Remírez de Ganuza – My perfect pairing, with Pedro Subijana

A true pioneering and creative force, Pedro Subijana’s craftsmanship is matched by a unique ability to advocate for and educate about the wonderful world of food, wine and hospitality. Along with Juan Mari Arzak, he was one of the fathers of modern Basque Cuisine, the movement that firmly established Euskadi as one of the world’s food capitals in the 1970s.

Born in Donostia – San Sebastián, the chef started his career in Madrid after earning a degree from the capital’s leading hospitality school. In 1975, Subijana and his wife Ada Pinter, took over the Akelarre restaurant in Igeldo (Donostia) in what became the foundation of a stellar, and very personal, trajectory as a chef, entrepreneur, educator and communicator. Almost half a century later, the Akelarre project now encompasses a three Michelin stars restaurant, a spa and a boutique hotel. Having earned multiple national and international awards along the way, Subjiana always remained committed to sharing his knowledge and passion. The chef takes great pleasure in the multiple academic and training commitments he’s nurtured along the way, not least at ‘Aula de Cocina’, a space for research and development at Akelarre.

This endless curiosity and restless creativity are what best defines Subijana and his cuisine. He found kindred spirits in the Remírez de Ganuza team, with whom he’s had a close relationship since the estate’s inception. ‘It’s always been an innovative, pioneering project,’ says Subjiana, ‘and they continue to question themselves, always striving to improve and learn, in the same way we do. I see myself in their nonconformity.’ It’s therefore not by chance that Akelarre lists Remírez de Ganuza’s full range and welcomes hotel guests with a bottle of Fincas de Ganuza in their bedroom upon arrival.

Pedro Subijana’s perfect pairing

Pura Gamba Roja en Esencia y Pomelo Rosa

(Essence of pure red prawn, and pink grapefruit)

A creation based on one of the chef’s ‘fetiche sea ingredients’, with raw red prawn and an intense sauce made from its heads. The pink grapefruit – a fruit Subijana is also passionate about – provides characterful contrast.

Paired with

Remírez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva 2019

Viura and a small percentage of other local varieties. 13.5% abv

The fruit hails from selected parcels with an average age of 60 years. Fermented and aged for eight months in new French oak on its lees. The latter are stirred by manually turning the barrels, a system unique to the winery that replaces traditional bâtonnage, lending soft complexity, structure and delicate creaminess. Subijana explains that ‘the prawn brings a saline touch while the grapefruit adds an electrical energy. The dish dances in the palate thanks to the citrus aromas, evoking those of the wine.’