Pago de Tharsys – Pioneering classicism

The origins of Pago de Tharsys date back to 1808, when its original cellar was excavated into the limestone bedrock. In 1991, when Ana Suria and Vicente García rebuilt the property, the modern history of Tharsys began: an exciting revival that ushered the estate to the 21st as one of the region’s leading producers. Today, Pago de Tharsys has a group of talented women at its helm, infusing the estate’s wines with feminine strength.

Traditional pioneers

Pago de Tharsys’ philosophy was developed through three main values: tradition, sustainability and innovation. The company’s ethos is founded upon a deep connection with the land and history of Utiel-Requena, but also a relentless commitment to innovation, searching for novels ways to express the character of its grapes. Not least the region’s flagship variety, Bobal, of which Pago de Tharsys produces one of the few (if not the only) blanc de noirs traditional method sparkling. Further to this, the producer has also pioneered the Vinos de Pago classification in the region of Requena and the strict commitment to sustainability, having been among the first to apply organic methods.

The specific location of Pago de Tharsys is itself a privileged natural asset: 12 hectares (all of which certified organic) growing on limestone, facing east and south, and surrounded by woodland, which moderates temperature and prevents external contaminations. This terroir yields fruit of incredible balance and minerality, both trademarks of Pago de Tharsys’ wines.

In the vineyard, as in the cellar, two fundamental principles are followed: respect and observation. It is by listening to the needs of the vines and by nurturing the natural resources of the estate that the wines are shaped into being what the grapes demand from them.

Focused diversity

The different collections that form the range of Pago de Tharsys are themselves a reflection of the values that lead the company, and of the continues willingness to experiment.

The estate’s historical, and most classical collection, named after its founder Carlota (Ana) Suria, is a modern interpretation of tradition, with concentration, poise and subtle use of oak. Tharsys City, on the other hand, is a decisively contemporary interpretation of the D.O. Utiel-Requena. With the native Bobal and Macabeo as the main varieties, these are uncomplicated, transparent wines, perfect for relaxed everyday drinking.

Pago de Tharsys has also introduced a new line up of ‘natural wines’, fermented spontaneously and bottled without any addition of sulphur. It currently includes three single-varietal wines – Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Merseguera – with a strong textural character and aromatic expressiveness.

The all-female leadership team that steers Pago de Tharsys today is the perfect representation of the sense of identity that runs across all of the estate’s wines, with its powerful elegance, pragmatic approachability and straightforward complexity. This could also be used to describe the welcoming spirit with which the estate’s team receives guests for tastings, night harvest and overnight stays at the on-site hotel.

Three Pago de Tharsys wines to know:

Tasted and reviewed by the Decanter team

Único Cerámica Blanc de Negre Brut Gran Reserva, 2018

Alc 12%; 100% Bobal

An expressive and elegant traditional method sparkling made from Bobal grapes. A Blanc de Noirs in all its glory, making the most of the variety’s crunchy red fruit and elegant acidity. Topped by delicious herbal nuances and zesty vibrancy. Good persistence with a mineral pull.

Carlota Suria Organic Bobal, 2019

Alc 13.5%; 100% Bobal

Beautiful fruit definition, as expected from grapes hailing from centennial vineyards. Having spend ten months in French oak barrels, the wood is very well integrated, adding smokey nuances to the crunchy red cherries, plum and cranberries. The tannic have an assertive, traditional grip. Good persistence, lively acidty and a delicious blood orange twist to the finish.

Cabernet Franc Vino Natural, 2018

Alc 14%; 100% Cabernet Franc

Such a particular and interesting take on Cabernet Franc, quite unique without losing varietal expressiveness. Balancing the intense dark fruit and trademark dried herbs characters, one finds enveloping cherry yoghurt and milk chocolate. This creaminess is offset by lively acidity and a spicy finish.