Best-value white Rioja: 18 top bottles to try
Rioja’s whites offer an intriguing range of styles – you could find a new favourite everyday food wine, or something to give your cellar collection a new spin. Decanter’s Spain Regional Editor selects 18 of the best-value to try now.
As recently as five years ago it would have been hard to consistently find white Riojas on wine shelves. For many UK consumers, ‘white Rioja’ might in fact have sounded like an oxymoron, the region’s name being associated with the red iterations that have become pantry staples.
Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 best-value white Rioja wines to try
However, in the third decade of the 21st century, white wines from Spain’s most famous wine region have emerged as one of the most exciting, fast-evolving categories not only of Spanish but of European wine at large. Today, most retailers list one white Rioja, if not more, and many – as is the case in this selection for The Wine Society, Tesco and Marks & Spencer – as part of their own ranges.
A fortunate combination of factors has allowed the style to increase its visibility and popularity. Greater demand for white wines, along with mounting prices from classic regions – not least Burgundy – happened just as Riojan producers rediscovered the region’s potential beyond reds, thus expanding their portfolios to reach a wider audience. For consumers, this means that a category that previously was mostly the domain of connoisseurs and collectors has now broadened its availability and its appeal – stylistically as well as price-wise.
Styles to explore
Most white Riojas are either single-variety or blends based on Viura. The generous-yielding, unfussy variety – elsewhere known as Macabeo/Macabeu – accounts for 68% of the area planted to white grapes in Rioja (and 6.1% of total vineyard area, according to DOCa Rioja data) and this dominance is reflected in the wines’ makeup. Winemakers explore Viura’s aromatic and textural potential differently, though, with some examples relying more on the exuberant orchard fruit and creamy citrus while others remain more restrained. Restraint leaves space for nuance, though, allowing herbal and vegetal subtleties to come to the forefront. Viura also has a Chardonnay-like affinity with wood, and well-judged oak adds a welcome nuttiness and smokiness for truly food-friendly – in many cases ageworthy – wines.
But winemakers are also taking advantage of the wider palette of varieties at their disposal. Of the other eight white grapes allowed by the DOCa, three stand out for their character and potential: Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Malvasía. Adding a splash of the latter to Viura is very common, lifting the fruit core with subtle floral notes. But I find that Tempranillo Blanco – a light-skinned natural mutation of the red of the same name that was discovered in 1988 in a vineyard southeast of Logroño – is yielding some of the region’s most interesting wines, both blended and on its own. With high acid and a poised structure, it holds fruit with ease while conveying a real sense of place.
Cellaring options
The selection of 18 wines that follows offers a great opportunity to begin an upwards journey; a first step in the discovery of wines that, at the higher end of the price spectrum, have begun to take up cellar space previously occupied by white Burgundy. From the lower shelf to the highest, there’s quality and value to be found. Many of the suggestions here have ‘bigger siblings’ – such as Sierra de Toloño’s Nahikun (2023, £27-£30 Lea & Sandeman, Ultracomida), López de Haro’s Classica Gran Reserva (2013, £42.95-£46.50 NY Wines, The Good Spirits Co), or Muga’s Flor de Muga (2021, £36 Laithwaites) – which you might want to discover if you’ve enjoyed their more affordable counterparts.
Best-value white Rioja: 18 top buys
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Sierra Cantabria, Organza Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
Weight and focus in a balanced, layered blend of Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca, where oak is a protagonist without ever becoming overpowering. Hay, chamomile and orange blossom hover over quince, pear, pineapple, yellow apple and frangipane - all sprinkled with toasted almonds and sweet spice. Held by a smoky cedary framework.
2021
Sierra CantabriaRioja
Viñedos El Pacto, El Pacto del Alto Najerilla, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Beautiful, nuanced nose led by camomile and wild flowers. Soft and wide on the palate with a delicious unctuosity coating the fleshy pear, melon and quince fruit. Zesty freshness brings the flavours into focus, a fine acid line offsetting the rich and wide mid-palate. Subtle and elegant use of wood adds a fine layer of toasted almonds and warm brioche.
2022
Viñedos El PactoRioja
Altos De Rioja, Altos R Pigeage, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
From Rioja Alavesa, old-vine Viura blended with Chardonnay and fermented in barrel. Weighty and creamy, with intense flavours of yellow apple, quince and frangipane. The fruit core on the palate is lined by spicy, toasty notes and a thin honeyed glaze. Very persistent, with lingering apricot, mango and honey-glazed almonds.
2022
Altos De RiojaRioja
Sierra de Toloño, Blanco, Rioja, Alavesa, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Perfumed nose with elegant, clearly etched notes of melon, Asian pear, camomile and apple blossom. The palate surprises for its focus and textural appeal, built around delicious salinity, lively acid and a robust mineral backbone. Finishes with a tail of fennel, white grapefruit zest and pear peel. A really interesting and pure take on Viura, from Rioja Alavesa.
2023
Sierra de ToloñoRioja
López de Haro, Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Fresh and delicately saline with a subtle warmth throughout, this is an elegant wine best enjoyed with food. A fruit core of quince, preserved lemon and white peach, the firm acid backbone keeping it taut throughout, aided by refreshing zestiness. Good weight on the mid-palate and a finish of lingering pear, melon and a luscious touch of glazed pineapple.
2023
López de HaroRioja
Bodegas Lacus, Inédito Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Well-judged oak adds a beautiful framework to this single-variety Garnacha Blanca. The ripeness of the peach, Asian pear and guava fruit is tamed by elegant notes of blanched almonds and toasted white bread. Creamy citrus coats the back palate and adds a soft unctuosity. Alluring finish with a delicious amaretto-like lingering note.
2022
Bodegas LacusRioja
Muga, Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Unctuous and briny, with an alluring touch of green olive and aniseed lining the pear, melon, yellow plum and white peach fruit. Creamy lemon curd and marzipan topped with yellow apple peel build a lovely, weighty presence on the mid-palate.
2023
MugaRioja
Viña Pomal, Fermentado en Barrica Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
A touch of Malvasía adds lovely florality to this Viura-based wine, lifting the fleshy stone fruit. Oak influence is upfront but well measured, contributing luscious marzipan, lemon curd and toasted almond flavours. Nuances of wild fennel, rosemary and tarragon, along with a seam of salinity, adds savoury appeal.
2023
Viña PomalRioja
Bodegas Riovinsa, Paco Real Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Fragrant top notes of rose petals, jasmine and apple blossom are followed by juicy white grapefruit, lime, pear peel, green apple, Asian pear, guava and green olives. Firm acid backbone, lovely zesty grip adding vibrancy throughout and a saline, briny finish. An ideal great companion to tapas.
2023
Bodegas RiovinsaRioja
Marques de Reinosa, Tempranillo Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
A really enjoyable, unfussy expression of Tempranillo Blanco. Mouthwatering yet generous with fleshy peach, yellow apple, Asian pear and pineapple drenched in lemon juice, a robust backbone with mineral freshness. Delicious backdrop of fennel, blanched almonds and freshly baked almond croissant.
2023
Marques de ReinosaRioja
Navajas, Crianza Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
Good flavour definition and structure in this oak-led, Viura-dominant (with a splash of Chardonnay) wine. Toasted almonds, vanilla, toasted white bread and dried mountain herbs cloak the fleshy white orchard fruit, melon and ripe citrus. Smoky on the finish with refreshing zestiness and a drying tannic grip.
2021
NavajasRioja
Ortega Ezquerro, Don Quintin Ortega, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2021
90% Viura with 10% Malvasia. Lemon curd, beeswax, pineapple and toasted brioche lead the nose. Gentle notes of camomile, apple blossom, vanilla and camphor hover playfully. Wide and long on the palate with good persistence. Lingering flavours of honeyed almonds, cooked quince and mango, under a fine layer of lanolin and lemon zest.
2021
Ortega EzquerroRioja
Baron de Ley, Tesco Finest Viña del Cura Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Good intensity and definition of flavour. Peach, mango, glazed pineapple, cooked pear and lemon zest mingle on the palate. A hint of toasted almonds, white flowers and dried herbs give it an unexpected edge of complexity. An everyday drinker that punches above its weight.
2022
Baron de LeyRioja
Bodegas Muriel, Barón de Barbón Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
Pleasant nuttiness and subtle smokiness underpinning the fleshy orchard fruit and creamy citrus. Good persistence with lingering notes of hay and wild flowers. Straightforward, juicy and elegant – a great everyday wine.
2023
Bodegas MurielRioja
CVNE, Barrel Fermented Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Lemon curd, frangipane and buttered croissant dominate the nose. The palate follows with moreish almonds and marzipan over fleshy melon, yellow apples and Asian pear. The use of American oak traces this wine's outline with a vivid line of vanilla, toasted coconut and baked pineapple, which linger on the palate.
2022
CVNERioja
Marqués de la Concordia, Lagunilla Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Good introduction to what Tempranillo Blanco can bring to a wine. The creamy citrus, juicy yellow orchard fruit and gentle nuttiness are framed by firm acidity and savoury herbal nuances. Pleasant width and weight for a moreishly unctuous feeling throughout.
2022
Marqués de la ConcordiaRioja
Bodega Classica, The Society's White Rioja, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2022
Soft and unctuous with a fine lining of cashews, bread dough and vanilla. The fruit core, fleshy yet crunchy, has melon, lemon curd, pear and a touch of pineapple. Straightforward, simple but refreshing, with a subtle salinity that calls for food.
2022
Bodega ClassicaRioja
Pagos del Rey, Marqués de los Zancos Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2023
A very well priced, everyday wine, fresh and approachable. Delicate notes of apple blossom and rose hover over peach, melon and green papaya. A soft layer of creamy citrus gives it a refreshing drive. One for fish or chicken-based midweek dinners.
2023
Pagos del ReyRioja
