Top Côtes du Rhône wines under £20/$25
Matt Walls recently tasted more than 100 Rhône wines, spanning red, white and rosé styles, to choose the 50 best under £20/$25. Here are his top picks from Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages...
When tasting wines for the Rhône under £20 feature in the December issue of Decanter, more than a third were AP Côtes du Rhône.
It was a highly variable assortment from this generic appellation (some were dreadful), but the best were really delightful wines, some for as little as £10/$15 a bottle.
If you’re looking for value, exploring the straight Côtes du Rhône of top producers such as Stéphane Ogier, Domaine Alain Voge and Domaine Gramenon is a shrewd place to start – in good vintages, they are some of the most convincing bargains of the wine world.
Côtes du Rhône villages
As expected, there were plenty of rewarding options among the Côtes du Rhône ‘Named Villages’. If you’re looking for robust reds, Plan de Dieu is an obvious place to start; for finesse, try Sablet.
One of my personal favourites is Massif d’Uchaux, an intriguing limestone and sandstone terroir hidden among woodland producing tense, vibrant reds that remain, for the time being, largely undiscovered. Try them.
Colour and vintage
I found the standard of white wines to be remarkably steady – if anything, more reliable than the reds. That said, there were fewer that really stood out.
Cheaper whites are generally best drunk young, but I found a couple from 2017 drawn from old vines in good sites that were mature and drinking well.
Getting the vintage right can make all the difference, especially at the cheaper end. If in doubt, with inexpensive reds, go young. And if this means 2019, so much the better; it’s shaping up to be a ripe, vibrant and juicy vintage.
See also: New Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation granted – Nyons
Top Côtes du Rhône wines under £20/$25
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Domaine Alain Voge, Les Peyrouses, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2016
92
Made from the younger Syrah vines (less than 10 years old) of Domaine Voge in Cornas. An interesting nose, with some herbal notes and an underlying smokiness. Medium-bodied, smooth and generous for a Côtes du Rhône Syrah, with great energy and vibrancy on the palate. Not endlessly complex, but it’s harmonious, balanced and fine.
2016
Domaine Alain VogeCôtes du Rhône
Domaine Saint Gayan, L’Oratory, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Sablet, Rhône, France, 2017
91
A blend of Viognier, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, all hand-harvested. Still in good form, taking on a little hot-sand aroma and a slight nuttiness from age. Well balanced, with a subtle mineral line and remarkable length for an inexpensive wine. No longer in the vibrancy of youth, but has taken on a real harmony and balance. Good value.
2017
Domaine Saint GayanCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de Dionysos, Jardin de Robert, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Massif d'Uchaux, Rhône, France, 2016
91
Lovely lifted berry aromas and wood spice nicely intertwined, ready to drink now. No excess weight, medium-bodied; has all the upright freshness and tension you want from a Massif d’Uchaux. A genuine expression of terroir.
2016
Domaine de DionysosCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine de l'Espigouette, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Plan de Dieu, Rhône, France, 2017
91
A hefty, balanced expression among the hulking Plan de Dieu wines. Beguiling nose with confit red-fruit aromas, juniper and rosemary. Currant fruit on the palate. Ready now.
2017
Domaine de l'EspigouetteCôtes du Rhône Villages
Domaine Gramenon, Poignée de Raisins, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
91
Grenache grown at 350m in the far north of the southern Rhône. Grapes are partially destemmed, fermented with natural yeasts and macerated for 15 days. Vibrant and open aromas, medium body, good concentration.
2019
Domaine GramenonCôtes du Rhône
Domaine La Lôyane, Cuvée Bonheur, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
91
From a young estate on the Rhône’s west bank. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, bottled unfiltered. Bright, packed with freshly squished berries, ripe tannins. Sun-warmed, with a wealth of fruit. Wine to sink your teeth into.
2019
Domaine La LôyaneCôtes du Rhône
Stéphane Ogier, Le Temps est Venu, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2017
91
Ogier is known for Côte-Rôtie, but made this from grapes bought from southern Rhône vineyards. Well balanced and harmonious, silky on the palate, shot through with plentiful fine tannins – the texture has been expertly managed in what can be a roughly tannic year. Elegant; could pass for a cru.
2017
Stéphane OgierCôtes du Rhône
Bruno Lafon & François Chamboissier, Un Bon Canon, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Signargues, Rhône, France, 2016
90
From the galets roulés of the Rhône’s southernmost Named Village wine. Flinty sparks rise from the glass, but there’s ample juicy berry fruit, still fresh with marked acidity. Fine tight tannins, and a focused finish that masks its alcohol.
2016
Bruno Lafon & François ChamboissierCôtes du Rhône Villages
Château Mont-Redon, Réserve Mont-Redon, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
90
Fermented between 14°C-16°C for four weeks, with malolactic blocked, producing a medium-bodied, restrained white wine with a degree of drinkability and crispness that is fairly unusual for the southern Rhône. Fresh, with a crisp citrussy flourish on the finish.
2019
Château Mont-RedonCôtes du Rhône
Domaine Pique-Basse, L’Atout du Pique, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Roaix, Rhône, France, 2018
90
Considering what a key component Grenache Blanc is in southern Rhône whites, it’s surprisingly rare to find a pure varietal example. From one of the best estates in Roaix, this is from 45-year-old vines yielding 35hl/ha, with a lovely depth of pear and dried apple fruit with almond notes. It’s full-bodied but not heavy, and it has a good sense of ripeness. Lots to enjoy here. A very classic style of southern Rhône white, without excess alcohol or overoaking. Toasted almond finish. Organic.
2018
Domaine Pique-BasseCôtes du Rhône Villages
Ferraton Père & Fils, Samorëns, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2018
90
Grown on clay-limestone soils. No malolactic fermentation. Slight spritz on the palate, but it contributes to the freshness and vibrancy of the wine. Very fresh, with good balance, harmony and length. Bright apricot and mango come together in a really drinkable style.
2018
Ferraton Père & FilsCôtes du Rhône
Domaine la Collière, Les Bergeronnettes, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2017
90
You might be wary of a 2017 generic Côtes du Rhône blanc, but this comes from hand-harvested old vines grown on good Rasteau terroir, with one third fermented and matured in demi-muids. It’s taken on a dry hay and lanolin edge now, but still has good vibrancy and life on the palate. In a good place now; far from over the hill, but pleasingly mature.
2017
Domaine la CollièreCôtes du Rhône
Domaine Saint Laurent, La Tamardière, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhône, France, 2016
90
This is grown on galets roulés by a fifth-generation, family-owned estate located near Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It has a discreet, gently herbal nose, pleasantly harmonious now, with a balance of sweetly ripe fruit, firm acidity, freshness and a softly toothsome texture.
2016
Domaine Saint LaurentCôtes du Rhône Villages
Château Courac, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Laudun, Rhône, France, 2017
89
Measured, straight, fresh and harmonious, the alcohol is a little raised, but this has a good sense of focus. It has an appealing spicy, smoky backnote. A big wine, but it remains fresh and not overly weighty.
2017
Château CouracCôtes du Rhône Villages
Boutinot, La Fleur Solitaire, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
89
Mostly made in stainless steel, with 25% fermented and matured for six months in third-use 300L oak barrels. Relaxed orchard fruit, peach and apricot, very full-bodied and languorous on the palate, spreading across the tongue. Just enough acidity to be enjoyably drinkable. Surprisingly long. Drink young.
2019
BoutinotCôtes du Rhône
Gabriel Meffre, St-Vincent, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
89
Grenache Blanc and Viognier grown in the Gard, blended with Roussanne and Clairette grown in the Vaucluse. There’s a little copper touch to the colour. Fresh pear and sugared almond scents. Medium-bodied, just dry enough, and a little grippiness to the texture. Not complex, but classically Rhône, in a fairly commercial style. Well balanced.
2019
Gabriel MeffreCôtes du Rhône
E Guigal, Rosé, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2018
89
A salmon-pink rosé fermented and aged in stainless steel, and it’s remarkably fresh still for a 2018, with good balancing acidity. Has some grip and character – would work with or without food. Good intensity of fresh berry flavour, raspberry and redcurrant.
2018
E GuigalCôtes du Rhône
Domaine Santa Duc, Les Quatre Terres, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2018
89
Good purity of soft, strawberry fruit. This has more intensity and concentrated fruit than many 2018s. Acidity is quite pointed, but there’s length here, and generosity.
2018
Domaine Santa DucCôtes du Rhône
Jean Loron, La Galetière, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
89
Made by a négociant based in Beaujolais. There’s some depth to the fruit on the nose here, with a slight reductive lift to the aromas. Medium-bodied, but there’s a discreet sense of richness to the fruit, without overripeness. Touch of liquorice. Well made, well balanced, with a ripe tannic base.
2019
Jean LoronCôtes du Rhône
Ogier, Héritages, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2019
89
Aromatically discreet on the nose, not giving much away at this stage. Liquorice and blackberry can be coaxed out with air. Medium-bodied, dry and upright style, the tannins are quite straight and a little reedy. I would give this another year. It’s good, not rich, but well made. An elegant style of Côtes du Rhône at an extraordinarily low price.
2019
OgierCôtes du Rhône
Domaine du Séminaire, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Valréas, Rhône, France, 2018
88
Really vibrant nose, beautifully fruity, with none of the drawbacks of the 2018 vintage (see p34). Full, opulently fruity, but with quite searing acidity on the palate. Nice sense of ‘northern quarter’ vibrancy.
2018
Domaine du SéminaireCôtes du Rhône Villages
