The Wine Society’s evolving palate: Discover its must-try wines for this season
Classics and off-the-beaten-track bottles mingle playfully across an evolving range that consistently delivers quality, character and value.
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A Wine Society tasting is never anything less than a pleasure.
No other retailer of this scale (the mutually owned business now has 183,000 members) has a range offering comparable diversity, quality or value for money.
And very few buying teams are able to do the same skilled job with sub-£10 everyday wines as they do with top-shelf ‘fine wine’; The Wine Society’s consistently delivers at all levels.
Scroll down to see Decanter’s picks from The Wine Society’s winter range
Evolving tastes
At a tasting of 120 wines, we were spoilt for choice – narrowing it down to the selection below was no easy feat. To make things a little easier, we’ve largely confined our attention to wines that are entirely new to the portfolio.
The 25 bottles below show how The Wine Society team’s collective tastes are subtly evolving.
This evolution reflects both the need to appeal to a younger generation of members and the changing of the guard that has taken place over the past couple of years across the buying team’s ranks.
While there are still plenty of very well-chosen classics on The Wine Society’s books, the business is more open than ever to the changes in winemaking and wine aesthetics that have been brought about by the natural wine scene.
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A flurry of (immaculate) additions from natural and natural-adjacent wine producers – such as Alsace’s Domaine du Rêveur and Santa Barbara County’s Camins 2 Dreams – are great examples of the success of this balancing act.
Championing the unexpected
The Wine Society has always been a pioneering champion of lesser-known, off-the-beaten-track regions. That continues apace, with wines from Armenia, Poland and Turkey all pleasing the palate – even if not, in some cases, the wallet.
But the real stars of the new additions were from more familiar countries, if not always in the shape of familiar winemakers, regions or styles. Standouts included a bunch of South Africans (with the country’s combination of excellent value and experimentation exemplified by Swartland’s AA Badenhorst and Sakkie Mouton on the west coast), some incredible old-vine Australians, and an unusual white from one of California’s finest estates.
The Wine Society: top buys this winter
All bottle prices are correct at time of publication and do not reflect special or multi-buy offers.
Wines are grouped by style and ordered by score, in descending order.
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Domaine Boxler, Crémant d’Alsace, Alsace, France, 2020

The pristine house style of Domaine Boxler’s often-exquisite still wines translates well into the production of fizz, with this blend of 50% Pinot Blanc, 30%...
2020
AlsaceFrance
Domaine BoxlerCrémant d’Alsace
Simonsig, The Society's Exhibition Cap Classique, Méthode Cap Classique, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2023

92
Made by a (the) pioneer of South African traditional-method sparkling wine, Simonsig, this is outstanding value and easily the equal, or more, of many a pricier Champagne or Crémant. Chardonnay leads the way in a blend of the trad Champagne trio, for a wine of elegance, fruit purity and fine, lacy mousse.
2023
StellenboschSouth Africa
SimonsigMéthode Cap Classique
Sakkie Mouton, Revenge of the Crayfish, Lutzville Valley, Koekenaap, South Africa, 2023

Another completely thrilling wine from Cape West Coast original Sakkie Mouton, this coastal Chenin has a decidedly sea-breezy feel. It’s saline and sappy with real...
2023
KoekenaapSouth Africa
Sakkie MoutonLutzville Valley
Ridge Vineyards, Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles, Adelaida District, California, USA, 2024

A lesser-spotted wine from one of California’s most celebrated estates, this Wine Society exclusive is an effortlessly charming, unforced but succulent and complex dry white...
2024
CaliforniaUSA
Ridge VineyardsPaso Robles
Château Cloisot, C de Sec du Château Cloisot, Barsac, Bordeaux, France, 2023

From a leading Burgundian winemaker (Jean-Marie Guffens) specialising in dry Sémillon in a corner of Bordeaux (Barsac) better known for sweet wines, this is outstanding...
2023
BordeauxFrance
Château CloisotBarsac
Kamil Barczentewicz, Chardonnay Béton, Wine of Poland, South East Poland, Poland, 2023

If you're new to Polish wine, 1) join the club; 2) this concrete egg-fermented Chardonnay may surprise you. The pick of a trio of wines...
2023
South East PolandPoland
Kamil BarczentewiczWine of Poland
Vignoble du Rêveur, Au Fil de L'ILL, Alsace, France, 2023

93
One of a trio of exciting, natural-leaning new Alsace wines in The Wine Society stable from Mathieu Deiss and Emmanuelle Milan’s Vignoble du Rêveur, this blend of Pinots Blanc and Gris with Riesling and Muscat is super-pure and profoundly drinkable with a fine line of salty acidity running through the juicy Mirabelle plum and peach. Great value. A real find.
2023
AlsaceFrance
Vignoble du Rêveur
Christina & Rainer Wess, Tochter & Vater Grüner Veltliner, Niederösterreich, Austria, 2024

From 'Tochter & Vater' (daughter and father) duo Christina and Rainer Wess, this delightful dry Grüner is just full of the joys of spring, a...
2024
NiederösterreichAustria
Christina & Rainer Wess
Undurraga, TH San Antonio Riesling, San Antonio, Chile, 2021

From fruit grown in the cool-climate hot spot of Lo Abarco a mere 4km from the Pacific in San Antonio, this is a scintillating take...
2021
San AntonioChile
Undurraga
Virgen del Galir, The Society's Exhibition Valdeorras Godello, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, 2024

Sourced from the Galician corner of the portfolio of Rioja bigwigs CVNE, Virgen del Galir, this excellent value Godello, with its mixture of fullness and...
2024
GaliciaSpain
Virgen del GalirValdeorras
Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois, The Society's Exhibition Côtes du Jura, Côtes du Jura, Jura, France, 2020

Aged (like fino and amontillado sherry) under a veil of flor, this is a relatively affordable beginner’s guide to the uniquely yeasty-savoury unfortified sous-voile wines...
2020
JuraFrance
Fruitière Vinicole d’ArboisCôtes du Jura
Cirillo Estate, 1850 Vine Barossa Valley Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia, 2018

95
A tribute to Barossa’s remarkable old-vine heritage, this remarkable Grenache comes from a vineyard planted in 1850. It’s a model of purring, beautifully balanced concentration, with fragrant bramble-bush fruit, red liquorice and rosemary, a sprinkle of fine tannin and a long cherry-and-gently peppered finish. Outstanding.
2018
South AustraliaAustralia
Cirillo EstateBarossa Valley
Sakkie Mouton, Dawn of the Salty Tongues Syrah, Olifants River, Olifants River, South Africa, 2023

We're not 100% sure the cartoonish labels match the sheer quality and evocative beauty of the wine here, but maybe we're getting old, and really,...
2023
Olifants RiverSouth Africa
Sakkie MoutonOlifants River
Elisa Guerin, La Vigne de Mon Père, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent, Burgundy, France, 2023

A new vintage rather than a 'new' wine per se, but this exquisite Moulin-à-Vent was by some distance the most impressive of the three Beaujolais...
2023
BurgundyFrance
Elisa GuerinBeaujolais
Vignoble du Rêveur, Rien Ne Bouge, Alsace, France, 2023

The Wine Society shows its funky side here with a highly original, hard-to-categorise, but endlessly entertaining wine that looks like a light red and is...
2023
AlsaceFrance
Vignoble du Rêveur
Camins 2 Dreams, Yilá Red, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2023

Carignan leads the way in this multi-varietal Santa Barbara County blend from an exciting, low-intervention small producer. Very much in a light and juicy mode,...
2023
CaliforniaUSA
Camins 2 DreamsSanta Barbara County
Clos la Coutale, Grand Coutale, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2020

Part of The Wine Society’s Christmas Fine Wine Collection, this is a very pure, seamless, harmonious style of Malbec, with no rough edges, aged in...
2020
Southwest FranceFrance
Clos la CoutaleCahors
Yaban Kolektif, Erciş Karası 1770, Eastern Anatolia, Turkey, 2023

93
It's a wee bit expensive perhaps, but this Turkish red, made from old (57 years) vines of the rare Erciş Karası variety grown at a lofty 1770m above sea level will reward the curious buyer with its deeply expressive lightness of touch, its wild berries and pomegranate and its skipping, dancing, immensely refreshing energy.
2023
Eastern AnatoliaTurkey
Yaban Kolektif
Domaine de la Butte, Pied de la Butte, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2024

The wines of the late Jacky Blot are now made by his no-less talented son, Jean-Phillippe, and they remain among the best in the Loire....
2024
LoireFrance
Domaine de la ButteBourgueil
Domaine de Montvac, Arabesque, Vacqueyras, Rhône, France, 2019

Made by a retired ballerina (Cécile Dusserre) with her daughter Amélie, this unoaked Grenache-led blend does have a certain balletic elegance in the context of...
2019
RhôneFrance
Domaine de MontvacVacqueyras
Piedra Fluida, Majec, Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain, 2023

Another funky choice that explores the increasingly fluid boundaries between wine colours, this near-50-50 co-fermented blend of Listán Negro and Blanco from old vines on...
2023
Canary IslandsSpain
Piedra FluidaTenerife
Château Citran, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2016

A super-reliable, good quality name in the Haut-Médoc category. Ground coffee flavours run right through the extremely elegant black fruits, liquorice and charcoal, with a...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château CitranHaut-Médoc
Minimalist, Experimental Red Blend, Cape South Coast, South Africa, 2023

A collaboration between The Wine Society and rising-star winemaker Sam Lambson, this is largely Sam’s own 2023 Syrah fleshed out with Viognier from Miles Mossop...
2023
Cape South CoastSouth Africa
Minimalist
AA Badenhorst, Curator Red, Coastal Region, South Africa, 2024

Superstar Swartland winemaker Adi Badenhorst makes some of South Africa’s finest new-wave wines. But he also has a neat line in accessible, and accessibly priced...
2024
Coastal RegionSouth Africa
AA Badenhorst
Château Coutet, Barsac, Bordeaux, France, 2016

93
A real treat of a Barsac from Coutet, this offers a beguiling and luxurious mix of crystallised lime and lemon and peaches in syrup with a touch of ginger marmalade spiciness. Blue cheese, foie gras, tarte tatin … take your pick for a partner.
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château CoutetBarsac
David Williams is a widely published wine writer, author and judge, who lives in Spain. He is also a founding member of The Wine Gang
