Top St-Emilion 2018 wines: Re-tasted in bottle
Jane Anson finds St-Emilion to be one of the stand-out appellations after recently tasting hundreds of Bordeaux 2018 wines now they have been bottled, read her summary and see the top-scoring wines.
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Scroll down to see Jane Anson’s St-Emilion 2018 top scorers
See the full Bordeaux 2018 report here
See the individual appellation overview for Pomerol
I have rarely enjoyed the wines from this appellation as much as I did in 2018.
They definitely rival the 2015s and 2016s in St-Emilion, and in most cases the in-bottle scores remained at least the same as they were when I first tasted them 18 months ago. In comparison, several wines from the Médoc were moved down one point.
Maybe the winemakers here have become more accustomed to dealing with excess in a vintage, or maybe they really have changed their winemaking methods to put more emphasis on restraint.
There are lots of value options here also – this appellation was, for me, one of the clear winners of the year, with a number of excellent wines.
The average yield was 42hl/ha, which must also have helped retain the juicy character to the fruits – as well as the limestone soils, that delivered freshness and personality.
Individual yields included:
50hl/ha at Beau-Séjour Becot
49hl/ha at Lassègue
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42hl/ha at Canon
43hl/ha at Cheval Blanc
39hl/ha at Figeac
40hl/ha at Valandraud
47hl/ha at Pavie Macquin
Alcohols were around the 14.5%ABV mark, with a few creeping higher.
Names to look out for:
Les Grands Murailles
Moulin St Georges
Canon la Gaffeliere
Canon
Clos Fourtet
Fleur Cardinale
La Serre
Le Prieuré
Fonplegade
Value picks:
Croix de Labrie
Chateau Laroze
See Jane Anson’s top-scoring St-Emilion 2018 wines
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Château Ausone, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2018

This is deep and ripped, coming out you like a powerhouse, then it stops, tiptoes away, then rises up to slowly stretch out through the...
2018
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Château AusoneSt-Émilion
Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Lovely ripeness on the nose, full of dense Morello cherries and milk chocolate notes, this feels round and just very complete. It has a density...
2018
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Château Cheval BlancSt-Émilion
Château Canon, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

A beautiful Canon that performs the 360-degree trick in your mouth of expanding up, down and out. Of course a little austere right now at...
2018
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Château CanonSt-Émilion
Château Angélus, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2018

In bottle since September, still on the edge of reduction (low sulphur additions at Angélus, particularly as this is the first year of organic conversion)....
2018
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Château AngélusSt-Émilion
Château Bélair-Monange, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Hugely serious; still clearly extremely young. With a gorgeously ripped muscular frame, the fruit is multi-layered and multi-faceted. So much power, with autumnal blackberry and...
2018
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Château Bélair-MonangeSt-Émilion
Clos Fourtet, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

While the 2018 vintage got plenty of buzz, following the less heralded 2017, I remain less enthusiastic when compared to the stellar 2016. The 2018...
2018
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Clos FourtetSt-Émilion
Château La Gaffelière, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

The combination of Cabernet Franc and limestone give this wine both a beautifully floral-laced nose, and a sense of energy and lift as it travels...
2018
BordeauxFrance
Château La GaffelièreSt-Émilion
Château Trotte Vieille, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Extremely concentrated cassis and bilberry fruits, almost Left Bank on the approach (there is a majority of Cabernet in the blend), until the juice and...
2018
BordeauxFrance
Château Trotte VieilleSt-Émilion
Château Fonplégade, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Silky tannins, lovely fresh lift and some menthol powering along through the finish. Brambled fruits, freshly cut and dried herbs, with tons of nuance and...
2018
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Château FonplégadeSt-Émilion
Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

This has the clear edge over La Mondotte for me because it combines the polish and glamour of a St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé with...
2018
BordeauxFrance
Château Canon-la-GaffelièreSt-Émilion
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Blueberry, blackberry, coffee beans, slate, sage and rosemary are layered up here, opening slowly to show a gunsmoke edge. A success en primeur and has...
2018
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Château Beau-Séjour BécotSt-Émilion
Château Valandraud, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Polished gourmet fruit right from the first nose, this is an accomplished and powerful Valandraud that has seductive and appealing notes of burnt caramel and...
2018
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Château ValandraudSt-Émilion
Château La Dominique, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

This has plenty of coffee/mocha edging and generosity, alongside abundant tannins and an enjoyable lift that gives tension and definition. Everything in balance, with a...
2018
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Château La DominiqueSt-Émilion
Château Les Grandes Murailles, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Owned by Mathieu Cuvelier of Clos Fourtet and located right next-door, this has plenty in common with its neighbour. Tons of plum, cherry and raspberry...
2018
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Château Les Grandes MuraillesSt-Émilion
Château Bellefont-Belcier, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Well-located on the limestone slopes near Pavie, this has been under the ownership of Peter Kwok since 2017. Here he delivers a measured wine that...
2018
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Château Bellefont-BelcierSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

An estate that is just doing such good work right now. This was delicious en primeur and for me a little better in bottle. Has...
2018
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château La Serre, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

One of the best in this tasting. Silky and rich, with aromatic black fruits and a complex layering of cut herbs, liquorice and sweet spices....
2018
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Château La SerreSt-Émilion
Clos La Madeleine, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Perhaps not quite as fine as the Bélair-Monange but this is just gorgeous, with deeply textured black and blue fruits, and a spring of limestone...
2018
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Clos La MadeleineSt-Émilion
Château La Clotte, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

Even in the short time that the Vauthiers have been making La Clotte, you can see the depth and precision increasing. This is a little...
2018
BordeauxFrance
Château La ClotteSt-Émilion
Château Quinault L'Enclos, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2018

This is pretty powerful. Extremely tight dark fruits right now - quite a change in profile from a decade ago, now showing brambled blackberries and...
2018
BordeauxFrance
Château Quinault L'EnclosSt-Émilion
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
