AOP Chablis 2021: top-scoring wines

TOP VALUE & UNDER THE RADAR The new generation arrived in 2010 with the arrival of David & Arnaud, following on from their father/grand-father. Roland first bottled his own wines in 1979 and the domaine has gone from strength to strength in recent years. Vauprin is a special selection on the hill of Vauprin, situated close to Lignorelles. Vines range from 20-80 years old and the parcel is 1.8ha in size. This AP Chablis is notable for the confident way in which oak is used (up to 50%, ranging from new to five-year-old). Lovely density on the palate allied to purity of fruit. Here, the oak really does add a lot of complexity but the Chablis character is still evident underneath. A very fine Chablis.

Intriguing Chablis from this leading producer, based in Prehy. The kimmeridgian notes really come through here. Lovely concentration on the palate with weight and density. Plenty of acidity to balance the heft on the palate, all supported by a long, mineral finish with a slightly saline edge. Stands out compared to many other Chablis in this tasting. No hurry to drink this - it will improve with further ageing.

Daivissat's Chablis parcel comes from two parcels - the smaller near Beine (0.6ha) and the much larger plot adjacent to Premier Cru Foret (2.5ha). Profound, concentrated, prominent lime/lemon zest on the palate, a touch of honey, confited citrus zest to finish. So long. A profound Chablis.

Droin owns 10ha of AP Chablis. Much more interest here with a deeper hue in the glass and much more interest on the nose. Some greengage on the palate, together with a hint of pear and white peach. Pretty much a benchmark example of what village Chablis should be. Concentration and a lengthy mineral character to finish.

From south-west facing vines in the hills around Lignorelles, the vines were planted in the 1960's and cover 3ha. The wine is fermented in steel tanks, with 60% aged for 10-12 on lees in tank, and 40% in older wood. Doesn't have quite the richness of the Vauprin Chablis but this is still a very fine, pure expression of 2021. Lovely acidity and mineral notes compliment the grapefruit characters and ripe pear fruit on the palate. Complex and classy. No hurry to drink this.

TOP VALUE The Vieilles Vignes cuvée shows a lot more intrigue and concentration than the straight Mosnier Chablis. Fresh acidity, mineral undertones and a dash of zesty grapefruit bitterness all add to the freshness and drive here. A very nice example in 2021. This estate is located in Beine and is now run by the eighth generation of the family, Stéphanie Mosnier. The estate now holds HVE3 certification.

UNDER THE RADAR Tank sample. Plenty to like here with weight and crispness of fruit, allied to a mineral edge on the palate and good acidity. A terroir-driven wine. Plenty of time to enjoy this as it develops. I suspect the finished bottling will be even better than the tank sample.

TOP VALUE & UNDER THE RADAR Intriguing Chablis. The wood (the wine is aged 8-12 months on lees with 10% in used barrels) does add extra depth and complexity to the wine, without it losing any Chablis character. Touch of spice on the finish along with lingering mineral notes. Based in the village of Fleys, the domaine dates back to the late 19th century. The largest holdings are of AP Chablis, and the Vieilles Vignes bottling comes from vines planted in the 1980s and '90s.

Slightly deeper in hue, this Chablis has plenty of depth and concentration on the palate, together with some ripe, stone fruit notes and crisp green apple characters to add freshness. A very supple and generous style, with lingering acidity on the finish. 12 months maturation in stainless steel has added to the wines depth. Plenty to enjoy here. Established in 1902, the estate is now in its fourth generation, with Alain Besson running the domaines with his two children (Camille & Adrien) since 2013. The estate covers just under 8ha.

A special blend, Brocard's Sainte Claire is produced from old vines and certified organic. With an intriguing smoky edge, this is a distinctive Chablis with a bit more volume and weight than the 'straight' Chablis. Six months ageing on lees.

Brocard's Vieilles Vignes Chablis is produced from vines with an average age of 46 years. In addition to ageing on lees the wine spends nine months in large foudres. Deeper in hue but still a very restrained, complex wine with classic mineral Chablis notes underneath.

This is much more mineral on the nose than Brocard's Petit Chablis, with much more concentration. An attractive note of honey along with the crisp apple character makes this a pure, classy AP Chablis to drink whilst young and fresh, or to enjoy with three to four years bottles ageing.

The harvest started 21 September. This is a very fine, precise Chablis showing good density, crystalline citrus notes on the palate, a lick of minerality to finish. The Louis Michel philosophy of aiming to express all the terroir influence is very well shown here.

From two plots on the left bank near Vaillons, Montmains, with just under 1ha. The majority of the vines were plated in the early 2000's, although some are a lot older. The Raveneau Chablis shows very good richness, combined with ripeness of peach and pear fruit, all kept fresh by lingering citric acidity. Ageing in oak has certainly rounded off the corners of 2021's acidity, leaving a glossy, luxurious palate feel with a fine, mineral finish.

William Fevre own 46ha of AP Chablis but there was lots of frost damage in 2021 - the yield was just 18hl/ha! Lovely floral notes here, very precise and focussed. This is already appealing although the acidity is certainly evident. Lingering spice notes on the finish. From a tank sample, with bottling due in November. Drink from next year and for many years.

Domaine Roy is located in Fontenay-Pres-Chablis, to the north-east. Very classic in style, this is a fine Chablis for the 2021 vintage. Not the densest or most concentrated there is plenty of minerality and focus on the palate with a touch of grapefruit/agrumes to balance the pear/apple fruit characters. Drink over the next two to three years.

Crisp, lovely purity here as expected from this classy producer, based in Maligny. Fleshy feel to the palate but the citrus acidity and mineral undertones adding extra complexity and freshness. Very good in this vintage.

Olivier Bailly used some barrel fermentation (and malolactic) for 20% of this alternative blend. From parcels in Chapelot, Morein and Pied d'Aloup. Just the right amount of oak, not overpowering. Clean, bright, touch of zest to finish. Long flavour, powerful acidity.

From the Closerie des Alisiers label, negociant Stephane Brocard has produced this zesty, grippy Chablis from vines over 35 years in age. Crisp, mineral and with plenty of acidity, there is lots for Chablis lovers to enjoy here. Zesty, lingering, flinty finish.

A relatively recent estate, Céline’s father is Jean-Marc Brocard, whilst Frédéric worked at Domaine Durup. They continue to make great strides with their Chablis. Very crisp, classy Chablis with density, purity and a fine mix of acidity, mineral notes, white flowers on the nose and concentrated fruit flavours. Just lacks a little of the power of a more classic vintage but this will be drinking very well from now.