High Street Italy: great choices under £20
Now is the perfect time to explore the depth and breadth of delicious and characterful wines emerging from regions across Italy. To help inspire you, our in-house tasting team has sought out eight whites and 12 reds, all great value, and all available on the UK high street.
While independent wine merchants remain the go-to choice for a small portion of the wine-drinking public, in the UK it’s the national high-street chains and supermarkets which continue to attract the lion’s share of wine sales. Accessibility, price and the ability to fling a few bottles into the trolley along with the weekly shop all play into the hands of the big operators. And there’s seemingly no better time than now to hit the high street and pick up some bottles of Italian wine – despite Brexit-related supply chain concerns, the global pandemic has helped to kickstart a shift in consumer behaviour to which the high street has been quick to react.
Trading up
A trend towards premiumisation allied with an increased appetite for experimentation was borne of the pandemic’s ‘stay-at-home’ mantra, during which time consumers increased their per-bottle spend on wine to drink at home. ‘Spend levels appear to have risen in the second half of 2020 as the initial shock of the pandemic wore off,’ notes a December 2020 report from analyst Wine Intelligence. And a market report from the UK’s Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) covering the 12 months to 27 March 2021 supports this, showing that wine sales across all price brackets from £3-£4 up to £10-plus were in growth year-on-year, with healthy double-figure increases in all categories from £6 up.
In this context, Italy was the world’s leading exporter of wine in 2020, according to market data providers Statista, exporting 20.8 million hectolitres worldwide. With its myriad varieties and styles, Italian wines have been perfectly positioned to benefit from this new consumer trend.
‘Italian wine is very popular with Tesco customers, with the favourite being Pinot Grigio [starting at £4.50],’ said Charlotte Lemoine, wine product development manager for France, Italy, Germany and sparkling at Tesco, the UK’s biggest supermarket chain with 4,008 stores nationwide last year (Statista). ‘There seems to be a trend of customers favouring the richer, more flavourful styles of premium Pinot Grigio. This premium trend is also true for reds and other white varieties, as customers are clearly enjoying exploring the numerous Italian grapes and styles, instead of basing decisions on low price points,’ she added.
Majestic Wine, Decanter Retailer Awards 2021 National Wine Shop category winner, opened its 201st store last July. ‘We see customers who are happy to trade into more premium wines from well-known areas such as Gavi and Soave, but are also venturing into other premium wine areas such as Lugana,’ says Majestic buyer Elizabeth Kelly MW. ‘The £10-£15 price point is particularly strong.’
Going greene
There have been marked improvements in quality across the board in Italian wines over the last couple of decades. With growers and winemakers moving to organic or sustainable practices and adopting modern techniques in the cellar, the biggest beneficiaries have arguably been wines at the lower end of the price spectrum. Majestic currently offers more than 70 organic wines, including 16 from Italy. ‘We have tried to offer a breadth of organic options in different styles,’ explains Kelly.
Widening range
Of the 20 wines selected by Decanter’s editorial team for this feature, it’s good to see some wines from less well- represented regions – including Campania, Friuli Venezia Giulia and Marche. Eleven of the 20 wines scored 90pts or higher, while nine wines didn’t even break the £10 barrier – Aldi’s Specially Selected Lugana (£6.99) and Morrisons’ The Best Negroamaro (£7.25) stand out as particularly good value given the quality on offer. The wines on the following pages are, of course, only
a tiny cross-section of what is available in 2022, but it’s heartening to see that the UK high street is enabling consumers to experience more of Italy’s diverse and wonderful wines.
High Street Italy: great choices under £20
Wines are grouped by style and shown in score order, in descending order
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Aldi, Specially Selected, Lugana, Lombardy, Italy, 2020
90
A new wine to Aldi from Castellore (as is the equally good Specially Selected Greco di Tufo, £7.99), this fruit-forward white shows lots of juicy stone fruit, pear and floral notes on both nose and palate, with green apple acidity to balance the ripeness. A crowd pleaser that works just as well on its own as with a seafood platter.
2020
AldiLugana
La Guardiense, Janare, Falanghina del Sannio, Campania, Italy, 2020
90
La Guardiense is an important cooperative in the Campania region and this tropical-led Falanghina comes from vineyards in the hilly region north of Naples. Enticing notes of mango, melon, lychee and peach are underpinned by fresh acidity and a mineral edge. It’s very ripe and floral, finishing with roses and pink grapefruit.
2020
La GuardienseFalanghina del Sannio
Planeta, L'Amistanza Fiano Grecanico, Sicilia, Sicily, Italy, 2020
90
White blossom, peach and apricot aromas unfold onto a tart, yellow apple palate. This is fresh and intensely flavoured, with almond, yellow plum and lemon curd emerging softly. Balancing zippy tartness with soft ripeness and nutty tones, this honey-tinged wine is a must-try as an aperitif or with oily, herb-infused grilled vegetables.
2020
PlanetaSicilia
Monte del Frà, Custoza, Veneto, Italy, 2019
89
The little-known Custoza DOC borders the edge of Lake Garda in northern Italy and produces fresh, elegant whites. This has light waxy lemon, peach and almond aromas with a touch of kerosene intrigue. The palate is more tropical, with pineapple, kiwi and mango upheld by zippy acidity and a bitter, textured finish.
2019
Monte del FràCustoza
Sainsbury's, Taste the Difference Discovery Collection, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
89
Part of Sainsbury's new limited-edition Taste the Difference Discovery Collection. A proportion of the Verdicchio grapes are late harvest, lending a honeyed tones to the fresh, citrus and herbal nose (the blend also contains 10% Malvasia). The creamy, textured palate – 5% of the wine is aged in barriques – features notes of pear, white peach and blossom balanced by good cleansing acidity.
2020
Sainsbury'sVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Tesco, Finest Passerina, Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy, 2020
89
Italy is home to hundreds of native grape varieties, many of which aren't seen beyond Italy's shores, so it's refreshing to find this ancient variety, Passerina, in Tesco at such a decent price. From limestone vineyards between the Apennine foothills and the Adriatic coast, this offers grapey aromas twinned with peaches and orange rind. In the mouth it's full of flavour and takes on a bitter almond, walnut, green olive and honey character.
2020
TescoTerre di Chieti
Normanno, Terra di Madre, Sicily, Italy, 2020
88
Fragrant Asian pear, orange candy and a hint of sweet herbs on the nose. The palate is filled with juicy yellow fruits, lemon zest and sweet vanilla on the finish - although the 100% Catarratto hasn't seen any oak. A lovely food wine from Sicily at just £6.5 per bottle.
2020
Normanno
Visionario, Bianco Trevenezie, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2020
88
A fruity blend of Friulano, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia Istriana and Chardonnay from northern Italy. Floral, citrus aromas are accompanied by some peachy ripeness and honeyed sweetness. It's rich in the mouth, with some zesty orange and floral notes and more of that honey character. Enticing, although it finishes a bit shorter than you might expect.
2020
VisionarioBianco Trevenezie
Antinori, Villa Antinori Rosso, Toscana, Tuscany, Italy, 2018
92
The Villa Antinori label was created by Piero Antinori’s father, Niccolò, back in 1928. Roast meat and coconut provide complexity to a rich nose of dark fruits. It has great concentration of fresh but ripe cherry and mulberry, spiced by liquorice and dark coffee. Ageing in French, Hungarian and American oak provides a pleasantly chewy texture, poised with elegant acids. Warm coconut and dark spices on the long finish. A treat at an affordable price.
2018
AntinoriToscana
Morrisons, The Best, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2017
92
Made by the Cantina di Soave cooperative for Morrisons, this is a powerful Amarone with a ripe red berry perfume along with a touch of wild game showing some development. The grapes are dried for three months before the resulting wine is aged in large oak barrels for 24 months. Concentrated red and dark berries are joined on the palate by sweet spices and velvety tannins. Dried herbs and prunes linger on a long finish. It's sweet but balanced, with 10g/L of residual sugar and 5.6g/L of acidity.
2017
MorrisonsAmarone della Valpolicella
Aldi, Winemaster's Lot, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2018
91
Winemaster's Lot is Aldi's new premium brand, representing just 10 top wines in the supermarket's range. From Castellore, this Barbaresco is one of the best: it's very pale in colour with elegant notes of fresh cherry, autumn leaves and earthy minerals supported by firm tannins and bright acidity. The Winemaster's Lot Amarone 2018 (£19.99) and Luigi Giovanni Barolo 2017 (£14.99) are also top buys.
2018
AldiBarbaresco
Terre del Barolo, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
91
The Terre del Barolo cooperative in Castiglione Falletto was established in 1958 and today has more than 300 members. This release from the 2016 vintage – rated five stars and 'exceptional' by Decanter's Stephen Brook – shows lovely evolution, with red berry and cherry fruit, some spicy oak notes from 18 months ageing in 50 and 100hL French and Slavonian oak barrels, and a good balance of acidity and tannic structure. Delicious.
2016
Terre del BaroloBarolo
Caruso & Minini, Corte Ferro Frappato Nerello Mascalese, Sicily, Italy, 2019
90
A blend of Nerello Mascalese for structure and Frappato for juicy cherry fruit, this Sicilian red is fantastic value. A lighter style which lends itself to light chilling, it's bright with red strawberry and raspberry fruit, almost compote like, and some cinnamon spice. Delicious, uncomplicated everyday drinking.
2019
Caruso & Minini
Castello Vicchiomaggio, Villa Nardelli Cuvée Carolina, Tuscany, Italy, 2019
90
This Sangiovese-driven red blend has a perfumed nose of red berries and sour cherry. Without any oak influence, the palate is ripe but fresh. Red cherry and blueberry fruits are soaked in a lovely tone of dried herbs and milk chocolate, supported by textured ripe tannins. Prune flavours follow to the finish.
2019
Castello Vicchiomaggio
Morrisons, The Best Negroamaro, Puglia, Italy, 2020
90
The Negroamaro hasn't seen any oak. Pure and concentrated, with a rich bouquet of fresh blackberry, dark cherry and prunes on the nose. Residual sugar sits at 11g/l, providing a lovely roundness and weight on the juicy dark fruit-driven palate, with sufficient acidity (6.2g/l) to refresh. Perfumed prune and dried berries on the finish.
2020
Morrisons
Cavalchina, La Prendida Estate, Bardolino, Veneto, Italy, 2020
89
Lifted and welcoming aromas of grenadine syrup continue on the medium-bodied palate, joined by tarter flavours of pomegranate and red cherry. An easy and uncomplicated fruit-forward red with a creamy strawberry yoghurt mouthfeel, balancing acidity and a little pepper on the finish. One for pizza and movie night.
2020
CavalchinaBardolino
Pazzia, Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, Italy, 2019
89
Inky-dark in the glass, this Primitivo is all about ripe, fleshy, sweet dark fruit: black cherry and plum with some violet perfume. Appealing and easy drinking with medium tannins and acidity, it's for relatively short-term drinking and would be perfect with a bowl of bolognese in front of the TV.
2019
PazziaPrimitivo di Manduria
Sainsbury's, Taste the Difference, Valpolicella, Ripasso, Veneto, Italy, 2017
89
Great value for money, this is a harmonious blend of Corvina (55%), Rondinella (25%), Corvinone (15%) and Croatina (5%). The grapes are macerated with the skins of dried grapes used to produce Amarone, which adds depth and velvety texture to the palate. There's a coffee-mocha note to the bright berry aromas on the nose, followed by a lightly spiced palate of juicy red and black fruits, with good persistence on the finish.
2017
Sainsbury'sValpolicella
Sainsbury's, Taste the Difference Discovery Collection, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy, 2016
89
Part of Sainsbury's new limited-edition Taste the Difference Discovery Collection, this Vino Nobile also reflects the retailer's effort to broaden its Italy offer. It's mostly Sangiovese with 10% other grapes, giving appealing earthy, brambly aromas. Medium-bodied, it has soft tannins and a palate of spicy, brambly black fruit seasoned with dried herbs. Vegan.
2016
Sainsbury'sVino Nobile di Montepulciano
