vintage champagne
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Every year for the past few years, it has been my pleasurable task to select an especially interesting style or segment from the world of Champagne, and to subject it to an in-depth tasting and analysis.

Last year, as published in Decanter, this took the form of a huge (and enjoyable) review of Reims and Epernay’s great prestige cuvées. In 2013 it was rosé Champagne and, prior to that, blanc de blancs was the object of my scrutiny. But for this year’s tasting, I have tackled something far more challenging: a comparison of two vintages which are similar in age, but very different in character – 2000 and 2002.

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Louis Roederer, Cristal, Champagne, France, 2002

My wines
Locked score

Twenty years is a sweet spot for Cristal said Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon during the Decanter masterclass in New York and this 2002 didn't disappoint. Floral notes...

2002

ChampagneFrance

Louis Roederer

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Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Champagne 2000

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Locked score

After hot weather early in the year, Champagne was hit in 2000 with hail and rain. Fortunately, conditions improved late in the year, and the...

2000

ChampagneFrance

Taittinger

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Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Champagne, France, 2002

My wines
Locked score

Youthful vigour and purity of green fruits, hazlenuts and a touch of fennel. Great subtlety.

2002

ChampagneFrance

Taittinger

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Perrier-Jouët, Belle Epoque, Épernay, Champagne, 2000

My wines

95

Light and elegant with an expressive, floral and beautiful aromatic juicy structure as it was in its infancy, but today has more nutty and fine, creamy vanilla tones.

2000

ÉpernayFrance

Perrier-Jouët

Pol Roger, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Champagne, France 2002

My wines

95

More about structural fascination than aromatic pleasure. With its high acidity and simultaneously rich and impressive depth, this is reminiscent of the heroic 1996, and is equipped to develop far into the future.

2002

ChampagneFrance

Pol Roger

Jacques Selosse, Avize, Champagne, France, 2002

My wines

95

Wonderfully open and rounded, with an exoticism and beauty typical of Selosse, while also being very true to the character of the vintage.

2002

ChampagneFrance

Jacques Selosse

Louis Roederer, Cristal, Reims, Champagne, France, 2000

My wines

95

Sadly now in something of a lacklustre phase, but on first tasting this was delightfully sensual, seductively mellow and silkily replete with honey-toffee notes. At that stage the fruit was young and bursting with energy, with tones of spring flowers, gooseberries, papaya, redcurrants, pineapple and mango.

2000

ReimsFrance

Louis Roederer

Dom Pérignon, Champagne, France, 2002

My wines
Locked score

Wonderfully caressing and typical. The silkiness and balance impress most, along with a fluffy, creamy tone and stylish nuttiness. A great Dom Pérignon that charms...

2002

ChampagneFrance

Dom Pérignon

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Krug, Champagne, France, 2000

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In its current condition, extremely mineral-driven and sea-splashed, showing iodine, oyster shells and a light, pleasant bready aroma. Crispy-clean and beautifully balanced flavour. Impressive acidity...

2000

ChampagneFrance

Krug

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Vilmart & Cie, Coeur de Cuvée, Rilly La Montagne, 2002

My wines

94

Very great wine, which is slightly dumb now, yet structurally grand. It is starting to show both muscles and feeling. An impressively rich and juicy rendition of Vilmart.

2002

ChampagneFrance

Vilmart & CieRilly La Montagne

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne, France, 2000

My wines

94

Well-constructed with enormous vigour and capacity for ageing. Piper- Heidsieck has a track record of producing Champagnes that develop slowly and beautifully over time, and this vintage is already worthy of a higher score than it merited on first tasting.

2000

ChampagneFrance

Piper-Heidsieck

Louis Roederer, Blanc de Blancs, Reims, Champagne, 2002

My wines

94

<p>Much more straightforwardly seductive than the standard vintage Louis Roederer from this vintage. It has a sublime aroma of white lilies, vanilla, lemon pie, coconut and acacia. Pure and elegant with a satin-like caress from start to finish.</p>

2002

ReimsFrance

Louis Roederer

Ruinart, Dom Ruinart, Champagne, France, 2002

My wines
Locked score

In 2002, it was almost impossible not to make good wine, and Dom Ruinart was a blessed creation, 72% of fruit coming from Avize and Chouilly...

2002

ChampagneFrance

Ruinart

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Richard Juhlin
Decanter Magazine, Champagne Expert & Regional Chair for Champagne

Richard Juhlin is the author of seven books on Champagne and a freelance writer contributing to magazines including Spectacle du Monde, La Revue de Champagne and Wine International. He also runs The Richard Juhlin Champagne Club, through which he arranges tours to Champagne and manages the members-only Richard Juhlin Champagne Bars in Stockholm and Copenhagen. The recipient of numerous awards, Juhlin was made a Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole in 2002, and last year he was presented with l’Ordre National de la Légion d’honneur for his contribution to Champagne. Richard Juhlin was Regional Chair for Champagne at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2018.