Polish wine: Five things to know – and 17 wines to try

Can wines be made in Poland?

The short answer is yes – but that answer has come with a few caveats throughout history.

The first traces of viticulture in Poland date back more than 1,000 years, with vines initially cultivated by monasteries for religious purposes and wine enjoyed largely by the social elite. Viticulture gradually took root across Poland during the Middle Ages, particularly in the west and south, including around Zielona Góra in today’s Lubuskie and across Silesia. Over time, wine became increasingly popular beyond religious rituals.

From the 16th century onwards, however, a cooling climate (‘The Little Ice Age’) made viticulture increasingly challenging. Wars, economic and social changes brought further disruption over the following centuries, while the two World Wars and the communist era almost wiped out wine production in Poland.

The modern revival of Polish wine finally began in the 1980s, helped by a warming climate. Pioneer Roman Myśliwiec experimented extensively with grape varieties suited to Poland’s challenging conditions and promoted PiWi (fungus-resistant) grapes among fellow growers. From the early 2000s, producers increasingly turned to Vitis vinifera varieties, laying the foundations for the nation’s quality wine production as we know it today.

How much wine and where?

There are now more than 700 registered wine growers and producers in Poland, according to Krajowy Ośrodek Wsparcia Rolnictwa (KOWR, National Support Centre for Agriculture).

These producers spread across all 16 voivodeships (administrative regions) – an astonishing increase from merely three legally registered wine producers in 2009, helped by more wine-friendly legislation introduced in 2008, which made it easier for small growers to produce and sell their own wines.

Today, around 1,100ha of currently productive vineyards (that’s less than Pauillac!) are registered for winemaking (according to KOWR), mostly farmed by small-scale family operations, with new vineyards appearing every year. There are some relatively substantial producers, too – among the biggest are Winnica Warto, with a new 43ha vineyard near Poznań; Winnica Dom Charbielin, with 42ha in southwest Poland near the Czech border; and currently the biggest producer by volume, Winnica Turnau, whose 41ha vineyard lies in West Pomerania.

With its modern wine industry only revived over the past few decades, Poland does not yet have clearly defined wine regions in the way many of its Old World neighbours do. But a wine map is beginning to emerge, with vineyards concentrated particularly along the country’s western and southern reaches, as well as in central Poland and along its longest river, the Vistula.

What are the key grapes?

Given the severe winter temperatures, it’s unsurprising that the German-bred PiWi grape Solaris is by far the most planted wine grape in Poland. Other popular white grapes include Riesling, Chardonnay and other PiWi varieties such as Souvignier Gris and Johanniter.

From citrusy sweet wines to peachy dry whites and bright sparklers, Solaris is made in a wide variety of styles. Young plantings of Riesling are also starting to show serious potential, with the best examples offering honeyed citrus and floral character, backed by the variety’s hallmark freshness.

For reds, Pinot Noir has recently become the most widely planted red wine grape in Poland according to KOWR, with the top wines showcasing delightful berry fruit and an ethereal lightness. It is followed by the PiWi grapes Regent, Cabernet Cortis and Rondo, while there are also small plantings of Zweigelt.

The sparkling ambition

Then known as Grünberg, Zielona Góra in Lubuskie was home to Grempler & Co, established in 1826 and one of the first wineries to produce German Sekt. This historic wine hub was home to at least 150 wine cellars, while archaeologists estimate that, at its peak in the 1860s, there were around 2,000 vineyard plots covering an area of 1,400ha, according to records held by Muzeum Ziemi Lubuskiej (Lubusz Land Museum).

Although that number is now down to merely 40–50 plots, sparkling wine has been revived and refined as almost a local speciality over the last decade, driven by advocates such as French winemaker and consultant Guillaume Dubois and a passionate younger generation of producers.

Today’s top sparkling wines from Lubuskie tend to be made using the traditional method, with Riesling often playing a substantial role in the blend alongside the Champagne varieties, which Dubois believes hold the greatest quality potential in the still-challenging local climate – winter temperatures can drop below -20°C. Lovers of English sparkling wines might find plenty of similarities in their razor-sharp acidity and bright fruit characters.

Where to go for a day’s wine trip?

As part of its ongoing projects, the Tłocznia foundation has been working to clear and refurbish the city’s old wine cellars. Among the 150 discovered so far, more than 30 are currently in use – some converted into vibey event venues, restaurants and shops – while another 20 are being restored. The oldest cellar found so far lies beneath the town hall and dates back to the 15th century.

Take a glass with you (included in the festival package) for a walk around the old town, looking out for miniature Bacchus sculptures on every corner. You can choose from multiple cellar-hopping routes that include concerts, opera performances, art displays, stand-up comedy and food pairings. Winemakers will be waiting inside the cellars to pour their wines and share their stories, too, and you can buy your favourite bottles directly from them.

Getting there: For international visitors, the easiest gateway is Poznań, around two hours from Zielona Góra by car or direct train, with direct flights from London and other major European cities.

Read more about Polish wine: W. Bońkowski MW, M. Nowicki, T. Prange-Barczyński, Polish Wines: A Guide to Over 400 Wineries, Warsaw 2024

17 Pollish wines to try

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