Plaimont: Building the future of Saint Mont

Founded in 1979 as a merger of Plaisance du Gers, Aignan and Saint Mont cooperatives, Plaimont became a force of viticultural, historical and architectural preservation supported by unparalleled investment in research and innovation. The ‘super cooperative’ has set a benchmark of social sustainability while developing an unrivaled range of wines that marry sense of place, heritage and fresh modernity.

Future-proofing

The viticultural challenges in the age of climate change are painfully at odds with what the next generation of drinkers seeks in a bottle: freshness, lower alcohol levels, elegance. It’s at the crossroads of these conflicting demands that Plaimont finds both its greatest challenges and its most exciting opportunities – especially when it comes to its AOC Saint Mont range, whose evolution is inextricably linked with Plaimont’s pioneering ampelographic and climate resilience research.

A comparative look at two recent, contrasting vintages of Plaimont’s Saint Mont wines – 2021 and 2023 – reveals how the cooperative is succeeding at preserving freshness and structural focus while making wines that capture the essence of the AOC and its indigenous varieties. Plaimont has indeed worked hard to reintroduce genetic diversity both in the vineyards and in legal frameworks; preserving unique plant material while lobbying to reintroduce ‘forgotten’ varieties in the list of AOC approved grapes – not least Tardif, painstakingly recovered by Plaimont from quasi-oblivion, and finally bottled with the AOC Saint Mont stamp in 2024.

Approachable longevity

Assessing the 2021 (a lean, cooler vintage) and 2023 (a classical, warm year) underscores the essence of Saint Mont which lies beneath the subtle nuances of each growing cycle. Although richer in orchard fruit, the 2023 retains incredible acid drive and vegetal notes. In the 2021s, the latter has started to metamorphose into the herbal and nutty notes that make Saint Mont wines so worth the wait. These are wines that, despite their approachability and inherent freshness, benefit from time in bottle and reward patience. Balance and energy are being preserved through an increased understanding of how different grapes perform across a range of soils and exposures, using blends of varieties and plots to arrive at consistently vivid wines – highlighting the Pyrenean foothills as a region for the future.

The evolution of Saint Mont is being forged at the intersection of heritage preservation and thoughtful forecasting: an approach that is relentlessly true to Plaimont’s founding belief that nothing is more contemporary than tradition.

Eight wines to discover AOC Saint Mont

Grande Cuvée Tradition 2023

90pts

Vibrant, with outstanding verve, this is a wine in its infancy: bursting with lime zest and freshly cut grass. There’s a delicious bite of apple peel and crunchy pear holding the mid-palate and adding texture throughout.

Alc 12.5%

Grande Cuvée Tradition 2021

91pts

A quintessential expression of Saint Mont, showing its remarkable potential to age in bottle. Nuanced and subtly unctuous. Notes of dried hay, linden and white truffle, lined with a delicious salinity. Long finish with a hint of lemongrass.

Alc 12.5%

Les Cépages Préservés 2023

91pts

This white wine is all about texture and nuance, layering meaty blanched almonds, notes of fleshy apricot and nectarine and gossamer salinity. Vibrant and energetic on the finish, with a twist of fresh parsley and lime zest.

Alc 12%

Les Cépages Préservés 2021

92pts

There’s something akin to a classical Mâcon in this wine, with its robust acid backbone coated in subtle wet stone freshness and fragrant clementine zest. Moreish bite to the palate. Grapefruit pith, gooseberry, rhubarb and greengage mingle playfully and linger on the grippy finish.

Alc 12%

Les Vignes Retrouvées 2023

92pts

It’s certainly not by chance that this is the best-selling wine in France. Delivering equal amounts of zesty linearity, phenolic pull and creamy moreishness. Clementine, pink grapefruit, Asia pear peel and white peach fill the mouth, sprinkled subtly with white pepper and nutmeg.

Alc 12.5%

Projoe 2023

92pts

Fermented and aged in foudres, there’s an approachable elegance here, weaving creamy blanched almonds, fleshy orchard fruit, dry hay and spicy nuances. A perfect introduction to Saint Mont, approachable, round and soft, with flakey saltiness balanced by creamy citrus.

Alc 12.5%

Cépages d’Auteurs, Tannat Tardif 2024

92pts

A joyous summer red with such energy and dangerous drinkability. The Tannat was merely ‘infused’, adding flavour but minimal tannic charge. Cherry, cranberry, blueberry and blood orange, with a vibrant spicy lining, delivered on a creamy bed of cherry sorbet. Enjoy slightly chilled.

Alc 12.5%

Tardif, Atelier des Cépages 2022

94pts

Using fruit from two selected plots, this benchmark expression of barrel-aged Tardif shows the variety’s potential for balance and energy even in one of the hottest vintages on record. Mineral, spicy tannins frame sour cherry, cranberry and plum, with smoky nuances in the background.

Alc 13%

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All wines were tasted non-blind and were supplied to Decanter free of charge to feature in paid-for content.