Verdicchio: panel tasting results
Summer’s the ideal time to discover these delicious dry whites from Italy’s central Adriatic coast region. Their freshness and individuality provide excellent value, and often with an option to keep and improve.
Andy Howard MW, Sara Bachiorri and Michael Garner tasted 75 wines, with 1 Exceptional and 4 Outstanding.
Verdicchio panel tasting scores
75 wines tasted
Exceptional 1
Outstanding 4
Highly recommended 59
Recommended 11
Commended 0
Fair 0
Poor 0
Faulty 0
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release vintages of still dry white wines from DOCs Verdicchio di Matelica or Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, and DOCGs Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva or Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva
In a white wine world dominated by Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, extolling the virtues of Verdicchio – the Italian white grape made infamous by curvy, amphora-shaped bottles in the 1970s – might seem like hard work. Yet ask Italian wine experts for their opinion of this variety and you may be surprised.
In his book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Ian d’Agata states: ‘Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest variety.’ The results of this panel tasting seemed to support the view that Verdicchio is a grape capable of producing high-quality, ageworthy wines.
Scroll down for the top-scoring Verdicchio wines
The results were certainly impressive, averaging 91 points across the range of 75 wines. This came as no surprise to Italian wine expert and panel judge Michael Garner, who commented that ‘this Verdicchio tasting more than lived up to my expectations – and they were already high’.
For this tasting, Verdicchio wines from a range of vintages were tasted, predominantly sourced from the larger Castelli di Jesi denomination, along with a number from the highly rated Verdicchio di Matelica area. Castelli di Jesi lies closer to the Adriatic sea with an area under vine of some 1,900ha. The much smaller di Matelica zone – found at the foot of the Apennines, between 300m-400m above sea level – experiences a continental, rather than maritime, climate.
In style, both share classic Verdicchio characters of a straw-coloured hue in the glass, often with a flash of green; apple and stone fruit flavours combined with almond notes, a touch of bitterness and powerful acidity which promotes long ageing. Castelli di Jesi wines tend to be somewhat softer and rounder, whereas those from di Matelica are often more structured and in need of a year or two’s extra ageing before they show their full potential.
Although Verdicchio also produces spumante and passito (sweet) styles, it is renowned for dry white wines, usually with minimal (or no) wood influence. Although maturation in wood may be found in the Riserva DOCG wines, it is perhaps the unwooded style of Verdicchio which shows the variety’s qualities off to its best – reflected in the use of steel and/or concrete in the production of the five top-scoring wines in this tasting. Garner noted: ‘I preferred the less complicated style, with ageing in stainless steel or concrete,’ concluding that, ‘this approach offers purity of fruit, aroma and flavour which highlights the excellent fruit/acid balance, giving Verdicchio structure and longevity.’
See all 75 wines from the Verdicchio panel tasting
Sara Bachiorri agreed, saying: ‘The overall quality was good and I find it exciting that there is so much going on with these appellations.’ She noted that ‘another thing to highlight is how well these wines can age’.
Considering the use of wood, Bachiorri observed: ‘Where oak was used, it was well integrated and in all the wines, whatever the vinification method, the layering of flavours took the wines to another level of complexity.’
Overall Verdicchio di Matelica scored slightly higher than Castelli di Jesi, leading Garner to exclaim: ‘Matelica – wow! These showcase the richness and structure of Verdicchio, but with the extra lift and vitality that vines grown at higher altitudes bring.’
Whichever DOC/DOCG you might choose, as a consumer you can expect high quality, characterful and long-lasting Verdicchio wines at attractive prices.
Verdicchio: the facts
- Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Since 1968 Minimum alcohol 11.5% Planted area* 1,806ha + 94ha Riserva
- Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico DOC comes from vineyards on the north bank of the Misa river
- Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva was elevated to DOCG in 2010 (minimum alcohol 12.5%; minimum ageing of 18 months) Verdicchio di Matelica DOC Since 1967 Minimum alcohol 11.5% Planted area* 260ha + 25ha Riserva
- Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva was elevated to DOCG in 2010 (Minimum alcohol 12.5%; minimum ageing of 24 months) Grape varieties Minimum 85% Verdicchio (synonyms/ biotypes Trebbiano di Soave, Trebbiano di Lugana); wines can also contain up to 15% Malvasia or Trebbiano Toscana DOC and Riserva wines may be designated ‘Classico’
*Source: ISMEA 2019
Top-scoring Verdicchio:
The judges
Andy Howard MW is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA 2022 Regional Chair for Central Italy (excluding Tuscany). A former retail wine buyer, he now runs his own consultancy Vinetrades.
Sara Bachiorri works in buying for merchant WoodWinters. First a DWWA judge in 2013, in the 2022 competition she judged in the Piedmont and Veneto categories. Born in Perugia, Umbria, she was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew, then at Chez Bruce in southwest London.
Michael Garner is co-owner of Italian specialist Tria Wines, author of Amarone and The Fine Wines of Verona (£35 Infinite Ideas), and DWWA Regional Chair for Northern Italy (excluding Piedmont & Verona).
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Honeyed on the nose, with smoky, salty aromas. Plenty of concentration and weight on the palate with minerality and freshness.
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Agriturismo ColognoleVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Piersanti, Terre di Sampaolo, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Candied orange and honey aromas. Full rich and ripe on the palate with notes of honeyed apricot and peach.
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PiersantiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Libenzi, Poggio Casalta, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Le Marche, Italy, 2017
Notes of sweet waxy and floor-polish. Good juicy fruit flavors with oak coming through on finish and a nice wood influence.
2017
LibenziVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Casalfarneto, Crisio Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2018
Ripe stone fruit notes with faint floral and herbal notes. Lemon zest and some bitter notes to finish.
2018
CasalfarnetoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Cantine Belisario, Cerro, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Peach, citrus, candied and ginger with notes of honey and luscious, ripe tropical fruits. Long balanced and toffeed finish.
2020
Cantine BelisarioVerdicchio di Matelica
Piersanti, Raphael, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Smoky with classic bruised apple skin contact notes with an intriguing hint of bitterness to finish. Pear and almond on palate with a long finish.
2020
PiersantiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Pievalta, San Paolo Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
Laid back nose of ripe summer fruits with gentle herbal and floral notes. Nutty and complex characters to finish with a slaty aftertaste.
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PievaltaVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Mirizzi, Ergo Sum Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2016
Citrus and peach notes with intriguing floral and spice hints on the palate. Ripe crystalized fruits with floral notes still present. Bright, lively and zesty...
2016
MirizziVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Cantine Provima, Provima, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Peach, lemon sherbet, herbs and beeswax with a hint of lime zest. Ripe fruit flavours with good, crisp and green apple acidity. Floral and mineral...
2020
Cantine ProvimaVerdicchio di Matelica
Mirizzi, Ergo, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2018
Bright, stone-fruit characters balanced with vibrant acidity. Crunchy fruit with some green apple notes, appealing bitter note on the finish.
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MirizziVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Santa Barbara, Stefano Antonucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
A poetic laid back lightly smoky with ripe yellow fruits and spring flowers. Rich, ripe, rounded, fresh and savoury with a long finish.
2019
Santa BarbaraVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Tenuta dell'Ugolino, Vigneto del Balluccio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Very crisp, elegant, plenty of stone fruits on both nose and palate with ripe, nutty and herbal-toned aromas. Good length.
2020
Tenuta dell'UgolinoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Umani Ronchi, Plenio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
Well-integrated oak, nutty and lightly malic with herbal-toned green fruit aromas. Round and balanced with lively fresh green fruit flavours. Good lingering finish of some...
2019
Umani RonchiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Andrea Felici, Verdicchio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Elegant and focused palate with plenty of bright citrus and mineral notes with lemon peel, lemon curd and apple. Refreshing bitter zest to finish.
2020
Andrea FeliciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Borgo Paglianetto, Petrara, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Quince jelly, peach apricot with some yeast and sultana notes with an intense and great length on the palate. Dried fruits and creme caramel flavours...
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Tenuta di Tavignano, Misco Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Le Marche, Italy, 2018
Ripe and seductive with some phenols and a hint of honey on the nose and on the palate. Rich and round with good acidity and...
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Tenuta di TavignanoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
La Marca di San Michele, Capovolto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Le Marche, Italy, 2017
Fresh and broad nose with strong herbal inflections to green fruit aromas. Attractive ripe, sunny stone-fruit on the palate with vibrant acidity and a mineral...
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La Marca di San MicheleVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Santa Barbara, Moss Blanc, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
Lots of freshness, sweet ripe fruit and a touch of honey with vibrant acidity, ripe stone-fruit flavours and a mineral undertow.
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Santa BarbaraVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
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Baked apple and dried nuts notes with ripe angelica and saffron to golden fruit aromas. Creamy texture with balanced and long with a mineral-toned finish.
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MonacescaVerdicchio di Matelica
Tenute San Sisto, Massaccio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Sweet, ripe fruit characters and oak vanilla and toast aromas. Nutty and warming finish with a mineral aftertaste.
2020
Tenute San SistoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Piersanti, Bacaréto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Very refined and crisp on the palate with subtle floral hints, touch of pear and a bright acidity. Mineral finish with a bitter touch.
2020
PiersantiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Borgo Paglianetto, Terravignata, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Floral with a good texture showing good peach, ripe apple and waxy flavours. Vibrant acidity with Intriguing nutty hints, allied with some floral characters. Impressive...
2020
Borgo PaglianettoVerdicchio di Matelica
Cológnola Tenuta Musone, Labieno Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Le Marche, Italy, 2017
Yellow apple, white peach and citrus on the palate, with an intriguing concentration of floral notes with. Bright and zesty acidity to finish
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Cológnola Tenuta MusoneVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Garofoli, La Selezione Gioacchino Garofoli Riserva, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2010
Lightly fragrant with notes of pineapple and peach. Floral with notes of herb on the nose and stone fruit and a bit of phenolic bitterness...
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GarofoliVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
La Staffa, Verdicchio, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Full rich and ripe nose of herbs, honey, orange marmalade and dried fruits. Hints of honey granola on the palate. Coffee and cream to finish.
2020
La StaffaVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Marotti Campi, Salmariano, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico, Le Marche, Italy, 2018
Pronounced oak with herbal-toned green fruit aromas. Rich and creamy texture with vanilla custard flavours and fine nutty characters on the aftertaste. Elegant with a...
2018
Marotti CampiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Monacesca, Verdicchio, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Green pear and apple fruit character on the nose and palate with herbs and thiols swarming all over it. Citrus finish with an understated elegance.
2020
MonacescaVerdicchio di Matelica
Colpaola, Verdicchio, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Ripe and full lightly floral nose with notes of mint and jasmine and a touch of orange blossom. Pristine fruit characters with zippy acidity with...
2020
ColpaolaVerdicchio di Matelica
Garofoli, Podium, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
Pear, lemon meringue with a pithy note. Long lasting flavours with rich nutty fruit flavours and extravagantly textured. Good intensity and length.
2019
GarofoliVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Casal Farneto, GranCasale, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
Nutty and toasty golden fruit aromas with flavours of caramelised walnuts, toast and lemon curd. Oak and dried fruits finish notes.
2019
Casal FarnetoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Pievalta, Tre Ripe, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2021
Lemon and flint on the nose with apricots and aromatic herbs notes. Very long flavours of mature peach and apricot. Candied lemon peel and an...
2021
PievaltaVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Sparapani Frati Bianchi, Il Priore, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Lemon zest, pineapple, mint and sage notes with hints of honey. Firm length and definition with a long finish.
2020
Sparapani Frati BianchiVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Cantine Belisario, Cambrugiano Riserva, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2018
Fine combination of concentrated stone fruit and lemon acidity with salty saline aromas and a hint of hay. Crisp and citrusy finish.
2018
Cantine BelisarioVerdicchio di Matelica
Tenuta Grimaldi, Verdicchio, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Wood rather dominant on both nose and palate with floral and honeyed notes and a touch of spice. Apricot and full golden fruit flavours with...
2020
Tenuta GrimaldiVerdicchio di Matelica
Tenuta Piano di Rustano, Brondoleto, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Warming, glossy and toasty notes on the nose and palate with a hint of roast root vegetables. Yeast, brioche, lemon and peach on the palate...
2020
Tenuta Piano di RustanoVerdicchio di Matelica
Villa Bucci, Bucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Yellow fruits and flowers notes. Citrus flavours with a mineral salty edge. Concentrated, floral hints and length to finish.
2020
Villa BucciVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Tombolini, Castelfiora, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Steely, powerful and direct with a leesy nose, baked apple, tangerine and brioche aromas. Zesty citrus flavours with a creamy texture and a long finish.
2020
TomboliniVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Vicari, L'Insolito del Pozzo Buono, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Classico Superiore, Le Marche, Italy, 2019
Very appealing wine with good structure and a floral, crisp and mineral edge. Delicate floral aromas and creamy texture. Good acidity and a touch of...
2019
VicariVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Tenuta dell'Ugolino, Le Piaole, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Le Marche, Italy, 2020
Good fruit concentration with ripe golden apples, pears, lightly floral fruits and citrus. Flavours of nuts and liquorice with juicy fruits. Long finish
2020
Tenuta dell'UgolinoVerdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Bisci, Verdicchio, Verdicchio di Matelica, Le Marche, Italy, 2021
Mellow, rounded and soft on the palate, lightly cidery with floral and herbal notes. Nutty with an appealing lemon bite on the aftertaste.
2021
BisciVerdicchio di Matelica
