Barolo 2016 & Riserva 2014: Report and 100 wines tasted

The great majority of these wines were tasted blind in January 2020 at the Nebbiolo Prima event in Alba, while others were tasted (non-blind) at the Grandi Langhe event that followed immediately after in Alba.

Others were tasted in London at importers’ tastings. Unfortunately at least one major tasting had to be cancelled because of Coronavirus, so some wines from top producers could not be tasted. And, as always, many estates choose not to pour their wines at tasting events.

Barolo 2016

Very warm weather in early September and October fully ripened the grapes, which remained healthy. Exceptional vintage for Nebbiolo.

5/5

It was obvious a year ago, when the 2016 Barbarescos came on the market, that this was an exceptional vintage for Nebbiolo. Even though the 2015 vintage had been met with acclaim, it seemed to many that the 2016s were even better – an impression confirmed after tasting the 2016 Barolos.

Dozens of excellent wines have had to be omitted from the recommendations that follow simply because there is not space to cover them all. Moreover, one finds the same diversity of styles as in a less homogenous vintage. House styles and vineyard typicity have not been eradicated by the high ripeness levels.

Vintage conditions

After a mild, dry winter, a rainy spring followed which helped to restore the water table. It was not especially warm, so there was little disease. The relatively cool temperatures also slowed the ripening season, and this continued through the summer and well into September.

Quick link: See all 100 Barolo 2016 & Riserva 2014 wines tasted

There was some rainfall, so the summer was not too parched, as rain fell at moderate intervals. Indeed, some rain was beneficial, and constant breezes kept disease at bay. The only fly in the ointment was limited hail damage in some Barolo vineyards such as Cerequio and in La Morra too.

The fine weather brought the grapes to high but not excessive ripeness levels, and the harvest continued at a relaxed pace until mid-October. Vietti in Castiglione Falletto, for example, picked from 6 to 12 October.

However, the weather had been slightly cooler than in 2015 and this made a significant difference, as acidity levels in the Nebbiolo were higher than in the preceding vintage. The vinifications were straightforward, and malolactic fermentation was completed at a leisurely pace. Moreover, alcohol levels were slightly lower than in 2015. There were a handful of flabby, overripe wines but they were very much the exceptions.

Comparisons

Most 2016s have a classic Barolo profile from a great year, and they are both structured and balanced. Vietti observed that even the seed tannins were ripe in 2016, so there was little risk of extracting harshness during the fermentation. In this respect they are comparable to the 2010s, but that vintage had its own specificity. Others compare it to 2013, but overall 2016 is the superior vintage.

Commune performance

As so often during this decade, the wines from Serralunga were often sensational. There were also excellent wines from Monforte, many with a distinctive savoury character. Castiglione Falletto also fared well. But there were some disappointments from Barolo itself, with some soft wines that lacked flair and persistence. La Morra was variable too, but given the size of the commune and its varying elevations, this came as no surprise. As in Barolo, some wines were a touch too soft, while others lacked volume and drive. But of course there were exceptions too.

Ageability

There is no reason to doubt that these wines will age very well. They don’t, I would guess, demand further bottle age in the way that more tannic vintages such as 2006 did. In the past, ferocious tannin levels and astringency meant that many Nebbiolos from top producers had to be cellared in order to become pleasurable. Advances in farming and vinification mean that most wines are accessible at a much younger age these days. But every one of these wines will benefit from a further five years in bottle and it would be a shame to drink the best wines now – their balance, acidity and structure should ensure a long life.

Barolo 2014 Riservas

After a stormy, wet summer, a fine September saved the vintage, although hail did much damage. Some very good wines, but inconsistent.

3/5

2014, as I reported two years ago, was undoubtedly a difficult vintage in Barolo. Wet conditions during the summer led some growers to panic and pick too early, even if for understandable reasons. Many estates did not release any single-vineyard wines but chose to instead blend the grapes so as to produce a generic Barolo of good quality. Others had the courage (or means) to wait until better weather returned in the autumn, as it did, and then pick at higher ripeness levels. So although it won’t count as a great vintage, 2014 did produce some very good wines – but not consistently.

Many of the wines were enjoyable young and overall it did not seem to be a year for lengthy cellaring. That makes it surprising that a few producers did opt to produce Riservas in 2014, requiring longer ageing of the wines in wood that could risk drying out the wines. Of the handful of 2014 Riservas tasted, some were clumsy, and the successes can be counted on the fingers of one hand.

Stephen’s top Barolo 2016 & Barolo Riserva 2014 wines:

See all 100 wines tasted

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