Aerial view of the San Sano estate.
Aerial view of the San Sano estate.
(Image credit: Antinori)

On Monday 10 September, at the historic Villa Antinori Cigliano, Marchese Piero Antinori announced the addition of three new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines to the Antinori range.

‘When you speak of Chianti Classico it is music to my ears,’ he said. ‘Chianti Classico is part of the DNA of the Antinori family and the company. Sixty years ago, when I took over the handling of the company, Chianti Classico was the most important wine we made.

‘We later became seen as protagonists of the SuperTuscans but in reality, and now more than ever, we are attached to Chianti Classico.’

Four wines were tasted: Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from the San Donato in Poggio UGA (released in July 2024), and three new wines yet to be launched on to the market:

Buiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from the Castellina UGA

Villa del Cigliano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from the San Casciano UGA

San Sano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from the Gaiole UGA.

It is expected that the new wines will be launched together in the next six months, at an estimated retail price of €100 -€150.

Identity

The Gran Selezione classification, introduced in 2014 as a step above Chianti Classico Riserva, stipulates that all grapes must be grown by the estate. The introduction of 11 sub-zones or Additional Geographic Units (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA) in July 2023 adds to the quality hierarchy. Gran Selezione wines with a UGA on the label must be sourced exclusively from the named UGA.

These wines come from four very different sites. Antinori’s CEO, Renzo Cotarella and his team have gone out of their way to tailor the winemaking process to each wine, using a different approach for each. ‘We wanted to express and underline the differences of the individual vineyard sites we have in Chianti Classico,’ said Cotarella. ‘The goal was to produce a wine from a 100% Sangiovese with an identity of the place.’

Marchesi Antinori is one of the few companies that has its own vineyards in several sub-zones of Chianti Classico and hence the wines can represent different UGA. For the moment, quantities of these wines will be small – 5,000-6,000 bottles each – but the hope is to increase this to 20,000 bottles for each wine.

The Antinori family spearheaded the renaissance of Tuscan wine in the early 1970s. Its contribution to the quality of Italian wine has been enormous, so it is only fitting that it should also be leading the march into the future by focusing on wines of purity and finesse with a strong sense of place.

‘It is almost a duty to produce our best Chianti Classico and to release these Gran Selezione [wines] as an expression of the individual identity of the terroir of our vineyards,’ concluded Cotarella. Marchese Piero quickly added: ‘It’s a duty but also a privilege to own such special vineyards.’


Antinori’s new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione tasted:


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Antinori, San Sano, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione Gaiole, Tuscany, Italy, 2021

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Purchased in 2014, San Sano reaches 450m on a luminous plateau in Gaiole. It is an exceptionally rocky site with substantial underpinnings of alberese, a limestone-rich marl. Refined in 12-hectolitre French oak cask, it is the most finessed of Antinori’s Gran Selezione quartet. Scents of mace and juniper introduce a palate that's linear in progression and built around a blood orange and pomegranate core that reaches stony depths. Animating acidity and beautifully knit tannins are in perfect synergy, culminating in a very zesty, citrussy finish. This has a bright future.

2021

TuscanyItaly

AntinoriChianti Classico

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Antinori, Villa del Cigliano, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione San Casciano, Tuscany, Italy, 2021

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The Cigliano vineyard faces east-west at an elevation of 280m and has a continental climate cooled by coastal breezes and a good diurnal temperature difference. Once a riverbed, the soil is mainly alluvial clay with some limestone and pockets of gravel, galestro and alberese. It produces a richer, rounder, fuller style wine with ripe black fruit. The vineyard is typically harvested 20 days earlier than San Sano and the wine is aged in barrique for 14 months. Opaque ruby in colour, it is warm, friendly and immediate on the nose with ripe blackberry and a touch of prune, fig and lightly fragrant flowers. On the palate it is round, medium-full and gentle with quite a luxurious texture and lovely fine, salty tannins. This is a wine with intensity and character but also great drinkability.

2021

TuscanyItaly

AntinoriChianti Classico

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Antinori, Buiano, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione Castellina, Tuscany, Italy, 2021

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From the lower, western slopes of Castellina, Buiano blends two nearby but distinct parcels – one on clay, the other on predominantly sandy soil. The first brings freshness and the second more structure and power, according to Antinori’s technical director Dora Pacciani. Ageing is in 500-litre new French oak barrels. It is bigger boned but brilliantly balanced and packs in plenty of flavour. Flint, beeswax and cinnamon weave through wild red berries. As it opens, perfumed violets poke through. Ample, almost opulent fruit is tightly girdled by velvety tannins. Sweet wood nuances are explicit but well embedded. Tons of energy and persistence here.

2021

TuscanyItaly

AntinoriChianti Classico

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Antinori, Badia a Passignano, Chianti Classico, Gran Selezione San Donato in Poggio, Tuscany, Italy, 2021

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The Badia a Passignano vineyards, close to the Tenuta Tignanello estate, lie at an altitude of between 250 and 300 metres above sea level and are surrounded by 600-metre high hills to the east and southwest, which form a protective amphitheatre. This area is described by Antinori as a ‘geographical liaison between the UGA of San Casciano and the UGA of Panzano’. It has a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and summers that remain fresh and well ventilated. This in turn encourages a longer, slower ripening season. The 2021 has some notes of green herb as well as bitter cherry, orange zest and sweet vanilla. There is a touch of forest greenness and a balsamic note, as well as spicy black pepper. On the palate the tannins are firm, upright and assertive but always refined. There is a beautiful soft, enveloping texture and weight, and the acidity gives mouthwatering freshness on the finish. It is a little oak-dominant at present, but is still young and needs time. A beautifully made wine that expresses a strong identity.

2021

TuscanyItaly

AntinoriChianti Classico

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Susan Hulme MW
Decanter Premium, Decanter Magazine and DWWA Judge

Susan Hulme MW runs Vintuition, her own wine education and consultancy company, based in Windsor, which provides wine-related training and courses for both the trade and members of the public. A major part of her work is running in-house training and WSET exams for sales executives at some of the leading on-trade and retail wine companies.  Aside from judging Decanter World Wine Awards, she also is a regular critic on Decanter’s panel tastings and judges for the International Wine Competition. She is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers, a former chairman of the Association of Wine Educators (AWE) and the current editor of the AWE newsletter. Since 2007 she has been on the Institute of Masters of Wine events committee. She became a Master of Wine in 2005, winning the Madame Bollinger tasting medal for outstanding performance in the tasting exam.