Yangarra: McLaren Vale Grenache success applied to Shiraz

Critical acclaim with his single-block Grenache from the Yangarra estate vineyard in McLaren Vale has inspired winemaker Peter Fraser to follow suit with Shiraz, transforming the wines beyond a more typical Australian expression.

With each parcel of Shiraz, Fraser minimises extraction and gently works the tannins through minimal pump-overs during fermentation, to relax their overt influence and emphasise suppleness on the palate.

His results are evident in two Yangarra single-site Shirazes: King’s Wood (sourced from a 2.3ha block planted on sand and ironstone) and Ironheart (a 1.8ha block planted on gravelly ironstone at higher elevation).

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the new releases from Yangarra

‘The different sites definitely produce significantly different flavours but capturing their elegance largely depends on what you choose to do – and what not to do – in the winery,’ says Fraser.

Maturing these fruit parcels in ceramic eggs and concrete amphorae has been integral in helping him create a more relaxed tannin profile in Yangarra’s wines, while simultaneously emphasising textural complexity.

Fraser prefers to pick early, to capture an electric tension between sweet and tart flavours, while fermentation on skins for extended periods ensures great textural quality.

Introducing higher percentages of whole bunches amplifies prettiness in the aromas, while the slender wine structure is elegant without sacrificing full flavour. ‘We’re heightening nuance by speaking in a softer but no less deliberate voice,’ he says.

‘It all adds up to a sum of exciting parts.’

These style changes were first introduced in Yangarra’s top McLaren Vale Grenache bottlings, which include three single-site wines. High Sands (sourced from a 1.7ha block) and Ovitelli (fermented in large ceramic eggs and left on skins for 170 days) have now been joined by Hickinbotham. This features fruit sourced from Yangarra’s sibling estate, Hickinbotham Vineyard at nearby Clarendon – both owned by California giant Jackson Family Wines – and matured on skins in stone amphoras for 156 days.

Jackson Family Wines is most famous for its flagship winery Kendall-Jackson, but it is actually an umbrella company for more than 40 wineries spread across the US, South Africa, Chile, France, Italy and Australia – where it also owns Giant Steps in Victoria’s Yarra Valley.

New white wines

Fraser’s success with red wine ferments in ceramic vessels has also led to a pair of intriguing white wines, also from Rhône varieties. The first is Yangarra’s Roux Beaute Roussanne, beautifully textured yet taut, left on skins for 134 days and fermented in large ceramic eggs.

The new Ovitelli Blanc blends Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Piquepoul and Bourboulenc from vines planted in 2018, along with some older Roussanne. The inaugural 2020 vintage also saw some parcels see up to 126 days’ maturation on skins as well as ceramic egg fermentation.

With vine age and larger yields, future vintages of Ovitelli Blanc will see the percentages of the different varieties change, along with how the individual parcels are handed in the winery. ‘It’s an exciting prospect, especially to be working with Grenache Blanc,’ says Fraser. ‘I can see that variety’s fresh, crunchy apple flavour becoming a defining factor in the blend.’

This year has started well for Yangarra. The estate owns 24% of McLaren Vale’s red Grenache vines that are at least 70 years old, and yields were so prolific in 2022 that it sold some top parcels to fellow McLaren Vale Grenache specialist labels Thistledown and Aphelion.

Useful extra income, as a lavish new cellar door facility is under construction on the Yangarra property, adjacent to the winery building. Opening in late 2022, it will offer a selection of tasting experiences, including the full range of Yangarra single block and Hickinbotham Estate wines.

New releases from Yangarra: Grenache, Shiraz and Rhône-style whites

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