First taste: Bollinger Grande Année 2007
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Champagne house Bollinger recently launched the latest vintage of their prestige cuvée, Grande Année, alongside some older vintages. Michael Edwards reports...
The Bollinger Grande Année 2007 launch happened one warm day in chilly May, a congenial moment reflecting the ripe character of this latest release. Grande Année is Bollinger’s prestige cuvée, made only in vintages worthy of the name.
It is sometimes seen as the cadet brother of R.D (‘recently disgorged’), which is a little misleading as it’s the same wine, the only difference being the time it spends on its lees; Grande Année between seven and ten years, R.D often over 20.
The 2007 launch showed three other vintages of Grande Année, between ten and 28 years old, including the lovely 1992, the forgotten beauty which was lost a little in the economic slump following the first Gulf War in 1991.
Gilles Descotes, Bollinger’s cellarmaster, also highlighted the most recent harvests, the first to show the advance of climate change – 2005, 2007 and 2011 – mercurial summers and all. The success of Grande Année 2007 owes everything to Bollinger’s wisdom in waiting for a drying wind and the return of sunshine following a wet August, picking in early September. A great result.
Michael’s Bollinger Grande Année tasting notes:
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Michael Edwards trained in Law, reading for the Bar at Gray’s Inn, London. In 1968, he joined Laytons, and while living in France in the 1970s represented fine estates in Burgundy and Alsace .
He has also been a chief inspector of the Egon Ronay restaurant Guide. A freelance writer for 30 years, he has specialised in Champagne, in 2010 winning the Roederer Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne.
He became the first non-Champenois to be admitted order of Confrère St Vincent de Vertus. He’s researching a new book on Champagne and other great sparkling wines.
Michael Edwards was first a DWWA judge in 2004 and was most recently a judge at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).