Loire 2021 red wines: vintage report and new releases
Jim Budd reports on 'the most difficult vintage since 2013,' which sees the Loire's red wines return to 'a fresher, more traditional style'. See his top 31 wines, from 2021 and 2020, to drink now.
The pattern for Loire reds in 2021 is similar to the whites. Initially there were some cold periods over the first part of winter, followed by rising temperatures in mid-February that continued into March, causing early bud-break.
Once again producers were faced with a series of spring frosts starting in late March, continuing into the first part of April. This series of frosts accumulated in severe crop loss similar to that of the infamous 1991 frost, which was a result of just one harsh night. Exceptionally, even Sancerre, which often escapes frost, was badly hit in 2021.
Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 31 top Loire red wines from 2020 and 2021
A fine autumn
Just as in 1991, the weather was cold after the frosts so the vines were slow to recover, reducing the number of second-generation bunches. The flowering was patchy and a wet summer provoked mildew.
Xavier Frissant, a winemaker in Touraine-Amboise, said: ‘In 2021 we made just 15hl/ha due to the frosts and poor flowering, especially for the Côt [Malbec], and mildew then caused further considerable damage.’
Fortunately, as so often happens in the Loire, a fine September and October with a drying wind from the east saved the vintage, with producers often surprised by the quality. Picking for the early red varieties started around 20 September, while harvesting for the Cabernet Franc started around the beginning of October and continued well into the month as the good weather allowed producers to wait for optimum maturity.
See Jim Budd’s Loire 2021 white wine report here
Loire red wine 2021: top producers
- Baudry-Dutour
- Clos Roussely
- Domaine de la Bonnelière
- Domaine de la Noblaie
- Lionel Gosseaume – Domaine de Pierre
At the time of tasting, many wines were yet to be bottled and released.
What to look out for in Loire 2021 reds
Although it is still relatively early days, my impression is that Gamay and Cabernet Franc have been more successful than Pinot Noir, where a very careful selection of grapes was essential.
This was confirmed by Florent Pinard, of the Vincent Pinard domaine in Sancerre: ‘For both our whites and reds we had to select the grapes we used very carefully. However, quality-wise we are fairly happy with the result, similar in style to 2014.’
In Chinon, Jean-Martin Dutour of Baudry-Dutour said: ‘Despite the small crop we are very happy with the reds; due to the fine September our Cabernet Franc reached 12.5% alcohol and was phenolically ripe.’
Loire red wine 2021: value picks
- Domaine de la Bonnelière, Tradition, Saumur-Champigny 2021
- Lionel Gosseaume, Domaine de Pierre Les Marcottes Gamay, Touraine 2021
- Domaine des Rochelles, L’Ardoise, Anjou Rouge 2021
- Domaine des Rochelles, Malbec, Val de Loire 2021
The small crop has forced some producers, such as Jean-Marie Bourgeois of Famille Bourgeois, to make difficult choices: ‘We didn’t make any red in 2021, choosing to make rosé instead.’ On the other hand, some, like Domaine Fouassier in Sancerre, chose not to make rosé in 2021. François Crochet made just one cuvée of his red Sancerre.
In a difficult vintage like 2021, the good producers have benefitted from the way they work in the vineyards and from making the right decisions during the fermentation and maturation processes. As with the whites, there is a considerable range of quality, with some wines lacking ripe fruit and displaying green tannins.
Of the producers who have made attractive reds, these are less powerful with lower alcohol levels than recent vintages, with more noticeable acidity – more like the traditional profile of Loire reds.
With their strong acid line, these well made 2021 reds, like the whites, should age well – provided they have enough fruit character to balance the acidity. It was very important to pick when the tannins were ripe, to treat them gently during fermentation, and not to leave them too long on the skins.
Know your Loire red vintages
2017: Once again spring frosts reduced the crop but less severe than 2016. Fourth successive good quality red vintage with balance and finesse. 5/5
2018: A rare frost-free very hot vintage with often high levels of alcohol up to 15%. More successful than whites with some very good reds, especially those from fruit picked before they became over-ripe. These should age very well. 5/5
2019: Another frost-affected but high quality vintage 5/5
2020: Hot but good vintage with often concentrated, ripe whites some with very high alcohols up to 15%. However, there is more freshness and balance than 2018. Some top cuvées yet to be released. 5/5.
2021: Most difficult vintage since 2013 with a small crop due to spring frosts, mildew and poor flowering for some varieties. Overall quality better than feared – return to a fresher more traditional Loire style. Some attractive reds but also there are some thin and mean examples. 3/5
Jim Budd’s top Loire reds from 2020 and 2021:
Related content:
New release Loire reds: the best from 2019 and 2020
10 top-rated Cabernet Francs from around the world worth seeking out
Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, 2020
Dense and powerfully black fruited, this has some wood notes, good ripe tannins and a long finish. This is a lovely wine and is only...
2020
Château de VilleneuveSaumur-Champigny
Vincent Pinard, Rouge, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2020
This remarkable 2020 is their 'basic' red Sancerre. This deep coloured wine has ripe black fruit notes with a lovely opulent mouth-filling texture. The tannins...
2020
Vincent PinardSancerre
Domaine de la Butte, Le Haut de la Butte, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2020
The well-balanced 2020 Le Haut de la Butte is aged in oak barriques. It has black cherry and blackberry aromas, a ripe and full texture,...
2020
Domaine de la ButteBourgueil
Domaine la Croix St Laurent, Rouge, Sancerre, Loire, France, 2020
Notes of black fruits including black cherry, raspberries and some delicate wood notes with a rich texture and a long finish. This fine Sancerre red...
2020
Domaine la Croix St LaurentSancerre
Antoine Sanzay, La Paterne, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, 2020
Youthful purple in colour, with seductive black fruit aromas, especially black cherry, a lovely soft opulent texture and ripe tannins. This is a delicious wine...
2020
Antoine SanzaySaumur-Champigny
Domaine de la Noblaie, Les Chiens Chiens, Chinon, Loire, France, 2020
Black fruit aromas along with some light wood notes, supple mouth-filling texture, ripe tannins and good length with good ageing potential. Les Chiens Chiens comes...
2020
Domaine de la NoblaieChinon
Domaine des Pothiers, Domaine, Côte Roannaise, Loire, France, 2020
Vibrant and rich, this has attractive spicy black fruits, good length and has the potential to develop further in bottle. Domaine des Pothiers, in the...
2020
Domaine des PothiersCôte Roannaise
Domaine Yannick Amirault, Le Grand Clos, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2020
The still very youthful, dense 2020 has powerful, ripe black fruits, a rich texture and a long finish. The organic Domaine Yannick Amirault was established...
2020
Domaine Yannick AmiraultBourgueil
Jean-François Mérieau, Le Bois Jacou, Touraine, Loire, France, 2020
A powerful, deep coloured wine made using carbonic maceration. It has sweet, spicy black fruits and a marked Gamay character, good structure with ripe tannins...
2020
Jean-François MérieauTouraine
Domaine de Bablut, Petra Alba, Anjou-Villages Brissac, Loire, France, 2020
Dense and powerful, this is still very youthful. It has concentrated rich black fruits and a long finish. Ir needs time to knit together fully...
2020
Domaine de BablutAnjou-Villages Brissac
Domaine Xavier & Agnes Amirault, Clos de la Gaucherie, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2020
Ripe and black-fruited with good texture, although the wine is still quite tannic, needing more time in bottle. Good potential to age. The winery of...
2020
Domaine Xavier & Agnes AmiraultBourgueil
Baudry-Dutour, Domaine de la Perrière, Chinon, Loire, France, 2020
Black fruit aromas and an opulent texture, with medium structure and good ripe tannins. Although not a heavy weight, the 2020 will age a surprising...
2020
Baudry-DutourChinon
Clos Roussely, Irréductible, Vin de France, Loire, France, 2021
Irréductible is 100% Pineau d’Aunis, whose light, peppery charms have become fashionable. The juicy, easy drinking 2021 has attractive peppery aromas. Light-bodied, this is a...
2021
Clos RousselyVin de France
Couly-Dutheil, Les Gravières d'Amadour Abbé de Turpenay, Chinon, Loire, France, 2020
With its vibrant, youthful purple hue, this is full of black fruit aromas, with a ripe fruit texture and slightly grippy tannins, so needs a...
2020
Couly-DutheilChinon
Domaine des Rabichattes, Le Pavillon, Côtes de la Charité, Loire, France, 2020
This medium-bodied 2020 has attractive aromas of ripe fruit – red cherry and strawberry – with some smoky wood notes and ripe tannins. The 23ha...
2020
Domaine des RabichattesCôtes de la Charité
Domaine la Bonnelière, Tradition, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, 2021
This charming and well balanced 2020 Tradition comes from 20-year-old vines. It sees no wood and has attractive smoky Cabernet Franc aromas, some structure with...
2021
Domaine la BonnelièreSaumur-Champigny
Lamé Delisle Boucard, Domaine des Chesnaies Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2020
Smoky red fruits aromas, followed by a decent mouth-filling texture. It’s medium-bodied with ripe tannins, although the wine needs more time in bottle to show...
2020
Lamé Delisle BoucardBourgueil
Jean-François Mérieau, Cent Visages, Touraine, Loire, France, 2020
This powerful wine is deep coloured with concentrated black fruits along with notes of violets and prunes. It is still tight in the finish and...
2020
Jean-François MérieauTouraine
Cellier du Beaujardin, Domaine des 7 Lieues, Touraine, Loire, France, 2020
The Domaine des 7 Lieues Côt (Malbec) is a successful, very good value wine from Beaujardin, as the 2020 underlines. Deep coloured, it has black...
2020
Cellier du BeaujardinTouraine
Clos Roussely, Canaille, Touraine, Loire, France, 2020
Appealing red fruit and spicy aromas, an attractive mouth-filling texture balanced with refreshing acidity. This is a good, easy drinking summer red. The dynamic and...
2020
Clos RousselyTouraine
Domaine Cady, Cabernet Franc, Anjou, Loire, France, 2021
Red fruit aromas with some sooty notes, this is medium-bodied with an attractive texture and ripe, well handled tannins. This is a good example of...
2021
Domaine CadyAnjou
Domaine de la Noblaie, Le Temps des Cerises, Chinon, Loire, France, 2020
Le Temps des Cerises is the domaine’s easy drinking cuvée de printemps. It’s got ripe black fruit aromas including notes of black cherry, and has...
2020
Domaine de la NoblaieChinon
Lionel Gosseaume, Domaine de Pierre Les Marcottes, Touraine, Loire, France, 2021
A youthful and vibrant 2021 that has spicy Gamay notes and a medium structure. It needs a little more time to show its best. Lionel...
2021
Lionel GosseaumeTouraine
Château de Targé, Clos St Père, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, 2020
Designed to be an easy drinking Saumur-Champigny, it spends just six days on the skins and is bottled in the spring. It has ripe, red...
2020
Château de TargéSaumur-Champigny
Desprat Saint-Verny, Warm-Up Syrah Volcanique, Puy-de-Dôme, Loire, France, 2020
This is aged for 12 months in barriques and has attractive spice and wood aromas along with some sweet, ripe fruit. Still young, this needs...
2020
Desprat Saint-VernyPuy-de-Dôme
Domaine des Bérioles, Auvernat, Saint-Pourçain, Loire, France, 2020
A mid-plum coloured, powerful 2020 that has soft red fruit aromas and is well balanced, although it needs a little more time in bottle to...
2020
Domaine des BériolesSaint-Pourçain
Domaine de Reuilly, Les Fossiles, Reuilly, Loire, France, 2021
Light in colour with red fruits aromas and notes of raspberry. Lightly structured but there are some quite dry tannins that need time to soften....
2021
Domaine de ReuillyReuilly
Domaine des Rochelles, L'Ardoise, Anjou, Loire, France, 2021
This has a really pleasing texture with quite a tannic structure, so needs either some more time in bottle to soften or strong flavoured food...
2021
Domaine des RochellesAnjou
Les Vignerons de Saint-Pourçain, La Ficelle de Saint-Pourçain, Saint-Pourçain, Loire, France, 2021
A soft wine with typical spicy Gamay aromas. This is an uncomplicated, light-bodied wine that should be served lightly chilled. Les Vignerons de Saint-Pourçain was...
2021
Les Vignerons de Saint-PourçainSaint-Pourçain
Château Pierre-Bise, Schistes, Anjou-Villages, Loire, France, 2020
Red fruit and smoky aromas, good texture, medium weight with currently quite grippy tannins, so needs time to soften. This Schistes Anjou-Villages cuvée comes from...
2020
Château Pierre-BiseAnjou-Villages
Domaine des Rochelles, Malbec, Val de Loire, Loire, France, 2021
Grown on schist, the easy drinking 2020 Côt (Malbec), which is an IGP Val de Loire, is soft and juicy with some light tannins. Best...
2021
Domaine des RochellesVal de Loire
