Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 and 2017: Top wines

Drought-like conditions that afflicted regions throughout Italy in 2017 were just as extreme for the producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano in southern Tuscany.

‘2017 made me aware of how important the combination of water and life is,’ says Matteo Giustiniani, CEO and oenologist at Avignonesi.

To recap this cruel year, the challenges started in spring. Due to warm temperatures early on, vine growth was well underway when nighttime temperatures suddenly dropped below 0°C between 19 and 21 April, damaging the nascent shoots. Alessandro Sartini, owner of Il Molinaccio, estimates a 15%-20% loss in production due to frost, a figure that’s echoed throughout the region.

As the vines tried to recover from this shock, the dry and hot weather settled in. The heat wave reached its zenith in August with daytime temperatures climbing to a scorching 40°C. At the same time, rainfall was a mere 5mm for the month.

Water management

‘We did everything possible in the vineyard to preserve water,’ says Gracciano della Seta’s winemaker Giuseppe Rigoli. Crucial work involved managing the vine canopy to shade the grapes and working the soil to avoid water evaporation.

Nevertheless, water reserves fell to critical levels evidenced by a loss of foliage and dehydration of clusters. ‘You had the impression that the vine shut down its vegetative cycle in favour of concentrating salts and polyphenols,’ explains Giustiniani.

Many producers removed bunches to help balance the vine and reduce stress. ‘We did two pre-harvests,’ says Luca De Ferrari proprietor of Boscarelli. ‘One at the end of August to lighten the plant’s load, then another at the end of September to remove cooked bunches.’

Reprieve arrived in September. Temperatures dropped by 7° to 8°C and a handful of rainstorms during the first three weeks of the month replenished reserves. ‘This gave a big hand to the grapes, hydrating them and even diluting sugars, so the alcohol wasn’t exaggerated,’ asserts Andrea Natalini, owner of Podere Le Bèrne.

Most producers harvested earlier than usual – by about 10 to 15 days. Yields were down substantially, with both Le Bèrne and Boscarelli quoting a 50% reduction overall. And everyone brought in small, concentrated berries.

An austere vintage

In terms of the wines, vintage conditions amplified Montepulciano’s propensity towards austerity. The wines tend to demonstrate less nuance of Sangiovese’s gorgeous range of perfume. They are substantial, though not necessarily rich. In some cases, over extraction and/or extended time in oak have resulted in dry, angular tannins. The most structured wines need to resolve but likely won’t gain in grace. Generally, the 2017 Vino Nobile will be best over the next three to eight years.

Nevertheless, even in a tough vintage, Montepulciano continues to show signs of improvement. There are some very good wines and these are a credit to the tireless work in the vineyard and skill in the cellar. The best producers coaxed out appealing aromas, retained freshness and managed to balance tannins. As usual, I tasted most of these wines blind. The cream always rises to the top and it is typically the same producers, though more are joining their ranks.

Alongside the 2017s, producers trotted out their riservas from the more obviously charming 2016 vintage. These are not necessarily better than the regular offerings of 2016 vino nobile. Those that stood out highlighted the elegance and balance of the vintage. While tasting these, I repeatedly heard comparisons made between the 2016 and 2018 vintages. Indeed, I tried some lovely 2018 Rosso di Montepulciano which bodes well for next year’s release of the vino nobile.

Michaela Morris’ top Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 and 2017 wines

See also: 

Brunello di Montalcino 2015: Full report and top wines

Great Chianti Classico wines from 2015 and 2016