Brunello di Montalcino Vintage Report: The best of the ‘intense’ new 2021 wines

With its 14th century fortress and landmark clock tower, the walled medieval town of Montalcino has altered little over the two decades I’ve been roaming its cobblestone streets. Its wine scene, on the other hand, continues to evolve.

Recent changes include an increased allowance for Rosso di Montalcino production and the abolishment of the consorzio’s five-star rating system for Brunello. Most exciting, though, is the rise of a new generation at both historic and younger estates.

These fresh faces are crucial for keeping one of Italy’s benchmark red wines relevant, and they are behind some of my favourite picks from the just-released 2021 vintage.

I visited Montalcino in early September that year. By then, the figurative dust and anxiety surrounding the spring frost had long since settled. The vines had survived the dry, hot summer thanks to a couple of downpours late in the season.

As the sun beat down during my vineyard visits, it still felt like the height of summer – that is, until dusk fell. Those chilly nights fuelled the palpable sense of optimism for the imminent harvest.

2021: Vintage character

Three key elements of the growing season shaped the character of the wines in 2021. First, early April frost resulted in losses upwards of 50% in some pockets. For luckier growers, it simply served as a ‘natural green harvest’.

Next, the summer was hot though not torrid, but more significantly, the lack of precipitation was second only to 2003. Yet as vines were carrying a lighter load, water stress was curbed, particularly with rain arriving just in the nick of time.

The resulting grapes were small and concentrated. Finally, marked diurnal temperatures differences leading up to harvest helped to preserve beautiful acidity and encouraged complex aroma and flavour development.

Over four years later, with wines now in bottle and set for release, producers’ early enthusiasm has developed into widespread appreciation. ‘2021 has the precision of 2016 with the concentration of 2019,’ declares Argiano’s Bernardino Sani. ‘The only risk was to over-concentrate.’

Le Chiuse’s Lorenzo Magnelli concurs. ‘With small berries and lots of skins, it was important to have a light hand to preserve elegance’. For the first time ever, he trialled a ‘reverse saignée’, essentially removing the top 10-centimetre layer of the cap to balance out the ratio with the juice.

2021 was a particularly difficult year for Cupano. Shortly after its vineyards were decimated by frost, owner Lionel Cousin passed away. Nevertheless, his right hand, Andrea Polidoro called it a beautiful vintage. ‘It shows how Sangiovese can taste in a warm, dry year with lots of fruit and energy – which was lacking in 2020.’

He likens it to 2013 but with more layers.

Divergent opinions

At the neighbouring Camigliano estate, winemaker Sergio Cantini recalls a similar frost in 2001, but describes the wines’ character as comparable to 2015. ‘2021 has more finesse of structure though’, he specifies. I tend to agree.

Rising star Tommaso Squarcia at Castello Tricerchi is less bullish. ‘I have to be honest, everyone thinks 2021 is a legendary vintage,’ he states. ‘It is good, but not legendary.’ Between the frost and drought, he points out the similarities with 2017, though admits that 2021 wasn’t as hot.

‘I am happy with our 2021s because they are fresh’, he says, adding that he believes 2022 will be better.

As always, the divergent opinions and experiences reflect Montalcino’s diversity. This has finally been captured by the first-ever vineyard map depicting the heterogenous altitude, exposure and situation of every plot.

The consorzio-led initiative is accompanied by a significant increase of weather stations to give a more comprehensive overview of the growing year while generating more precise data about each specific pocket of vineyards. It should also provide a useful tool for producers as they continue to confront the vagaries of climate.

New faces; New challenges

Movers and shakers

Overall, estates’ classic Brunellos are almost every bit as good as their ‘selection’ counterparts in 2021, even while the latter continues to increase in number. An alternative to Riserva, these selection bottlings typically come from single vineyards, offering a site-specific expression.

Campogiovanni takes this concept to its extreme with its micro-parcel P#327 label. The second release, its 2021 is notable for its energy and tension.

In the case of Lisini’s promising new wine, Poggio Severo is a direct response to the changing climate. ‘After witnessing vines at lower elevations suffering in the increasingly hot and dry summers, we wanted to explore higher elevations,’ explains Ludovica Lisini.

The tiny estate of L’Aietta is an exciting new discovery for me. Here, Francesco Mulinari’s miniscule ‘Alberelli’ bottling (first made in 2019) hails from his original plot of bush vines.

Once traditional in the region, bush vines (also known as alberello) are making a minor comeback. While prized for their resilience in drought conditions, Mulinari points out the drawback: ‘Low hanging fruit makes it easier for even the smallest wild boar to eat’.

Addressing both climate and younger drinkers, Santiago Cinzano Marone from Col d’Orcia unveiled his CMC Lot 1 with the 2019 vintage last year. With the unpredictable weather, he observed that the same single plot does not necessarily excel each vintage.

As such, he defines the project as an itinerant cru. As for the style, ‘it is round rather than austere, made for my generation’, he describes. The 2020 is among a handful of solid late releases included in my recommendations.

Similarly, Giodo has introduced a new label called Prètto. Thirty-five-year-old Bianca Ferrini works with her father Carlo to select lots that exhibit the most immediacy, approachability and vibrancy. It will sell for approximately half the price of the winery’s flagship Brunello.

New labels

Finally, Montalcino also welcomes a couple of new brands. With the 2020 vintage, the Cecchi family launched Aminta, featuring the young Giulia Cecchi at the helm. There has also been much hype around the boutique JG Benda label. 2021 represents the first vintage of Brunello, though the estate declined to provide samples to journalists given the limited quantity.

The vintage reveals no shortage of up and comers. Besides Castello Tricerchi, I was charmed by Valeria Vittori’s lovely wines at Molino di Sant’Antimo in Montalcino’s southeastern extreme.

And nearby La Palazzetta continues to show promise with second-generation winemaker Luca Fanti. I am also keeping an eye on Ruffino’s Greppone Mazzi estate, under the guidance of Alberto Stella since 2024, and Mastrojanni, where Giulia Harri has presided since 2022 – the same year she was awarded Best Young Italian Winemaker by Italian magazine Vinoway.

On the outgoing side, longtime winemaker Cecilia Leoneschi recently announced her departure from Castiglion del Bosco. And after over two decades managing Castello Banfi, Enrico Viglierchio has left for a similar role with Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards, whose Montalcino properties include Podere Brizio and Poggio Landi.

Brunello 2021: Who is it for?

While some examples will be ready to divulge their charms immediately, others will require more time for simmering nuances to bubble to the surface – or in some cases for their power and exuberance to temper. I am more confident in the ageing potential of 2021 than I was with 2020 and currently suggest a window of 10 to 15-plus years.

Top names like Canalicchio di Sopra, Le Chiuse, Le Potazzine, Poggio di Sotto and Salvioni shine in 2021. Le Ragnaie’s Casanovina Montosoli and Pieve Santa Restituta’s Sugarille vie for the vintage’s top wine along with Il Marroneto’s classic Brunello. The latter is the absolute epitome of 2021’s elegant side.

Other wines built along graceful lines are Castello Romitorio, Tassi’s Giuseppe Tassi, Talenti and Val di Suga. For more opulent examples, seek out Camgliano’s Paesaggio Inatteso, Fattoi, La Fiorita, and Argiano’s Vigna del Suolo. Meanwhile, Pietroso and Uccelliera are among the vintage’s brawnier specimens.

As such, 2021 is a vintage that will satisfy the hedonist looking to dive right in as well as the collector who revels in future rewards. In either case, the wines will deliver plenty of bang for the buck.

However – as always – buyers are well advised to read the fine print (aka the reviews), rather than react recklessly to the scores to ensure that their purchases correspond to personal tastes.

Brunello di Montalcino 2021: Michaela’s top picks

All the scores

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