Stephen Brook gives his top three wines from the Clarion Wines Burgundy 2008 tasting
The Clarion Wines tasting featured a grower that’s new to me: Tessier in Meursault, who only began bottling in 2006.
My personal preference is for lean, racy whites, but in this high-acidity year many Burgundy lovers might prefer a richer, broader style, which is what Tessier clearly does very well.
Meursaults Les Charmes Dessus: Rich appley nose; full-bodied, spicy, and concentrated, quite powerful too, and while succulent and quite forward this also has good acidity and length. 17. £480 IB.
Another excellent white comes from Fontaine Gagnard:
Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie: firm nose with lime and apple aromas and disacreet oak. Supple, creamy, and concentrated, this has good underlying acidity, and shows a direct accessible style. Should be approachable young. 17. £300 IB.
Monthelie is an often overlooked village behind Volnay. Domaine Darviot Perrin is based there and has produced an appealing and inexpensive red:
Monthelie ‘Les Crays’: Crunchy, lifted red-fruits nose; lean and crisp, bright and vivacious, not profound but vivid and appealing. Drink soon for its sparkling fruit. 16.5. £129.
Stephen Brook
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