Anson: Château Fleur Cardinale wines from 2009 to 2016
Jane Anson tastes seven vintages of Château Fleur Cardinale, based in a dynamic corner of St-Emilion, and talks to marketing director Caroline Decoster about being part of the family business.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
You are now subscribed
Your newsletter sign-up was successful
The 23.5ha Château Fleur Cardinale was promoted to Grand Cru Classé in 2006 and is located in the eastern side of St-Emilion, next-door to Château Valandraud, a Premier Grand Cru Classé B estate.
This is a corner of the appellation, in a commune called St-Etienne-de-Lisse, where the soils are cooler limestones and red clays.
They giving later-ripening fruit and the area has benefited from more suitable viticultural techniques in recent years, along with more consistently warm years.
Scroll down for Jane Anson’s Fleur Cardinale tasting notes and scores
This led to a rash of newly classified neighbours in the 2012 St-Emilion Classification. Château de Pressac is also here, as is Faugères and Peby-Faugères, and it’s become an extremely dynamic corner of the St-Emilion appellation.
Five questions with marketing director Caroline Decoster
JA: What does Fleur Cardinale mean to you?
CD: It’s a family adventure that began in 2001 when my parents-in-law, Florence and Dominique Decoster, bought this château after selling their porcelain business in Limoges, and it continues every day.
It also means working with my in-laws and my husband, and being part of a family business is very special. This is one of the very few classified properties in Bordeaux where the family not only lives on the estate but also makes the wine. We each have our roles but all work together with the same goal.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
JA: Where would you recommend to visitors to St-Emilion?
CD: My favourite place for walking in to St-Emilion is through Porte Brunet, behind Ch. Villemaurine on the eastern side, which is part of the ancient walls and six original gates that date back to the 12th century. It’s the quietest way in, almost always deserted, and you can imagine how the city felt in the Middle Ages.
JA: What is your favourite food?
CD: I love food that takes a long time to cook, that you need to think about; buy the ingredients in advance and invite a group round to share it with. It’s usually a family recipe, with lots of vegetables – which means plenty of chopping – and slow cooked so the aromas fill the whole house, cocooning you and building up your appetite.
It’s part of a great French tradition that I love – something like pot au feu (beef stew) or seven-hour lamb. It’s almost certainly not Instragrammable, and probably doesn’t look beautiful at all, but you have to share it, and serve it out of a large bowl that you pass around, handing it on to the person next to you.
JA: What do you do in your free time?
CD: I am pretty much obsessed with music. Living in the moment is one of the hardest things to do, and I love that music is one of the few things that really helps you do that. I have played bass guitar since 2007 – it appeals to me that bass is in the background, but it’s an essential part of the group, the rhythm that everybody else plays from.
I taught myself after my boxing coach lent me his guitar. I remember the first songs I learnt were Queen’s “Another One Bites the Dust” and Tracy Chapman’s “Talkin’ Bout A Revolution”.
In another life, I would have loved to be in a rock band. I read lots of biographies of musicians, trying to understand where they get their songs and rhythm from. I also travel a lot for my job, and love that music is universal.
JA: You are in the middle of new building works at the estate. What are the plans?
CD: I do a lot of social media and so get to speak directly with many people who drink our wine, but right now we don’t have the space to welcome people, so this new building work is intended to make that possible.
We want to be able to democratise the Grand Cru Classé wines of St-Emilion; to give a more personal, less intimidating feel to classified wine. It won’t be finished before 2021 but there should be lots of surprises to discover.
See Jane Anson’s Fleur Cardinale tasting notes and scores
You may also like
Closerie Saint Roc: A new cult wine in Bordeaux?Château Rocheyron: The St-Emilion project of Pingus founder Peter SisseckChâteau Quintus: A St-Emilion estate to watchTop 10 Bordeaux 2015 wines
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2016

Perfumed, lifted blueberry, blackcurrant and sweet spice on the nose. Smooth and supple, succulent, almost sweet - like blueberry jam. Mocha and dark chocolate with...
2016
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2015

<p>Still young, knitted down, but the individual strands of tannins are supple and full of life. The wine is really starting to come alive, and...
2015
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2014

Great success in an 'underrated' vintage, with the 100% new oak well integrated, this illustrates the capacity of Fleur Cardinale to excel in less heralded...
2014
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2012

92
<p>This is a little more mellow and balanced than the 2011, and for me much better for it. Full of soft gourmet-edged chocolate with plum, raspberry and blackberry fruits. A tiny bit short through the finish, the fruit is definitely softening, and you can drink this already, especially with a few hours in a carafe. Good quality, giving pleasure already, soft tannins. More Cabernet Franc and a little less Cabernet Sauvignon notable in the blend, in a late harvest year that ran from October 22 to November 3. Yield at 37hl/ha.</p>
2012
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2011

Concentration is clear, with touches of saffron, cinnamon and rosemary spice notes alongside the berry fruits, balanced by a menthol eucalyptus flash through the finish....
2011
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2010

This for me has a better balance than the 2009, same alcohol but here it is effortlessly eaten up by the rich dark fruits, with...
2010
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2009

<p>Plump raspberry and blueberry fruits on the nose alongside liquorice and black chocolate – with some added concentration in the glass from the low yield...
2009
BordeauxFrance
Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
