domaine leflaive, burgundy wine
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With climate change causing uncertaintly and unpredictable weather conditions, each Burgundy harvest is a complex game of luck and tough decisions. Growers strive to find the perfect balance between sugar and phenolic ripeness, but this is becoming an increasingly elusive achievement.

For red wines this has meant increased alcohol levels (Tim Atkins reported on wines up to 20% ABV in 2018!) for white winemaking, Burgundy producers have had to make the sometimes-hard decisions to harvest early and acidify in the cellar. This does mean that terroir expression might sometimes be compromised in favour of a bit more elegance, drinkability and restraint.


See all of Decanter’s white Burgundy reviews


Vintage variation

The 2016 vintage will no doubt be remembered for the devastating frosts combined with mildew as reported by William Kelley.

2017 followed with frosts, and hail contained to Chablis, but very hot temperatures throughout posed the ongoing dilemma of high potential alcohol early in the season not yet met by enough phenolic ripeness. Still, this was a year of good overall quality and yields.

The ripeness/alcohol balance was again the problem in 2018, a vintage that, as Tim Atkin MW pointed out, was not an exceptional year for white Burgundy – indeed you’ll only find one white among the top-scoring line up. The hottest year of the 21st century so far, 2018 is the quintessential ‘climate change’ vintage.

When reporting on the 2018 Burgundy wines, Tim Atkin said that ‘More than ever, it makes sense to follow individual producers rather than villages or vineyards.’ This may well be the inevitable truth going forward: craft, skill and knowledge might be the only answers to the unpredictability of the climate, especially in the most sensitive Burgundian climats.

Needless to say that, with balance and yields becoming an issue while demand increases in both primary and secondary markets, the prices commanded by Burgundy wines are reaching eye-watering levels. But don’t be off-put by the three digits required to get your hands on some of the top-scoring wines.

Immediately below is a companion selection of bottles with slightly lower scores but offering great-value and the possibility of enjoyment without breaking the bank. As highlighted in our recent Chablis value round-up, the northern Burgundy appellation offers particularly good bargain opportunities.

We have also included tasting notes for the top-scoring Burgundy wines to give a multitude of options.

White Burgundy – Value Buys:

Domaine de Bellene, Les Charmes Dessus, Santenay, 2017 – 93 points – £40.35 (Drinks & Co)

Domaine Paul & Marie Jacquesson, Rully 1er Cru Grésigny, 2018 – 92 points – £ 31.95 (Majestic)

Olivier Leflaive, Sous Le Château, St-Romain, 2018 – 92 points – £32.99 (Majestic)

Olivier Leflaive, 1er Cru Montagny, 2018 91 points – £28.99 (Majestic)

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Clos du Four, Mâconnais Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine, 2018 – 93 points – £31.50 (Berry Brothers))

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, En Chatenay, Mâconnais Pouilly-Fuissé, 2018 – 92 points – £22.50 (Justerini & Brooks)

Domaine Barraud, Sur la Roche, Mâconnais Pouilly-Fuissé, 2018 – 94 points – £35.75 (L&S)

Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau, Les Raspillères, Mâconnais Pouilly-Fuissé, 2018 – 93 points – £25.95 (L&S)

Daniel Dampt, 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, Chablis, 2019 – 93 points – £17

Domaine des Malandes, 1er Cru Vau de Vey, Chablis, 2019 – 93 points – £21 (Vinatis)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet,1er Cru Fourchaume – 93 points – £17

*The prices are based on current market availability and correct on date of publishing. For those that have not yet been released, 2018 prices have been used as a benchmark.

After the challenges, to both harvesting the 2020 fruit and tasting the 2019 releases, imposed by Covid-19, one can only wait for 2021 to take stock again of the evolution of the white Burgundy wines we so love.


The best white Burgundy:

Wines scoring 96 points and above. 


Burgundy Top Producers

Domaine Michel Lafarge: Tasting three decades of Clos des Chênes

Behind Burgundy’s boutique micro-négoce: Les Parcellaires de Saulx

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2018

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<p>The very good news for fans of this wine - and that surely includes anyone who has been lucky enough to drink a bottle -...

2018

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Domaine des Comtes LafonMontrachet Grand Cru

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Domaine de la Vougeraie, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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One of the outstanding white wines of the vintage, this comes from a 0.18ha parcel that always seems to produce a brilliant white wine. It's...

2017

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Domaine de la VougeraieChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, Les Preuses Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The Dauvissat holdings touch La Moutonne but make a very different style to the Long-Depaquit wine. Fine, delicate and subtle, this lightly wooded grand cru...

2017

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Vincent DauvissatChablis

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Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis, Blanchot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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The higher part of the Blanchot grand cru gets more sunshine, but this isn't a powerful wine as you might expect. It's elegant and restrained,...

2017

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Domaine François RaveneauChablis

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Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis, Les Clos Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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One of the very best wines of the vintage, as it often is, this is a wine to cellar and cherish. It would be a...

2017

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Domaine François RaveneauChablis

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Domaine d’Eugénie, Les Perclos, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy, France, 2018

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Soft in texture on the attack, but closes in quickly and grips through the palate, with a liquorice, aniseed and rosemary edge , a slate...

2018

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Domaine d’EugénieChassagne-Montrachet

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2018

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<p>Nearly always served last in any tasting at the cellar, this is Pierre-Yves Colin Morey&#39;s most ambitious wine. Marked by limestone soils and its position...

2018

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Pierre-Yves Colin-MoreyChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Domaine Roulot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrières-Dessous, Burgundy, France, 2018

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If you wanted to choose wine that encapsulates all that is special about Jean-Marc Roulot's winemaking style, this would be it in 2018. It's like...

2018

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Domaine RoulotMeursault

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Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, Les Preuses Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2018

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Priced at the same level as Les Clos – and rightly so given its incredible quality – this comes from a 1ha parcel next to...

2018

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Domaine Vincent DauvissatChablis

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Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Unsurprisingly located on the Chassagne side of the grand cru, given that Caroline Lestimé's cellar is situated there too, this is one of the white...

2017

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Domaine Jean-Noël GagnardBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Etienne Sauzet, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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When it's as good as this, Chevalier is every bit as exciting as the more famous and expensive Montrachet. This four-barrel parcel from the highest...

2017

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Etienne SauzetChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Domaine Faiveley, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2017

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Young vines from the Clos des Cortons are assembled with vines from elsewhere on the hill to produce this fresh and citrusy wine that is...

2017

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Domaine FaiveleyCorton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

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Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots, Chablis, Bougros Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2019

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From Fevre's tiny plot on the steepest part of Bougros, Côte de Bouguerots adds even more complexity and drive to a stunning site. There is...

2019

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Domaine William FèvreChablis

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Domaine Marc Colin, Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2016

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While the Bâtard-Montrachet was still digesting some sugar and in no condition to be tasted, the Montrachet was already expressive, clearly ranking as one of...

2016

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Domaine Marc ColinMontrachet Grand Cru

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Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, Les Preuses Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2016

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The Preuses was, appropriately, quite closed when I tasted it, opening in the glass with a reticent but profound bouquet of wet stones, white flowers,...

2016

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Vincent DauvissatChablis

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Ines Salpico
Editor

Ines is Decanter’s regional editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. Born and raised in Lisbon, Portugal, she grew up chasing her grandfather among his vines in Ribatejo and thus her love for all things wine began. After completing her Masters Degree in Architecture, Ines worked as a project manager while writing about wine and doing cellar consulting on the side. After moving to London in 2015, she decided to dedicate herself fully to the wine industry and joined the sommelier team at Michelin-starred Spring, Somerset House. Stints at Noble Rot and The Laughing Heart followed, while completing her WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits. Her work as a judge and writer eventually became her full time commitment and she joined Decanter in 2019 as wine database editor.