, easy-drinking wines, as the technique is now being applied to wines with much higher quality aspirations. Traditionally associated with the Gamay grape and Beaujolais, MC is being embraced by winemakers in Spain, Australia, South Africa and the US, with great results being achieved using Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Pinotage and Pinot Noir.

Josh Bergström, general manager and winemaker at Bergström Wines in Oregon, is an advocate: ‘MC brings a lovely and complex aromatic experience that takes the fresh fruit character from our Willamette Valley and almost “enhances” its youthful charm.’

The impact is not just about flavour and aroma. Bergström notes: ‘There is a textural element that whole-cluster fermentation and carbonic fermentation lends to the wine.’ As a result, Bergström Wines has now developed its own protocol for fermentation of its top-tier Pinot Noir wines.

In Otago, New Zealand, Akitu owner Andrew Donaldson feels the use of MC in Pinot Noir vinification is important. ‘There are lots of phenolics and sugars in the stems that aren’t found in the grape skin or berry. By harnessing these you can add to the phenolic stability of the resulting wine.’ The use of MC and whole bunches ‘encourages a slower build-up of fermentation temperature, resulting in improved tannin polymerisation and development of exciting aromatic compounds’, he says. With age, Akitu Pinot Noir develops a complex, exotic melange of spicy flavours and aromas.

Giles Cooke MW is focusing his South Australian winemaking efforts on innovative, exciting Grenache-based wines. Cooke says MC brings ‘a framework to the Grenache, adds seasoning and restraint’. All of the wines using this technique in his Thistledown range show a great combination of ripeness, generosity of aromatics and fruit, along with an underlying freshness and lightness.

Interestingly, it is not just New World winemakers who are experimenting with MC. An increasing number of carbonic maceration Riojas are starting to appear – a method commonly used in the past. These could hardly be more different to the classical image of an oak-driven Rioja, yet many are of high quality and well worth seeking out.

Carbonic maceration has had a bad press in recent years but, despite being associated with the cheaper end of the Beaujolais market, it is rapidly becoming a serious tool in the kit for innovative producers around the world. Their skilled winemaking uses carbonic maceration to add complexity, accentuate aromas and flavours, while helping manage both acidity and tannins. These are wines to savour, enjoy, and contemplate how science and nature are being combined using this technique.

Pick of the best 30 carbonic maceration reds

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