Monemvasia Winery – Tsimbidi: bringing an ancient wine into the modern age

Wind the clock back to the Middle Ages and Monemvasia stood at the crossroads of trade between East and West. ‘The story of Malvasia is the story of wine as it travelled around the Mediterranean, and it all began in the dramatic rocky Byzantine town of Monemvasia-Malvasia,’ explains specialist Caroline Gilby MW. The town in the south-eastern Peloponnese was a coastal stronghold, with its fortified port welcoming ships from throughout the Mediterranean Sea.

Those strong trade links also put the town’s signature wine on the Medieval map. As far back as the 12th century, the visiting Franks named the local sun-dried or liasto wine ‘Malvasia’ after Monemvasia, underlining the Greek port’s role as the famous wine’s birthplace. The Ottoman invasion in the 16th century ended generations of winemaking.

Fast forward to today and Monemvasia-Malvasia is retaking its place on the global stage. That success is down in no small part to one local family. According to Gilby: ‘it is particularly special to meet a family like the Tsimbidis, welcoming but humble people, who have poured so much energy into research and fighting bureaucracy to recreate the historic wine that started it all, close to their home village.’

A passion project with national significance

George and Elli Tsimbidi founded their eponymous Monemvasia Winery in 1997 as a love song to their local region and its special grapes. Their years of research, development, and hard work were rewarded in 2010 when Monemvasia-Malvasia was awarded Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, recognising the unique link between the wine and its coastal location. The first wine was bottled in 2013 after two years of ageing.

Giorgos and Elli worked with the Greek Wine Institute, the Agricultural Universities of Athens and Thessaloniki, and Dr Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona – known as ‘the Malvasia lady’ and ‘the grand dame of Greek wine’ for her contributions to the country’s wine industry – to revive Monemvasia-Malvasia.

The result is a wine made from grapes that have been dried in the sun on the ground or on racks for approximately 15 days (depending on weather conditions), evaporating the water and concentrating the sugars. Monemvasia’s position, surrounded by the Myrtoan Sea, provides cooling breezes to help the grapes retain their acidity. That freshness is reflected in the finished sweet wine, balancing its flavours of dried fruit, caramel, nuts, and coconut.

Going beyond Monemvasia-Malvasia

'At the same time as producing this amazing bottled history, they have rescued almost forgotten grapes like the original Monemvasia, Kydonitsa and Asproudes, giving them a new life through precise modern winemaking,’ adds Gilby. The dry white version of Monemvasia delivers citrus fruit, stone fruit, and wildflower notes that pair with grilled fish and aged cheeses. In a similar vein, the Assyrtiko yields peach, lemon, and grapefruit to balance its high acidity and distinctive minerality.

The rare Kydonitsa variety brings an enticing mix of tropical fruits, bergamot, apple, geranium, and quince to the party. Its aged sibling, Kydonitsa Mature, spends three years in its bottle, developing aromas of citrus peel, dried herbs, and sourdough, leading into tongue-tingling quince, apricot, and smokiness on the palate.

Alongside the whites, the 300 Red – made from a blend of Agiorgitiko and Mavroudi – produces a heady mix of red and black fruits of the forest, dried flowers, spices, herbs, and oak, thanks to its two years of barrel ageing.

Discover more about Monemvasia Winery

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