Best Médoc & Haut-Médoc, Moulis & Listrac 2020 wines tasted en primeur

This comes in strong with both grip and attitude. Some austerity that shows through in the abundant tannic frame, but there is a juiciness that runs through the palate, a sense that it is light on its feet. Liquorice, black chocolate and a spiced tomato leaf adds layers, but things close down on the finish. This is certified organic and in biodynamic conversion. A yield of 30hl/ha.

Firm but vibrant tannins, this has the softest smokey oak notes that really line the palate and give the plump black fruits a cushion as they travel through to the finish. Well judged and carefully extracted. 60% new oak. New owners (or rather two new investors, Hindrik Gommer and Arjen Pen, alongside original owner Justin Onclin) as of 2019, and extra vineyards with the addition of part of the excellent Granins Grand Poujeaux. Hubert de Boüard consultant. A value pick.

This has the tight tannins of the vintage with damson and an edge of bitter dark chocolate, but it is a success all the same - confident, succulent, elegant and classic. Philippe Dambrine retires as director of the estate as of this vintage, replaced by Laure Canu from Château Angélus. A yield of 45hl/ha, 40% new oak, 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend.

Raspberry, tobacco leaf and curling woodsmoke notes on the nose, a little severe right now but well constructed and the tannins will soften further over ageing. The elements are there for success, and it has plenty of Haut-Médoc character with its eucalyptus and cedar finish. Classic, old school, with real appeal, and for one of the picks of the appellation in this vintage.

Intense raspberry fruits, chocolate shavings, tobacco leaf and liquorice. Successful overall with rippling muscular tannins and good acidity. Owned by Domaine Bouteiller, this vintage was the last year with Paz Espejo, she has left after 10 years at the helm, her successor had not been announced at time of tasting (although she was château director as well as technical director, and in this Pierre Delage has taken over the role). September 22 to October 7 for the harvest. Eric Boissenot consultant.

Attractive spicy nose, plenty of Médoc character with layers of tannins. There is punch and personality here, and within the vintage it definitely has plenty to offer. Not as much depth as in certain vintages for sure, but this has depth, needs time to soften in the glass. Well made and well balanced with good potential for ageing. Touches of violet on the finish although acidities are pretty high. A yield of 42hl/ha.

Fragrant berry fruit aromatics with charred toast that gives edge to the black fruit, as does the liquorice, black chocolate and rosemary spice through the palate. A fairly modern take overall, but well balanced and it has managed the tannins well. One of the new band of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels.

This is a good wine with rich blackberry and bilberry fruits, good texture, plenty of tannins and Médoc typicity. Needs to soften and open over ageing, but this has promise and is a successful take on the vintage, impressive stuff from one of the new Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels. A yield of 35hl/ha.

This kicks off at a high intensity and manages to deliver both concentration and freshness. Juicy and easy to approach and will easily last 10 years. Has charm and appeal, and a sappy delivery of cassis and bilberry fruits. Oldest vines on this estate are around 100 years old, helping them withstand the drought. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.63pH, 20% new oak.

Good depth of colour to the fruit, deep plum, with attractive fresh fruit aromatics. Confident tannic frame with acidity and black fruits - all the elements to ensure it will age. There isn't the richness of the fruit that you will find in 2016 but it is full of personality and easy to recommend. One of the more successful wines from Moulis in the vintage. Lots of tannins, and a point of bitterness on the close of play that needs to be carefully handled during ageing. A yield of 34hl/ha.

Sappy and muscular black fruits here, you really get the impression that the tannins and colour components in the grapes have been searched for and gently coaxed out. Tobacco leaf and redcurrant aromatics arrive that show the fruits are not as exuberant as in some years, but this has been well handled and carefully balanced. 32% new oak for ageing.

A Merlot-dominant wine makes this unusual for the Médoc, as does the fact the team only releases the wine when ready to drink after a few years ageing in bottle at the property. You see that it suits that style of consumption - with real depth to the tannins, and balanced ripened berry fruits. Good quality. Lacks the easy exuberance of 2018 but this is enjoyable and the balance is particularly impressive when you see the yield is 25hl/ha.

Sappy cassis and cherry fruit, bright and focused, a good fist of tannins lightened up by slate minerality. An impressive sense of momentum. Max de Pourtalès is the owner here - a former Parisian banker who changed career to buy this estate in 1998.

Careful extraction sees a clear tannic frame to give balance and form to the wine without getting in the way of enjoyment, meaning this is a bottle that can easily be opened within the next few years. Silky texture, and the power builds through the palate, as concentrated brambled fruits begin to emerge. A slight bitterness overtakes the final push of the wine, this is spicy, intense and enjoyable. A yield of 40hl/ha. Tasted three times. Cru Bourgeois Supérieur.

Attractive black cherry and damson fruit, enjoyable freshness without forgetting the tannic grip that is entirely in keeping with the vintage. Well balanced placement of fruit and acidities, with a soft landing. Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel located in Le Pian-Médoc.

Gentle coffee smoke on the nose and spiced waves of flavour that add interest and complexity. This is a good wine with gentle acidities and enough autumnal berry fruit to carry it off. Juicy on the finish, this is another successful vintage at Sénéjac.

There is never any Cabernet Sauvignon in Reysson because of the clay-limestone soils, setting it apart from many of its peers in the Médoc. Here you get blackberry and blackcurrant bud, plenty of freshness set alongside grilled clove notes and some sappy almost bristling tannins that give a limestone bite. Not a particularly exuberant face of Merlot but this has real appeal.

Plenty to get hold of here with its layered cassis fruits are deft extraction of colour and tannins. Well balanced overall, juicy on the finish, this has substance and is enjoyable. Marie-Laure Lurton has delivered a wine that sits above the 2019 vintage, which has not proved easy to do in the Médoc this year. Terra Vitis.

One of six Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels in the original 1932 classification, this is one of the largest estates in the appellation. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%), Petit Verdot (6.5%) and Cabernet Franc (2.5%). Herbal, fragrant, ripe black fruit on the nose. Plush, juicy and austere, the combination of chewy fruit, lean acidity and chalky minerality give a wide expression and long finish. I love the cool blue fruit touches, the eucalyptus, liquorice, tobacco and clove freshness and the chalky texture. Elegant, fresh, nuanced and persistent. A great showing for Chasse in 2020. Fun and fruity, this has personality and character, the oak is well integrated and the tannins nicely supportive. Well structured, all in place and delicious now even so young.

As consistent as ever, offering plenty of juicy black fruits, some chewiness on the tannins, with freshness and persistency. Overall a good choice in the category, a value pick as ever. Antoine Medeville's home estate along with his wine consultant partners Edouard Massie and Henri Boyer. When they bought back in 2008 the plantings were 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, changed since to drastically increase Cabernet Sauvignon and add in Petit Verdot.

A good quality Escurac, well-finessed tannins and plenty of dark fruit energy. Not an exuberant vintage here, but a balanced one with a sappy green edge to the tannins which works rather well, as there is no bitterness and gives a savoury Médoc feel. No need to wait too long - less big-shouldered than in some past vintages, surprising as this is a year that has the potential to be deeply concentrated.

Combines plenty of signature Médoc elements - broad shoulders, tannic frame, chewy tannins and plenty of liquorice and cassis fruits. After a couple of years ageing you are going to get a ton of pleasure from this wine. Good stuff and good value also. Vanessa and Réné-Philippe Duboscq owners.

This is excellent, one of the value stars of AOC Médoc in 2020. Plenty of fresh sappy black fruits, autumnal, unfussy with juicy tannins. Easy to approach, a good balance, has Médoc signature without trying too hard, and keeps up the pace from start to finish.

Inky in colour with a firm structure, really standing to attention with the tingle of chewy muscular tannins at the close of play. You're getting well-ripened blackberry and blackcurrant fruits in this, laden with liquorice, cocoa bean and smoke. September 15 to October 1 for the harvest.

Dark plum in colour, this is pretty tannic with a clear frame that is keeping the fruit in play. Fresh acidities, full-on but getting the tone right in terms of delivering Haut-Médoc signature while also delivering a sense of fun and energy.