Valpolicella Classico: Panel tasting results

From the 60- to 70-year-old vines of a 2ha plot close to the winery, the fruit is chilled before pressing to minimise any risk of oxidation. Cool fermentation maximises aromas prior to maturation for 15 months in large oak barrels. No appassimento (partial air-drying to concentrate sugars, acids and flavour in the grapes) or late harvesting – just perfectly ripe grapes that maintain, above all, good levels of acidity. Michael Garner: Fragrant nose of red fruits with floral inflections. Balanced palate with good acidity and positive flavour development. Stylish. Andrea Briccarello: Dried prunes and red berries; almost jammy and spicy. Round tannins and earthy undertones. Still quite fleshy and meaty. Jason Millar: Nebbiolo-esque nose, mushroom and umami notes over evolved red fruit and leather. Attractive evolution and balance.

From low-density pergola vineyards planted in the 1970s in the San Vito frazione, towards the southern tip of the Negrar valley, Gabriele and Miriam Dalcanale’s regular Classico is a vibrant and juicy example of the simpler style of Valpolicella. Following a brief maceration on the skins, the must is fermented in truncated concrete tanks before about 10% of oak-aged wine from the previous vintage is added to the blend. The intention here is to make the wine immediately accessible and enhance the classic spicy notes of the Corvina grape. Michael Garner: Clean, fresh, forward red fruit aromas with spicy notes. Light but juicy palate with crunchy fresh fruit flavours. Delicious. A classic example. Andrea Briccarello: An array of red fruits, cherry liqueur and summer fruit pudding. Smoky, savoury hints. Long and complex with plenty of vibrant, juicy freshness. Jason Millar: Light, with fresh strawberry, redcurrant and cranberry. Some leafiness and cleansing acidity. Lovely purity. Transparent and honest. Serve chilled with cold cuts.

The 2024 vintage marks the first release of Spada’s La Pergola made in a different way by oenologist Andrea Strada, using a selection of the finest fruit from the Spada family’s 8ha of vineyards in San Pietro in Cariano and Fumane. The wine was made from freshly picked fruit (ie, no appassimento), with about 50% aged briefly in large barrels before blending and bottling. The objective was to produce a wine that focuses above all on sheer drinkability. Our verdict was unequivocal: mission accomplished! Michael Garner: Fresh, spicy nose with liquorice and hedgerow fruits. Generous, ripe fruit backed up by good acidity. More liquorice and peppery spice on the finish. Andrea Briccarello: Plenty of bright cherries and violets. A juicy core and round tannins. Plenty of fleshy fruits and medium intensity. Jason Millar: Strawberry and raspberry with a creamy note. Modern, sherbetty but deftly done. Some fruit sweetness rather than sourness. Accessible, likeable.

Bright, maturing garnet. Fragrant cherry and strawberry aromas, now fully developed. Juicy, with tangy acidity, lively yet fading fruit. Impressively lasting, showing charm, length and a sour, mouthwatering finish.

Pale garnet with dried berries, spice and cola notes over savoury, meaty tones. Fresh yet showing age, a resinous edge and chestnut complexity. Light, balanced and classically styled.

Mature garnet with earthy, savoury depth, cooked cherry and plum over leather and tobacco. Silky, juicy, with lifted acidity, plush texture and a gentle membrillo sweetness to finish.

Bright ruby with crunchy red berries, wild cherry and blueberry over earthy undertones. Juicy and tangy with brisk acidity, firm structure and a sour cherry twist. Refreshingly authentic.

Deep ruby with mocha, dark chocolate, kirsch and earthy undertones. Juicy yet meaty and savoury with gripping tannins, strawberry and dried cherry. Warm and ready, with a modest finish.

Deep ruby with violet, plum and sour cherry notes over earthy, meaty tones. Spicy oak and liquorice add heft to dense dark fruit. Freshness holds in this fleshy, confidently maturing style.

Mature garnet-ruby with violets, rose and morello cherry over warm spice and earthy depth. Modern oak polish meets supple fruit. Energetic, stylish and attractively restrained.

Mature garnet with balsamic, leather, cigar box and charred spice over restrained strawberry and cranberry. Juicy, round with chalky tannins, good acidity and length. Dry, slightly austere finish.

Deep ruby with red flowers, juicy red and black cherries and soft plump berries. Round tannins and fair acidity keep the balance in this ripe, polished, elegantly commercial Valpolicella style.

Deep dark ruby hue with ripe black cherry, plush red forest fruit and a vegetal hint. Meaty, fleshy and rich with round tannins and bright acidity. Harmonious and will improve with time.

Mature garnet with leafy, peppery lift, red and black cherry and a touch of reduction. Earthy, juicy and vibrant with high acidity, good length and a classically ripe, superiore style.

Light garnet with paprika, smoked spice, baked fruit and cherry liqueur, and earthy cinnamon and nutmeg warmth. Juicy, sweet core with fading strawberry jam notes. Elegant, balanced.

Pale, rusty garnet with dried berries, cranberry and prune over earthy, floral and ripe cherry fruit. Supple, juicy and fresh with solid acidity. Fully mature with fig and tobacco. Impressive length.

Dense garnet-ruby with sweet red and black fruit, pepper and charred spice. Slight reduction and a shy palate, but balanced oak, fine tannins and fair acidity. Modern style, enjoyable finish.

Light garnet with violets, liquorice, sour cherry and red flowers, touched by balsamic. Medium weight with developed fruit, fair acidity, some figgy sweetness and overripeness. Balanced.

Ruby with vibrant red berries, sour cherry and crunchy blueberry over a floral lift. Juicy and tangy with round tannins, preserved berry notes and brisk acidity, finishing long and lively.

Light ruby with perfumed red cherry, cedar, cigar and smoked leather over subtle tertiary tones. Juicy with chalky tannins, woodsy spice and an elegant, medium-length finish.

Deep red forest fruit, dark chocolate and mocha over savoury undertones. Juicy and vibrant with sour cherry, subtle pepper spice and a pleasant bite. Elegant, complex and classically styled.

Mature ruby-garnet with sweet spice, red fruit and white pepper over light tertiary tones. Juicy core, round yet firm tannins, robust acidity and a savoury, aromatic finish. Evolving and a touch austere.

Deep ruby with overripe maraschino cherry, liquorice, violet and dried rose over bramble fruit. Gripping tannins and solid structure. Oak is still pronounced. Robust, chunky style.

Light ruby with morello and sour cherry over subtle savoury tones. Balanced and fresh with firm tannins, a juicy finish and a hint of spice. Simple, refreshing and well defined.

Classic cherry and plum with mocha, chocolate and leafy spice. Succulent and glossy, with neat, chalky tannins, savoury vibrancy and a cool, balanced finish. Typically styled and satisfying.

Sour cherry, dried fruit and a touch of reduction. Balanced and juicy, with gripping tannins and subtle notes of mint and caramel. Structured, with fresh lift and classic Valpolicella character.

Ruby with cherry, bergamot, tea and savoury depth. Juicy and well balanced with round tannins, subtle spice and lively freshness. Light yet textural, with gentle complexity.

Mocha, dark forest fruit, spice and earthy undertones. Fresh, poised and modern yet balanced, with good texture and a long, juicy finish, though a hint of volatility adds a rustic touch.

Bright ruby-garnet with meaty, savoury tones, morello cherry, redcurrant and cranberry. Juicy core with round tannins, tangy acidity and spice. Vibrant, highly drinkable, no-nonsense style.

Hints of mushroom, charred pepper and dried flowers over a juicy core of baked plum and ripe red fruit. Light, savoury and fresh, with soft tannins, fair acidity and gentle length.

Light garnet with earthy, meaty tones, dry fruit and juicy cherry flavours. Fragrant and charming though slightly oxidative, with modest acidity and depth. Jam and kirsch hints on the finish.