Now, as he builds his own reputation beyond the Rolland legacy, Viaud is stepping further into the spotlight, keen to champion precision winemaking, the importance of site, and a new generation of terroir-focused Bordeaux wines.
‘I graduated as an agronomist and oenologist from Montpellier. I could have gone into oil extraction or gemmology, but it was the vine that captivated me – its ability to express place through grape varieties, soils and climate. After managing a vineyard in the South of France, I had the chance to cross paths with Michel and Dany Rolland in 2006, just as they were looking for a collaborator.
‘Michel, charismatic and direct, would encourage me to taste after him, calling out, “Taste, kid!” So I tasted a lot, created blends, always presenting them to him for feedback. It was the school of humility. You have to question yourself constantly, doubting how to move forward, and always strive to offer the best to the estates we work with.
‘Since February 2020, I’ve been a principal associate of the Rolland & Associés laboratory, alongside Mikael Laizet and Jean-Philippe Fort. Today, the lab advises more than 250 estates in 18 countries.
‘To be a consultant, you need good raw material – ripe, healthy grapes. Once that’s established, you need to understand how the soil works, how the plant behaves in that soil, and how the climate plays into it all. Most importantly, you need to work closely with the vineyard teams. A consultant is just an advisor – you have to integrate with the people on the ground. Knowing the vineyard well is two-thirds of the work. It allows us to anticipate what’s needed during vinification. Ideally, oenology should be a natural extension of viticulture and as non-corrective as possible.
‘One project that stands out is Muse in Lebanon. I discovered wonderfully endearing people – the kindness of the Lebanese really motivates me. I travelled through the Bekaa Valley, visited remote villages, and met farmer-vintners to taste grapes and raise awareness about the quality we were aiming for. I shared meals, drank mint tea, smoked the nargileh (tobacco pipe) – honest actions to show I was genuinely invested. Consulting isn’t just technical; it’s also cultural. You have to understand the local customs to move a project forward in an authentic way.
‘On my first day with Michel, we started at 6am and finished at 9pm, tasting dozens of fermenting samples in Bordeaux. I didn’t ask questions, I just followed, absorbed, and learned. At the end of the day, slumped in the car, Michel turned to me and said, “You want to know the secret to succeeding in this profession? A little bit of talent, a bit of luck, and above all a lot, a lot of work.” I still repeat that to myself today.
‘The Rolland school is one of common sense, hard work, and keeping focus on the wine’s identity. The first thing we ask when starting a new project is: “What wine do you want to make?”
‘Viticulturally, we’re dealing with increasingly frequent climate hazards in Bordeaux. That means vineyard management must be both reactive and precise. Oenology has undergone its revolution with more precise vinification and ageing processes, giving wines more aromatic brilliance and a better balance between tannic structure, concentration and freshness.
‘Now, the vineyard revolution is underway. Sustainable agriculture emerged about 30 years ago but today, thanks to innovative scientific technologies, we better understand soil microbiology, can anticipate disease pressure and develop water management models. Bordeaux must meet consumer demands – producing healthier wines with minimal input, maintaining biodiversity and managing the environmental impact. We must also be able to generate wealth and profitability, or we risk seeing vine agriculture disappear.
‘Commercially, we also need to engage younger consumers and stay relevant. I’m seeing a demand for more accessible wines, quick turnover styles, and even new grape varieties. Another example, I am creating a high-end cuvée showing a different image of a Grand Cru. It seems to me that nothing should be forbidden as long as we enhance the Bordeaux terroir and preserve the typicity of Bordeaux as a whole.
‘To achieve precision and creativity in this role you have to take an interest in the life of each estate. You can’t just arrive, make a blend, and leave. You need to work with the teams, but also maintain an outsider’s critical eye. Owners ask for technical and scientific expertise, constructive feedback and support in expressing the terroir and intended style. I always arrive determined to do the best possible job – and I don’t leave until every issue has been addressed, no matter the hour or the country.
‘The wine world is moving fast. Consumer habits are changing quickly too. What excites me is helping estates adapt in real time. I travel a lot, speak with importers and distributors, and always ask: “What’s selling? What are people asking for?” That feedback is fascinating – and it helps me bring relevant, creative solutions to my clients.’
