2002 white Burgundy
Ripe with balancing acidity. Good ageing potential.
A cool May retarded the flowering, but it took place in good conditions. July and August were dry and warm, but not too hot, and thankfully there were no violent storms. By the beginning of September, thanks to the drought, development had become somewhat blocked. There was then some much-needed rain, followed by fine weather, sunny, but cool at night. Volumes were reduced by a cooling north wind, the fruit concentrated, yet acidity levels were preserved. The harvest began in the Côte d’Or on September 15th. Maturity was a little irregular, and those who waited a week benefited greatly. The fruit was very healthy and it was hardly necessary to chaptalise. The crop was large, some three percent above the five year average.
MACONNAIS (Inc. Pouilly-Fuissé) The danger with Pouilly-Fuissés, particularly if they are the oaky versions, is that in hot, concentrated vintages they can be too alcoholic; top heavy wines lacking zip. There are one or two of these in 2002. Thankfully most are more harmonious. They are full bodied, fat and lush. Even the best Mâcon Blanc Villages will still improve. Save the Pouilly-Fuissés for another 12 months. CÔTE CHALONNAISE A very fine year. Chalonnaise wines always have good acidities. This balances the 2002 fullness and richness. Drink from 2006. CÔTE D’OR ‘It is rare,’ said Jean-Pierre Latour of Domaine Latour-Giraud in Meursault, ‘to have such concentration and richness balanced by high alcohol and such very good acidities.’ Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne are all great successes. The one weakness is in the Corton-Charlemagnes harvested above Aloxe and Ladoix. Here there was a violent storm on September 12th. There are uneven wines as a result. The best premier cru Côte d’Or white Burgundies need holding until 2008. Grands crus need to be kept until 2010. CHABLIS Two thousand and two is a fine year for Chablis. As elsewhere the wines are both rich and well balanced with acidity. Even the basic Chablis will still improve. The premiers crus will come round from 2007 onward; the grands crus from 2009. They will keep well. There is a consistency here which was lacking in 2000.
MACONNAIS: Bret Bros; Cordier; Corsin; Ferret; Guffens-Heynen; Lafon; Olivier Merlin; Saumaize; Saumaize-Michelin; Rijckairt; Soufrandise; Valette.
CÔTE CHALONNAISE: Aladame; Vincent Dureuil-Janthial; Domaine de La Folie; Grangemoulin; Jacquesson; Michel Juillot; François Lummp; A & P. de Villaine.
CÔTE D’OR: Bonneau du Martray; Carillon; Coche-Dury; Marc Colin; Colin-Déléger; Jean-Noël Gagnard; Javillier; Lafon; Hubert Lamy; Latour-Giraud; Leflaive; Chateau de la Maltroye; Ramonet; Roulot; Sauzet. Plus négociants Bouchard Père & Fils, Drouhin, Girardin and Jadot.
CHABLIS: Alain Besson; Billaud-Simon; R & V Dauvissat; Droin; Drouhin; William Fèvre; Dom. des Malandes; Louis Michel; Christian Moreau; Raveneau; Gérard Tremblay.