Amarone: Riserva, single-vineyard and special-selection – panel tasting results

11 different vintages ranging from 2015 (the most recent from most wineries) back to a sole, brave example from distant 1998!

Entry criteria Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Riserva, single-vineyard or special-selection Amarone della Valpolicella wines

Four vintages accounted for nearly 75% of the wines: in descending order 2015 (25%), 2012 (22%), 2013 (14%) and 2011 (11%).

Significantly, the top eight wines featured six different vintages – a clear indication that vintage is not always quite such a key consideration with Amarone. While the winemaking process itself makes these sumptous and challenging wines tick, it should nonetheless be noted that no wines from the generally poor 2014 vintage managed to achieve our Highly Recommended rating.

Quick link See all Amarone tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

Sub-zones and styles

Regarding denominations, entries from Amarone Classico dominated (49 wines), more than one-third of which were Riservas. This area tends to produce wines of a more expansive and elegant character.

From the broader Valpolicella denomination (where the wines are typically denser and more muscular), there were 21 examples and just under a quarter of these were Riservas.

A sole example from the Valpantena sub-zone (lighter, fruitier wines) completed the line-up.

The higher-scoring wines were mainly either Classico or Classico Riserva, but there was no Amarone Riserva from the broader DOCG area among the Highly Recommended wines.

Quite fortuitously, the top three Outstanding wines were each a different expression of the principal interpretations of Amarone, including a ‘regular’ version (Brigaldara’s lovely 2015), a premium ‘modernist’ wine (Dal Forno’s immense 2012) and a mature Riserva (the glorious Corte San Benedetto, Camporal 2009). Once again Amarone ‘delivered’, irrespective of any considerations of sub-genre: no single style or denomination truly stood out.

Expectations were mixed: while Andrew Jefford felt that Amarone is a wonderfully exciting wine to taste, Monty Waldin was more cautious, wary of huge wines with too much oak and residual sugar. However he was won over by the combination of big, bold fruit characters, persuasive texture and dry, savoury finish that marked out the best examples. Jefford agreed that balance was key: oak, sugar, generous alcohol levels and tannins work well in tandem when no one element overshadows the others.

Ageability

Perhaps the most noteworthy outcome was the fact that young, medium-mature and fully developed wines all found favour. The ageing potential of Amarone is very much a moot point: while there is no denying that the best wines are indeed capable of taking a couple of decades in their stride, they are nonetheless enjoyable and approachable at pretty much every stage in their development, as the results of this tasting demonstrate very clearly.

Whether these wines are best drunk young or cellared is the million-dollar question. Jefford’s view summed up the general feeling: ‘I’d drink them now, but the best do indeed age very well. Do they get better though? I’m not sure.’

My own view is that each wine has its own path: whereas Dal Forno’s Amarone is clearly years from being ready, Brigaldara’s wine is drinking beautifully already, so why wait? One issue however is beyond debate: the panel agreed unequivocally that Amarone offers very good value for money.

The Judges

Michael Garner, Andrew Jefford, Monty Waldin

Top Amarone from the panel tasting:

See all Amarone tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting

About Amarone

Amarone is produced throughout the Valpolicella denomination (including the sub-zones of Classico and Valpantena) from grapes dried until at least 1 December following the vintage and fermented out to a minimum of 14% alcohol. The wine may contain a maximum of between 12g/L and about 16g/L of sugar (depending on its total alcohol content), though 5-7g/L is more common. The wine is aged for a minimum of two years from the year following the vintage or for four years (beginning in November) for Riserva.

During its formative years in the second half of the 20th century, Amarone established a reputation as a ‘niche’ wine. Its unique production process of appassimento (drying the grapes) resulted in an instantly recognisable style: a rich, round red with aromas and flavours of semi-dried fruit, a high alcohol content and, frequently, generous levels of residual sugar.

However the introduction of ‘controlled appassimento’ towards the end of the 1990s opened up a whole new world: the use of giant fans and dehumidifers eliminated the risk of grey rot which had previously ruined many a crop of drying fruit. With supply lines of healthy raw materials finally secured, Amarone was no longer a rarity and production figures spiralled upwards at an alarming rate.

Three key styles

Over the first decade of the new millennium, the number of bottles produced annually tripled and now averages above 18 million. Amarone’s traditional role as vino da meditazione (a post-prandial to be sipped while discussing the finer things in life) was called into question. High alcohol and sugar levels make the wine a tricky match with food and, given the massive upsurge in production, Amarone had to find a place at table to keep pace with the consumer’s changing lifestyle.

Many producers went back to the drawing board: the rediscovery of long-forgotten grape varieties; more ‘complete’ fermentations heading towards a drier style; experiments with different-sized barrels and wood types, etc – all aimed at reshaping the wine’s identity.

Others dug their heels in and remained faithful to the time-honoured ways. Indeed, some continued to accept the presence of a small proportion of the fungus in its ‘larval’ or nascent form, ie: before full sporulation. As such, Muffa nobile or noble rot can confer expansive and developed aromas of macerated fruits plus the honeyed notes typical of botrytised wines and, in addition, boosts glycerol levels, enhancing the wine’s velvety texture.

The upshot of this activity accounts for the surprisingly wide spectrum of aromas and flavours typical of today’s Amarone. Three styles dominate current production. A simpler version usually with less wood ageing showcases its friendlier side: many believe that Amarone is best drunk by its 10th birthday when the wine is still all about roundness, softness and harmony.

Smaller batches of a grower’s very finest fruit are fermented separately and often given extra wood ageing; this ‘premium’ or Riserva version is capable of lasting for up to 20 years or so in bottle. Finally, the more ‘modernist’ interpretation of Amarone embraces a more concentrated, longer-lived and less oxidative style of wine through the use of controlled appassimento and mainly smaller (225L or 500L) new oak barrels.

Know your vintages

2015 A long, hot and dry summer gave big, ripe and rich wines with good phenolic maturity. Potentially excellent wines which mainly need keeping.

2014 A notoriously wet and cool year: while many wines are perfectly drinkable, they are not great either. To be drunk young.

2013 A cooler than average summer was followed by a warm and sunny autumn. The wines are particularly aromatic and the best show real finesse. Drink from 2020.

2012 Weather conditions turned patchy after an intensely hot summer. These big, generous wines are beginning to drink well.

2011 A highly touted vintage producing balanced wines which are approaching their peak. Drink or keep for three to five years.

2010 A cooler than average vintage: while perhaps lacking flesh, the wines have good aromas and are mainly fully mature.

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