American Zinfandel on Zinfandel Day
Zinfandel has long been synonymous with California, despite its origins in Puglia and the Adriatic countries of Croatia and Montenegro. The third Wednesday in November marks Zinfandel Day, offering the perfect opportunity to look at the current state of American Zinfandel along with some fresh examples.
For a time, Zinfandel was thought of as indigenous to the United States. Still, that commonly held belief was proven premature as the connections to Italian Primitivo proved the two nearly an exact genetic match.
Though that association with California has not always been a positive one, Zinfandel has long been an important part of Californian fine wine, and the variety is seeing a resurgence.
Conventional wisdom holds that Zinfandel made its way to California with those seeking their fortunes as part of the Gold Rush in the 1850s. Perhaps the first Zinfandel of note was made by Joseph W. Osborne from a vineyard in Oak Knoll District, now one of the sub-appellations of Napa Valley. The praise his wine garnered resulted in the broad planting of the grape, which grew to the most planted in California in the early 1900s.
America’s great mistake of Prohibition would destroy many, though not all, of these old Zinfandel vineyards and set the grape and American wine back decades. The historical setback would derail the development of California’s fine wine culture.
Many vineyards that remained after Prohibition were located in California’s Central Valley, a region known for quantity production rather than the production of fine wine. Napa Valley, with wines showing promise in the mid-1800s, wouldn’t come to international prominence for more than another 100 years.
As California’s reputation for wine progressed, Zinfandel found itself squeezed out in many places by Cabernet Sauvignon. This trend, coupled with the soaring commercial success of the sickly sweet, blush wine known as ‘White Zin’, has saddled the once noble and benchmark variety in California with a poor reputation.
‘It’s no secret that California Zinfandel has been subject to misunderstanding,’ says Frank Family Vineyards winemaker Todd Graff. ‘In the 20th century, a majority of California Zinfandel planted was either overly jammy and high in alcohol or semi-sweet and pink. There are many of us trying to shift that narrative today.’
Yet it is California’s Zinfandel legacy which may save it and return it to its rightful place atop America’s pantheon of fine wines.
‘Old vineyards produce some of the world’s richest, most characterful and delicious wines’, says Don Hartford, co-owner of Hartford Family Winery. ‘In California, we have 100-year-old Zinfandel vineyards that display intense aromatic, flavour and textural complexities.’
‘California Zinfandel is remarkable for the age of its vineyards, the people who farm them and the vibrancy of the Zinfandel varietal. For these reasons, I think California Zinfandel will be important for years to come,’ Hartford concludes.
Tasting notes and scores for 10 American Zinfandels
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Mt Brave, Zinfandel, Napa Valley, Mt Veeder, California, USA, 2019
94
Opulence meets restraint in this Mt Brave bottling from the high elevation Mt Veeder AVA in Napa Valley. Aromas of spiced black plums, cinder, smoke and dried floral notes are underpinned by an esoteric mint note. The palate is lush, rich and brooding. Dark plum flesh, Christmas spice and blackberries meld together with rich raisin and chocolate notes. There is a savoury balance that brings acidity to lift the proceedings.
2019
Mt BraveNapa Valley
Frank Family Vineyards, Zinfandel, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2021
Arresting aromatics of clove, five spice and blackberries are followed on by wild fennel and violets. Undeniably ripe, this Zinfandel has loads of freshness, spiced...
2021
Frank Family VineyardsNapa Valley
Hartford Court, Old Vine Zinfandel, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2021
93
From vines with 100 years of average age, up to 120 in the oldest vines from 60m above the valley floor, comes a mountain Zinfandel grown in cooler climes – savoury with fresh fennel frond, mint and sage with ample blackberry aromas. There is an absolute freshness to this Zinfandel, it eschews stereotypes the grape has become saddled with. Fresh evergreen tips and ripe blackberry fruits meet spiced notes of fig, clove and fresh mint – a deliciously balanced Zinfandel from these masters of Pinot and Chardonnay in Sonoma.
2021
Hartford CourtSonoma County
Edmeades, Zinfandel, Mendocino County, California, USA, 2021
92
Coastal vineyards from Mendocino and native fermentation produce a concentrated and balanced expression of mountain Zinfandel. Aromas of Christmas spice, cinder and baked blackberry tart introduce this rich Zinfandel from small growers throughout Mendocino County. Lushly fruited, the palate shows concentrated flavours of plum blackberry compote and a density of dark cherry flesh. There is plenty of zest and spice to this wine with clove and cinnamon, but it finishes undeniably fresh.
2021
EdmeadesMendocino County
Eleven Eleven, Jewel Late Harvest Zinfandel, Napa Valley, Oakville, California, USA, 2017
92
These grapes were picked at 34 brix, and the wine was made in 75% new American oak. The result is ripe and opulent. Made in a digestif style, this sweet late-harvest Zinfandel is rich, ripe and alluring – aromas of rum raisin cake, Christmas spice, evergreen tips and sugar plums. The palate is rich and robust yet shows a real balance. Flavours of ripe damson, candied ginger, chocolate cake and blackberry tart are marked by a sweetened spice and a finish that lingers.
2017
Eleven ElevenNapa Valley
Papapietro Perry, Zinfandel, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley, California, USA, 2020
Ripe and concentrated Zinfandel from two different Dry Creek vineyard sites; Pauline's Vineyard and Timber Crest Farms. Fifteen months in new François Frères barrels offer...
2020
Papapietro PerrySonoma County
Barra of Mendocino, Reserve Zinfandel, Mendocino County, California, USA, 2020
91
Fresh and vibrant with concentrated black and blue fruits, this organically grown Zinfandel from hillside vineyard Bella Collina in Mendocino offers excellent value. Exuberant blueberry and blackberry fruit aromas are backed with mint and smoky notes, all in the presence of tangy berry character. The palate shows sweet fruit flavours of spiced plum, cinnamon and clove. There is red currant jam and a savoury fresh mint to finish.
2020
Barra of MendocinoMendocino County
Kendall-Jackson, Vintner's Reserve Zinfandel, North Coast, California, USA, 2021
91
Undeniably drinkable and fresh, the North Coast Zinfandel from Kendall-Jackson may serve as a bellwether of the style of wine the grape can produce with a depth of dark fruits that is lifted by undeniable freshness. Aromas of mountain scrub, wild violet, pine bough and stone give way to ripe cherry notes. The palate is concentrated by retaining a zesty freshness – a dark fruit core wrapped in dusty, gravelly minerality.
2021
Kendall-JacksonNorth Coast
Lange Twins, Redtail Vineyard Zinfandel, Lodi, Jahant, California, USA, 2020
89
Made in a very opulent and ripe style from the Redtail Vineyard in Lodi, California's Zinfandel capital. Crafted from the Primitivo three clone and 14 months in neutral American oak, this wine shows sweet tobacco aromatics and strawberry fruit leather along with notes of brown sugar and cinnamon. The palate shows oxidative notes reminiscent of Port, with flavours of sarsaparilla, sweet cherry and molten chocolate cake.
2020
Lange TwinsLodi
The Vice, Zinfandel, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2021
89
Clove and rum raisin aromatics along with spiced plum introduce this single-vineyard, old vine Zinfandel from Los Carneros in Napa Valley. The palate shows raisins and sweet Christmas spice, rumcake and dates. There is a touch of heat on the finish.
2021
The ViceNapa Valley
