The smart buyer's guide to... Malbec
There's a lot more to Malbec than oaky wines that go with steak. Ines Salpico urges fans to seek out the depth and nuance in this variety.
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There's a lot more to Malbec than oaky wines that go with steak. Ines Salpico urges fans to seek out the depth and nuance in this variety.
A variety, not a style
Malbec is mostly associated with the steak-friendly, sweet-fruited, often heavily oaked styles that became a staple in pubs and steakhouses in the early 2000s.
This is not, however, a true representation of the variety’s character and potential.
It can deliver beautiful aromatic nuances, with herbal and savoury touches over crunchy fruit, that make it delicious and elegant.
Elegance beyond wood
One of the best ways to explore Malbec’s true character is to delve into one of the most significant explorations around the variety in the last half decade: the use of a variety of fermentation and ageing vessels.
So seek out expressions vinified in ceramic and concrete, and prepare to be surprised.
Terroir matters
With the increasing understanding of the nuances of terroir across South America – not least in Mendoza – site-specific examples of Malbec convey the variety’s expressiveness and potential for nuance.
Instead of buying nondescript cross-regional blends, spend a bit more on bottles that clearly state a sub-region or even a specific vineyard.
Diverse complexity
Single-variety, single-clonal vineyards (and the resulting wines) are a modern invention, and South America is home to fascinating old massal selections (vines grown from cuttings taken from different high-performing, healthy plants within an existing old vineyard) of Malbec; their genetic diversity translates into more complex wines.
Do a bit of research on the producers that own this type of old vineyard and seek out their wines.
The right temperature
Malbec might be a summer barbecue must-have but it’s often served too warm. Make sure you chill it, bringing the bottle down to 14-16°C before opening.
Don’t be shy about leaving it in the ice bucket.
Make space in the cellar
Benchmark Malbecs have remarkable ageing potential – they’re among the fine wine world’s most overlooked marathon runners.
If you splash out on top Malbecs, patience will bring you great, unexpected rewards.
Pour similar-aged Cabernet Sauvignons alongside them to surprise your guests and challenge their assumptions.
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Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.